Freshwater All Metal Drain Valve Replacement Parts and Pics

Jollyrogers said:
Finally did mine while my son was here to have a 3rd hand. Not much hose to work with behind there. I want some black screws now too. I’d upload a picture but not having
any luck.

The flange was $15 and the little valve was $2. Peace of knowing it isn’t gonna break, priceless.
Which flange and which valve did you use? Thanks.
 
Just got my replacement flange and value. The value won't seat flush against the flange and was wondering if others had the same experience.
 
I completed this upgrade and agree with the previous comments that there isn't much tubing to work with in the camper. Attempting to pull the old value out of the tubing was no happening, so I cut it off. I was then able to work out some tubing to seat the new flange. I was not able to seat the flange completely, but it was well seated, I used the hose clamp and did not have any leaking after it was attached. As I noted previously, I was not able to seat the new valve completely in the flange, but I wrapped some teflon tape around the exposed threads to keep it free of dirt.

Someone had commented that they would just change out the failed plastic value every few years. I cannot imagine having enough tubing to complete another replacement, and it would require either adding tubing or replacing the entire run of tubing.

Thanks for the upgrade tips!
 
I was able to seat the flange but it took 3 or 4 tries at positioning the hose clamp (rotating it) so that the flange would seat and I could use the original mounting screws - there's framing close to the hole on two sides.

I also connected about 10" of hose to drain away from the tailgate, which we keep on the truck.

20200921_1727461.jpg
 
Sandokan said:

Frost -free faucets usually drain back into a structure or down to pipes in the ground below the frost level ...not sure how this would help in a FWC?
 
I can see how if you kept your camper heated, these could help the external drain from freezing. But I am also not sure this is a problem. We camp regularly in freezing weather, and while our (now metal) drain valve may have frozen, it doesn't seem to have damaged anything.

That aside, those fittings do look cool.
 
Wallowa said:
Frost -free faucets usually drain back into a structure or down to pipes in the ground below the frost level ...not sure how this would help in a FWC?
I think, and I could be wrong, that these frost-free faucets simply push the faucet valve back into the protected and warmer envelope of the house to prevent freezing. I don't thin it has anything to do with draining back into a structure or into pipes in the ground.

I'm kind of interested in this product for my Hawk and may consider buying.
 
Bwht4x4 said:
I think, and I could be wrong, that these frost-free faucets simply push the faucet valve back into the protected and warmer envelope of the house to prevent freezing. I don't thin it has anything to do with draining back into a structure or into pipes in the ground.

I'm kind of interested in this product for my Hawk and may consider buying.
yes, I believe it does pull/push down the valve to close it ..the valve is below the frost line or deep enough not freeze.... but that valve is often at the bottom of a delivery pipe several feet high and the water in that pipe drains out at the level of the valve when the valve closes...into soil I believe...hey, I could be wrong...
 
Just installed a “freeze proof silcock” in my cabin, 7200’. Indeed, the valve stop is way back in the extended pipe several inches in length depending on your climate, protected by a warmer temp. The idea is for the unit to be installed with a slight tilt down, back towards the supply line. My process is to turn off the entire supply to the house, which has a stop waste valve 40” underground, and then open the silcock to drain any residual water. Short story made long, I don’t think it’s the solution you’re looking for in a camper but as always, YMMV.
 
I just ordered the parts, figured I'd elaborate on what the latest that's available is. The flange I got was from ebay, there are quite a few available. The one got was USA made from a veteran owned business and was linked previously:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/181845510888?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

flange.JPG

Description:

This Company Is Operated By A 100% Disabled Marine Corps, Combat Engineer Veteran...
This is a very High Quality, RV Fresh Water Supply Drain Valve Flange.
Attention Air Stream Owners!!!
This listing in for one (1) Drain Valve Flange Only...
"The 1/8 NPT Brass Valve Is Not Included In This Listing."
It's pictured only for illustration purposes, but can be purchased at most any automotive parts store, as it's an Eaton 1/8" NPT traditional drain valve, designed for older vehicles.
This is now, only available in anodized black!!!
This product was designed & built by a master machinist that was tired of replacing cheap, imported plastic mass production drain valves, that are designed to fail...They do not stand up to direct sunlight or harsh elements and require continual replacement.

This drain flange is CNC machined from a solid piece of High Quality 6061 T6 Aluminum and is designed to accept 3/8" or 1/2" drain lines, as there is approximately .0075 clearance on each side of the aluminum barbs, for easy insertion and clamping, to the 3/8" or 1/2" poly tubing. And best of all, they are made here in the USA!!! The drain flange was also machined to accept any 1/8 NPT thread drain valve. We suggest brass or a quality valve that will not become brittle and crack, as most cheap drain flanges do...The standard color is anodized black...

The mounting hole spacing, is 1.50" center to center, just as the plastic drain flange is. We advise purchasing the flange in anodized black, as that eliminates the possibility of any possible oxidation down the road.
With proper winterization, this is the last drain valve flange you will ever buy!!!
The valve I got was also linked previously and is a LASCO 17-0939. Available in many different places but I used Amazon.

Lasco site:

https://www.lasco.net/ball-valves-mini-ball-c-17_278_655/cd-14comp-x-18mpt-cp-valve-p-7928

amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYXQO4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


valve.JPG
 
esimmers said:
My solution to the cheap broken plastic drain valve is similar to Gaylon's. I bought the same flange he did on eBay <http://www.ebay.com/itm/181845510888>. It's pricey but well made and the mounting holes are the same as the old valve. When I unscrewed the old valve from the back camper wall I was able to pull out enough of the plastic drain hose to clamp with my little Vise Grips and then install the new flange.

I did get the petcock valve as recommended (see pictures) but have found I like the brass plug better. No worry about breaking it off and water flows out faster than with the petcock. I don't drain the tank often so all in all I like the new setup.

I did the same thing!
 
This setup works perfectly for me. Only sticks out 1.5". Smooth action on ball valve.

DERNORD 1/8 inch Stainless Mini Ball Valve NPT Female x Male Thread SUS316 ($12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCBG1KT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

RV FRESH WATER DRAIN VALVE FLANGE 3/8" or 1/2" WON'T FAIL EVER AGAIN!!! ($23)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WATER-DRAIN-VALVE-FLANGE-3-8-or-1-2-WONT-FAIL-EVER-AGAIN-/181845510888?hash=item2a56d64ae8:m:mrpTvyi5F0dofNjWCDNPYHw&vxp=mtr

(I tried to upload pics, but the limit is 500k per image)
 

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