Full build - Reconstructing a 1981 Grandby into a custom Hawk!

[W6USA]

Looking good! I appreciate the detailed updates, as it's a good way to pick up some build tips for possible later use!

 

[PokyBro]

Hello folks, it's been awhile since I've posted, but I've still been busy on the build. This will mainly focus on building the lift panels. As shown earlier, I built one set with too thick of wood (1/4") birch, which failed to fold completely. Admittedly, I was also trying to get a little more height with the new panels as well (26"), so I altered things a bit, which caused some learning pain.

So that being said, if I were creating new panels, I would stick with exact cuts, and measurements from the original panels. I didn't have much left to work with because they were so rotted, so that's partly why I had a fair amount trouble, but........I stuck with it, and got them done and installed.

I will included quite a few photos on this, and perhaps they will help someone else in the future. I'll make a few comments on what I think are critical areas.

Cutting to length from 48"x96" panel. Mine were 71" width, side to side. Too bulky on a table saw, so I used a skill saw with a guide. Once cut for width, I marked the bottom panel (triangular shape) and carefully free handed the cut with the circular saw, and then sanded the edges to even them up afterwards. I also chose to round the corners for a more custom appearance.




The paneling I used was the same as the inside of the camper, however because the bead board pattern would have to be horizontal, I found some pieces that also had a nice wood pattern on the backside, and after a hearty effort to clean them up with the electric sander, I had a beautiful wood pattern to finish, and match the tone to the inside walls of the camper. I like lacquered finish because it lays flat, and drys quickly. I tried brushing it on, but on second and third coat used a sprayer for an even better finish. I am liking the classic look this wood finish is giving to my build, just my personal taste.






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[PokyBro]

Getting ready to install the hinges. I salvaged three hinges from the original panels, and ordered three new ones from Jeff and Marty at ATC.


For the aluminum center support, I chose make new out 3/4" aluminum stock, cutting a "V" for the two bends, and also a two inch wedge cut where they come to the bottom edge of the panels, as I've seen done on new campers, vs re-using the old gold anodized pieces off the worn out panels I'm replacing. I used an angle grinder with a cut off wheel.





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[wuck]

So, how many rivets . . .



Nice work

 

[PokyBro]

I also added 1/8" flat stock on the backside for increased strength and stiffness. I believe these were used by FWC before the new synthetic panels, and presently at ATC. With the bead board paneling I'm using, I think they are essential. I used 3/16" rivets for the supports, all the rest are 1/8" rivets. I found an air powered pneumatic rivet gun invaluable. With about 100 rivets per panel, my wimpy hands wouldn't have stood up to the abuse!




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[PokyBro]

Ok, so once the panels were assembled, it was time to attached them to the roof, which in my last postings was ready to go with the new ceiling vinyl, slats, fans, and lights. I used the same holes from the original panel on the back. You may recall I added some aluminum sheeting on the front edge, because the rivet holes were too enlarged from the previous owner drilling them out to replace the front panel once before. Well, after I had stretched the headliner material over these plates, the rivets holding them were standing up too prominenty, and would eventually cause rub holes, so I ended up removing them and trying to make the old holes work anyhow. Not my preferred choice, but that was addressed later on.


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[ski3pin]

Well done! Now on to the installation?

 

[PokyBro]

When it came time to attach the panels, there was the issue of flattening the spring loaded hinge, so the rivets could crimp tightly. I had heard one method is to use an ice pick, inserted into an adjacent hole, and forcing the hinge face down so you could get the rivets installed. After giving it some thought, I came up with an alternative method that worked very well when installing the panels with the roof off. I made some three inch metal clips that would simply open the hinge as they slid on, and then when installing the panels, removing the clips as you go.




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[PokyBro]

Next it was time to install the roof. Normally you would just use the original rivet holes on the wall where the hinges we're screwed on before. I added two more rows of aluminum square tubing, so I had to try to just use measurements from the existing holes, transposed directly above them, but remember there's now paneling covering up everything, so that's why the measuring and marking came in. This is where I had some learning pain. Centering the hinges/ panels, and how far down does the hinge go for the attachment point. Oh how I wish I had another camper to compare to, it would have been much easier I think.

There is also an important factor of how these panels come together when folded, so that the roof lies down into place as it should. I never asked the right question, or took the right measurements for cutting the panels to the correct dimensions, even though I tried my best, they looked nice, and seemed to fold equally, top and bottom.
So if anyone is thinking of adjusting the height, here is what I learned. The bottom (triangular) panel base, where it attaches to the wall has to have approximately 1/4" extra when folded over the top panel, to allow for the hinge barrel to fit down on the inside of the wall. This is something you cannot see easily when the whole thing is assembled, and why I could see it in my mind. Here's a picture of what I mean:




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[PokyBro]

So, I ended up having to remove the edge hinges, and trim back the top and bottom of the panels, and then reinstalling the hinges, and then it all worked out nicely. Aren't you glad I'm willing to share my mistakes with you. These are probably not really things thought of at the factory, because I'm guessing most everything is assembled with jigs. I tried asking for measurements the best I could describe over the phone. So that's why this has taken me awhile. In the end, I'm just glad it came together. Thanks goes to Marty for walking me through as much as he could!

Well onto attaching the panels to the wall. I used the clips once again, since the hinges would need to be flattened when attached to the wall. I didn't have extra help to position the roof, so I improvised by using a come-a-long to lower the roof into place, once it was set back onto the camper body, (I did have help for that).




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[PokyBro]

Marty shared one important tip with me for getting the panels evened out side to side, and that was to cut a couple of pieces of plywood to the same exact length, placing them each side and then let the roof drop down and rest on them before you attach the hinges to the wall. This was done first on the back, then repeated on the front.
The next several photos will show these jig boards, and this is after I corrected the panels so they would fold correctly. It cost me about 1 1/2" off of the height I was shooting for, but they still ended p at 25 1/4", and it worked out fine. My inside camper height is about 6' 5".



I also added lift spring studs before attaching the panels.





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[PokyBro]

Last thing for tonight, here is before and after trimming the lift panels to fold properly. Notice the rounded edges are gone on top and bottom of both panels. I wouldn't round those parts of the panels if I were making them again. It made it a little more difficult to center the hinges on the panel lip.




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[hebegebe]

Looks like you have done a proper job. Congrats on becoming the lift panel guru! In your opinion would it be possible to have a window opening ? How much are the new hinges?


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[PokyBro]

Hebegebe, thanks for your your comments. In regards to a window through the lift panels, I don't really see a way to do so as long as they are made wood or composite, and having a hinge running across the width. I'm sure it's been considered many times though. For several people who have made roof lifts out of conduit tubing, perhaps that might be an option?

The hinges I purchased from ATC were $40.00 each, plus shipping.




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[PokyBro]

This weekend, I made a ton of progress, as you'll see. Today, I'll be posting a long thread of photos of the whole process I went through to assemble a side liner, and surprisingly (at least a little to me), I seemed to have gotten it mostly right the first time, which is awesome!

W6USA, provided me with some excellent photos from his FWC Grandby, along with some measurements, that provided some very detailed, up close shots, enabling me to study them carefully, and come up with plans to make my own. (thanks again, Scott!)

Here's one example:




I ordered my materials from Sailrite, which included the following:

5 yards of Shelter-Rite, grey, 18oz vinyl covered polyester (comes in 61" width)
2 yards of clear 18oz clear window material (comes in 54" width I think)
2 yards of Fiberglas reinforced screen material (comes in 61" width)
2 large spools of v92 upholstery thread with uv protection, 1-white and 1-black
2" Velcro loop
2" Velcro hook

You can go to their sight at Sailrite.com, and check it out, the materials are of very high quality, and if you have any questions, they are very patient and willing to answer questions, and help in any way they can. Also on their sight, they have many, many how to videos that were invaluable to me to learn sewing techniques, seams, and assembly process. Thumbs up for Sailrite!

After studying the photos shots I received, and some additional ones I was later able to take, I came up with the following rough plans. The measurements are not exact, but illustrate how I try to get organize before building something, such as wood project.

Alright, here we go. I'll try to keep my commentary to a minimum, and hope that the pictures will be of help and interest to others.




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[PokyBro]

After cutting the pieces to length and the width I would need, as seen above, I measured, and remeasured, and then marked, and laid out the cuts to make for the Windows. A good pair of heavy duty scissors cut through this vinyl material easily, and you can even just slide them along on the lines once you get started. As far as marking the vinyl, you can get a blue marker pen at Walmart or other stores, in the sewing department, that is water soluble. When marking screen and window vinyl, I think a soap stone works best.



I laid the first panel over top the second,face to face, and marked the corners so I could make sure they were in the same place, and then followed up with measuring and marking to be exact. I always measure from the edge of the original material that came off the roll, in order to make sure I was always square from that surface. Speaking of that, I used a tape measure, a metal yard stick, and a builders square, to lay out the pattern for the cuts.



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[PokyBro]

Once the windows were cut, I used seam stick tape, (which is a two sided tape you apply and peal off the paper, essential for this project, obtained from Sailrite), to fold the flaps back into place. Then after cutting the screen material to size, I put another row of seam stick down to hold the screen material in place, then again placed seam stick on top of the screen, then a folded piece of Vinyl for inside the side liner, sandwiching the screen material. And finally, I used seam stick one more time, on top of the vinyl strips to hold the Velcro hook material in place, before taking it to the sewing machine. It is a process, but the final product came out looking much like factory made.




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[PokyBro]

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[PokyBro]

That was pretty much one day's work for me, as I was learning while I was making, and concentrating and being very careful. It was draining to be honest!


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[PokyBro]

Next it was time to make the clear vinyl window, and the privacy window, and attach Velcro loop to them.

Once again seam stick is the way to go. My industrial sewing machine is not a walking foot machine, so this a big part of the reason for so much use of seam stick.

First I carefully measure and laid out the cut patterns on both the materials, assuring they were square and measured correctly, to lay over the previous made panels with screen windows, and velcro'd inside.

The privacy flapped required allowing an extra 1/2" - 1" flap, to fold over, so there isn't a raw edge. It just looks nicer as well.
Seam stick again to fold the flap over, then once more seam stick to hold the Velcro in place. The flat finish of the grey Shelter-Rite goes to the exterrior, so on the privacy flap, the edge folds inside, and then the Velcro attaches over the edge flaps at the sewing machine.





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