Help Me Set Up My Tundra

[rudhawk]

I don't think a FWC on a Miata would corner that well.

 

[doinepicstuff]

Rudhawk,

Congrats on the purchase! I have a 2005 Kestrel (its a hawk made for the shallow bed of the 1st Gen tundra). I ran this on my 2002 tundra and it worked awesome. I had bilstein 5100s w/ BFG all terrains. I went with super spring sumo springs rather than airbags. Simply put its a giant bumpstop. They worked really well and you never had to worry about air leaks etc. Also they are a lot cheaper. Anyways I sold the 2002 tundra and got a 2016. Kind of kicking myself for that but the 1st Gen feels a little underpowered at highway speeds and in the mountains. Feel free to private message me with any questions. I'd start explaining the camper set up but its too long to list... Safe travels.

 

[carld]

I have a 2002 V6 4x4 manual shift Tundra access with 220k miles. I replaced a 2011 Palomino 800 Bronco camper with an 2015 ATC Ocelot with cabinets, fridge and heater. ATC reduce the height to fit my 2002 type 1 Tundra, and increased the soft top by 2" to compensate. I had already added Air Lift air springs, Hellwig EZ-990 Load Leveler helper springs, replaced the back shocks with Bilstein HDs and have LT265/75R16 E tires. Ride wise It works good, side to side stability is good but I have noticed some front to back issues especially on concrete overpasses, maybe I need to replace the front shocks.

As near as I can calculate the camper weighs 950 lbs without water and propane. Those CAT scales seem to be accurate to around +/- 100 lbs, without camper front weighs 2600 lb + back 2000 - gas, extra tools, and add on’s = 4307 (specified curb weight is 4320). With the camper the front weighs 2620 and the back 3120 = 5740 (GVWR = 6000) with gas, water, propane, camping equipment, extra tools, and some food. Add a couple of people and more gear and I’m running about 200 lbs above GVWR.

Milage wise I drive around 65 mph. On the 1700 mile trip to Reno to pick up the camper I averaged 19 mpg and on the 3100 mile way back with the camper I averaged 15.6 mpg. I run about 50 psi in the air springs, and 45 psi front and 50 psi back in the tires.

I find it difficult the get the combination of spring adjustment, air lift pressure and tire pressure. Maybe because I can’t find a level parking spot. In May I’m headed to Alaska for 45 days and 9000 miles so Im making a serious effort to get it right (combination of level and ride), and replace the front shocks.

 

[Vic Harder]

I don't think a FWC on a Miata would corner that well.

LOL, thanks for that!

 

[Lighthawk]

great link. do you lose some clearance with this? hard to tell

My answer is yes. We got stuck in saturated mud a few years ago and as I tried to back up the sway bar was catching on ground, since we were sunk to the axles.

 

[rudhawk]

Ok - Hellwig bar installed. One thing about the installation. Don't be confused by the Hellwig instructions stating the Sway bar arms should be parallel to the ground - that is only if the camper/load is already installed.

Since I don't have a camper as yet, the sway bar arms are in a slightly upswept position and the "hoop" in the bar around the differential is parallel to the ground.

Next on the agenda- Firestone Sport-Rite Air Helper Spring Kit & then, hopefully I'll find a used Fleet or Hawk.

 

[carld]

Got her done, replaced the front shocks with some Bilstein HDs. I ordered the shocks from Amazon and delivered in two days yesterday, just in time for great weather. Put the truck up on jack stands and pulled the old shocks. I noticed that the sway bar ties were looking shabby after 200k I'll replace whatever is easy for $50. I borrowed a strut spring compressor from O'Rely Auto parts, I think they charged me about $5. It really made a difference on the steering stability and the front to back bounce.

 

[rudhawk]

Sounds like you're about ready for that Alaska trip. And with all you've done to the Tundra, we'll expect reports on the various upgrades. I guess the new front shocks are already worth it. Were the old shocks OE with 200K miles ?

 

[carld]

Yes, they didn't look as bad as I expected. In 2005 around 90k Toyota replaced the lower ball joints due to a recall and I also had them do the 90k maintenance. Then in 2012 at 180k the 5th gear was whinging so I had the transmission rebuilt, the clutch replaced, installed a heavy duty alternator, had another 90k maintenance + water pump, belts and hoses. At 180k it was time for the clutch plate. Here a picture of the old shocks and sway bar ties.

 

[Cooter]

Yes, they didn't look as bad as I expected. In 2005 around 90k Toyota replaced the lower ball joints due to a recall and I also had them do the 90k maintenance. Then in 2012 at 180k the 5th gear was whinging so I had the transmission rebuilt, the clutch replaced, installed a heavy duty alternator, had another 90k maintenance + water pump, belts and hoses. At 180k it was time for the clutch plate. Here a picture of the old shocks and sway bar ties.

Who rebuilt your transmission? Did you buy a factory rebuilt like Jasper or have a local shop do the work? I had a Jasper engine and transmission put in a 1987 4WD Suburban back in the 90's but none since and was just wondering what your thoughts on best way to go with rebuilt were today.

 

[carld]

I took it to a local place a friend of mine that works on restoring cars recommended. The local place sent it to Cookson's Transmission City in Dallas to rebuild. Total cost with a new clutch was around $1200.

 

[Laguna-to-Crestone]

The information here is spot-on for my needs and very helpful for suspension set-up decisions. I hope I'm not hijacking the thread, but I have a related question: I have placed my order for an ATC Ocelot and I'm now searching for a first generation Tundra to put it on. I've picked the Tundra because of a desire to have the smallest, most inconspicuous, truck that will be hardy enough to handle the camper. (We're tent campers in transition...) I'm going AWD mostly to prepare for some snow and will be off-road only rarely and - unless I goof - in easy conditions - almost all driving will be on highway. My question: Given my usage, is there a real advantage for me to go with the TRD Off-Road Package or will I be just as happy with a standard SR5 or Limited. In other words, is the added height of the Off-Road package of value for my kind of driving? I appreciate your thoughts.

 

[billharr]

The information here is spot-on for my needs and very helpful for suspension set-up decisions. I hope I'm not hijacking the thread, but I have a related question: I have placed my order for an ATC Ocelot and I'm now searching for a first generation Tundra to put it on. I've picked the Tundra because of a desire to have the smallest, most inconspicuous, truck that will be hardy enough to handle the camper. (We're tent campers in transition...) I'm going AWD mostly to prepare for some snow and will be off-road only rarely and - unless I goof - in easy conditions - almost all driving will be on highway. My question: Given my usage, is there a real advantage for me to go with the TRD Off-Road Package or will I be just as happy with a standard SR5 or Limited. In other words, is the added height of the Off-Road package of value for my kind of driving? I appreciate your thoughts.

I have a 2005 TRD Tundra AC. Not much on the TRD package you can not add later if needed, shocks etc. I would look for low milage and good condition. I bought new for my Tundra, just hit 70K miles and 16K are on two trips. I wish I would have got a double cab limited when I purchased. I want the full 4 door for the grandkids now and would like the extras that come with the Limited package. Next truck will be a 3/4 ton crew cab, looks like a Chevy. I just wish Toyota would make a 3/4 ton crew cab.

 

[DonC]

I have a 2006 Tundra AC TRD 4 x 4 and my camper is on full-time. Does anyone have this truck without their camper on that can measure the height at the top of the wheel well?

I am getting custom Deaver Springs made so I am not so dependent on airbags, and need to know the stock height.

I can put my jacks on and lift the camper to measure, put was hoping someone here might have this same truck with camper off.

 

[rudhawk]

Luguna - In March I bought my '04 Limited - Access cab 2WD all Leather & power everything & only 66K orig miles. I specifically stayed away from 4WD because 2WD gave me more payload. Also, with 4WD there are more components to break, less efficiency & if I had it, I would probably go where I have no business going. But see, this thinking goes back to the 60's-70's. With these Toyotas you can't go wrong either way. Look for '04-'06. 2004 have all the needed fixes like brakes. In 2005 they added variable valve timing which gave them a 30-40 hp boost. I have the access cab with a shallower bed (17" siderails). I think the bed on the dbl cab is deeper than mine.

It's funny this post was revived today - I just came in from the garage after installing the RideRite's.

I couldn't position the air valve near the license plate like I wanted - but the holes were already in the fender well ahead of the tire so (I like easy - can you tell).

Now I just need a used hawk or fleet to put these improvements to use!

 

[Laguna-to-Crestone]

I have a 2005 TRD Tundra AC. Not much on the TRD package you can not add later if needed, shocks etc. I would look for low milage and good condition. I bought new for my Tundra, just hit 70K miles and 16K are on two trips. I wish I would have got a double cab limited when I purchased. I want the full 4 door for the grandkids now and would like the extras that come with the Limited package. Next truck will be a 3/4 ton crew cab, looks like a Chevy. I just wish Toyota would make a 3/4 ton crew cab.

It sounds like you have what I'm looking for. I have a little time before the folks at ATC need to start building so I can be patient. I appreciate the input from all - keep it coming.

 

[carld]

Good look finding a first gen. Tundra. I love mine, because its an manual shift 5 speed 4x4 V6. They just didn't make many. Never did go for the automatic. I've taken it on some serious roads with the camper and suffered for it, but hay, there is nothing that can't be repaired.

 

[la_morris]

I am not knowledgable about cars or trucks but have been trying to understand some basics. I want to order a Fleet for either a first generation 05-06 Tundra or later model Tacoma. I plan to go on forest service roads and unimproved roads, but not off-road. Can I get by without 4WD? Would the Tundra perform better than the Tacoma with 2WD? Can using all terrain tires compensate for not having 4WD? I appreciate all the expertise shared here.

 

[DonC]

Although I seldom go on 4x4 roads I do a lot of dirt road driving in Death Valley and other areas. Even so, I like having 4WD as 90% of the time I am by myself and having the 4WD gives me a level of comfort when I'm way out there. Sometimes pulling off the road to park, or turning around, can get you into sand or other situations where putting it into 4WD for 5 minutes makes it a non-issue. You never know what you are going to run into on seldom traveled roads even if not classified as 4x4.

I have a 2006 Tundra TRD 4WD and really like it. I think the newer Tacoma's have similar hp, so either would be great. Even though I had the Tundra, I went with a Fleet not a Hawk, because when the 06 Tundra goes (only 60k miles), or it gets in an accident, I won't go bigger, so I wanted a camper that would fit a Tacoma in the future.

At the time I bought my Fleet in 2012, the owner of FWC (Tom) was driving a first gen Tundra and had a Fleet on it, and he liked that set-up too.

 

[Laguna-to-Crestone]

I picked up a 2006 Tundra with Off-Road package yesterday and will be putting ATC Ocelot on it later this summer. My reason for going 4WD was mainly for dealing with snow or slippery conditions. My experience with a 1999 Tacoma 2WD Pre-Runner was pretty miserable in those conditions.


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