Incident at Battle Creek!

I don't think so...

Honestly, as I've never been seriously stuck before (well, I've slid into a snowy ditch in my car, but that's different)...and because I'd rather turn back on a snowy road than find out the depth at which I get stuck, I've never had the need to understand exactly how power is apportioned between my truck's 4 wheels when slipping is happening (in snow, mud, etc.). It's just worked, adequately for me...until now.


With open differentials the power goes to the one with the least amount of traction so if someone has both diffs that way even with 4 wheel you're only putting power down with 2 tires sometimes. However with one being up front and one in the back that often can work out of many situations. Limited slip in the rear should be able to massage things into having 3 wheels putting down power which is even better (keep the parking brake suggestion in your head to try IF you ever need to, couldn't hurt - just don't fully seat it or spin the wheels excessively with it partially engaged) If you weren't hung up on the frame (or other suspension/drivetrain component) it seems like the truck would have been able to rocks some and climb out in 4 wheel.
 
Super Great Thread Mark!

I sure wish I could have been there as your wing man.....having another rig could have saved you the rancher experience.

Of all the options presented as possible solutions for this dilemma, the MaxTrax are probably the best solution. With 4 of those you can literally walk yourself out of almost anything 2 feet at a time. Next best might be the High lift jack. Only problem with this is you need a tone of wood to build a good enough platform to keep it from sinking in the muck and it only really works for one corner of the rig at a time. 3 tires stuck and the jack won't help much. A winch is nice, but only if you have a solid point to pull on. Out there a winch could be useless. Even a deadman anchor would be tough if the ground is frozen.

So, Mark, when are going to invest in a Spot locator. I mean, it could have been worse. Like you fracture a leg while trying to get the truck unstuck. Now what? Like having you around to explore with, know what I mean?

Home Skillet
 
Good points Home Skillet. Can be very sketchy traveling alone but a lot of us enjoy it or just do the trips out of necessity sometimes out of convenience. Have considered the Spot myself.
 
Having read and digested the thread so far, I have five thoughts:

1. Mark, you're not an idiot. You're just not omniscient. This was the "perfect storm" of mudholes.
2. I am not sure it would have been possible to bury a deadman by digging in frozen ground.
3. (From previous experience) If you had waited until morning you might have been able to drive out, or come up with a better solution, but more likely you would have been frozen in place. I know because I know.
4. The high lift jack I own is only rated for 4,660 lbs. and it's b*tchin' hard to jack that much. I use my jack frequently in non-emergency (construction) situations, and would consider it a method of last resort.
5. As we get older, we have also to be concerned about death from overexertion. Just sayin' ...
 
Well, well, well, here's something I've got some experience dealing with! I spent the better part of 4 years in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina while earning a geology degree from Appalachian State University and followed that with 6 years of field work on mineral exploration and drilling crews, mostly in Louisiana, Mississippi, Michigan's Upper Peninsula, and the Piedmont of Virginia, NC, SC, and GA. In short, I've seen some mud, and I've spent beaucoups time digging trucks out of it. I've also dealt with a lot of sand during my dozen years of annual surf-fishing trips to the Outer Banks of NC.

Mark- our Ford Superduty OEM limited slip units are notoriously short-lived. I doubt yours is working. A rear diff service including the correct amount of LS additive might renew it but it might not. Mine's a goner, failing to work properly both before and after my last rear end fluid + additive change.

The "feathering the brake" trick works amazingly well. It's tough to finesse with a manual gearbox, however, so you run a chance of smoking your clutch. Ask me how I know that one.

You already carry one (or two) of the best possible "dead men", you spare tire(s). You're darn tootin' it's a lot of work to bury it.

Don't laugh, but a "Danforth style" boat anchor makes a GREAT deadman and it's much easier to excavate a hole for a Danforth anchor than for a spare tire. Might look a little funny Wandering the West with a boat anchor affixed to your brushguard, however. Get one suitable for a 24 to 27' boat and that will be fine for a fullsize truck, and there's even a hole in the shank for a D-ring.

A winch is super-handy once you have an attachment point, but the other 99.99999% of the time you're lugging around a lot of weight for no benefit. A good option is a high-capacity come-along with a snatch block. My come-along is rated for 4,000 lbs which I can double with the snatch block. The fact that a Superduty w/ a FWC is more like 9,000 lbs is not critical, as you're not trying to lift the truck off the ground, so even stuck, you're trying to accomplish much less of a lift than your truck's weight. Mine has 50' of 3/16" cable and I keep a chain and a couple of nylon snatch straps on board. Guys who hard-core the 4-wheeling and get stuck a lot need a winch. Guys who get stuck only ever 115,000 miles don't, but a come-along doesn't weigh a lot nor does it take up much space, and it comes in pretty handy around the ranch, no matter how modest said ranch is.

I don't think my high-speed scan of this thread caught any mention of airing down your tires--did you air down before or during the extrication process? Probably would have helped, and possibly a lot. I've given up on the "jumpstart battery w/ air compressors" after burning up 3 of them. I picked up a 100% duty cycle compressor from 4-wheel Parts and it re-pressurizes my 4 tires within minutes, making me entirely quick to air-down whenever the need arises.

Now for my own "getting stuck solo" story: I was driving the beach on Hatteras Island, the Outer Banks, in November 1990. By myself due to the sudden illness of my fishing buddy's Mom. Beginning or a nor'easter blowing, spitting a cold rain pushed by 15-20 knot winds. Low tide. Hadn't seen another beach buggy for an hour. The soft sand above the high tide line was a bitch to drive--coarse and heavily-rutted. The smooth sand below the high-tide line was SO inviting. Against my better judgement, down on the smooth hardpack I went. Everything was fine for a few minutes--I had the Trooper tires aired down to around 20 psi and that normally gave me very good grip. But the ground got softer and the truck started "cheating" downslope towards the Atlantic. No problem, just a quick downshift to 3rd (low range). Hmmm, still cheating, so quickly down to 2nd and a gentle left turn. Oh, crap, now she's REALLY cheating, and now I'm > halfway down the slope (still pointed perpendicular to the water, mind you, but the "cheating" was the downhill creep). So, threw her into Neutral and she stopped quickly, but without spinning her in. Got out, grabbed my short-handled spade shovel, measured the exact distance between the outside of my tires, and dug 2 shallow trenches in a gently curving upslope direction, all the way to above the high tide line, about 150', making sure to keep the trenches exactly the track width of the Trooper. Stomped up and down the trenches to pack down the coarse, pebbly sand as much as I could. Returned to the truck and dug forward from the rears to the front tires, packing that as best as I could. Aired all 4 tires down to 12 psi, as low as I dared, and still fearful I'd pop a bead. Unloaded a fair amount of my surf-fishing gear and walked it up the hill to above the tide line. Fired up the truck, let her warm up (all of this took over an hour), put her in 3rd gear (low range), and gently started letting the clutch out. She immediately moved forward and I was able to let the clutch out all the way within a couple of wheelbase lengths. Never spun a wheel all the way out. The waves were starting to wash over the tracks where the truck had been by the time I got turned around and finished re-loading the gear into the truck. She'd have been completely under water soon if not for the dig-out. The lesson I'd learned long before is that sometimes you have ONE CLEAR SHOT at self-rescue, so best to make it your BEST SHOT.

Glad to hear you're getting out and about even during these short days. I'm totally envious.

Foy
 
A friend sent me a link...
Anybody know anything about these?:
MaxTrax


First off, thanks for getting stuck and starting this thread, Mark. I'm learning a few things about recovery.

I've personally been stuck in sand twice. Both times many, many years ago. Once on a river bank, where recovery was easy with another vehicle's winch. The second time was in Panamint Valley where we tried going over a sand-drifted section of road in a sedan (oops. We were stupid college kids). After two hours of digging and laying down brush, we got out. Lately, most of my traveling is on forest service roads and I'm a lot more cautious now, so haven't been stuck in a long while. If a road starts looking beyond my comfort zone, I park and take a hike rather than drive. BUT, I fully realize that I could get stuck in something that looks okay, but isn't, like that silty creek bottom you encountered. So, I really appreciate everyone's ideas here.

Has anyone tried a makeshift MaxTrax? A lot of us carry boards and tire chains. What if you wrapped the chains around boards and set them down like MaxTrax? Might be easier than trying to get chains on when your tires are sunk deep, but I don't know if the chains could be set up so they wouldn't slip. Any experience here with something like this?
 
A friend sent me a link...
Anybody know anything about these?:
MaxTrax


The MaxTrax devices remind me of the extensive reading I've enjoyed which tells the tale of probably the ultimate in WTW-style expeditionary adventuring, that being the accomplishments and exploits of the Long Range Desert Group during World War II. Starting in the 1920s, a group of around a dozen British Army officers stationed in Egypt started exploring the Libyan Desert while on leave, as a hobby, venturing into an area the size of the Indian Subcontinent in Model A Fords. They used nautical navigation methods to map their travels and perfected vehicle recovery methods including rope ladders (w/ bamboo cross-pieces) and "sand mats". The former could be rolled up and easily stored, then unrolled in front of stuck wheels enabling some grip, and the latter consisting of corrugated steel roof panels cut into strips with the ridges in the long direction strip, and hung racks on the side of the Model A until needed.

The Great Sand Sea and adjacent parts of the Libyan desert had not been penetrated for some 5,000 years, ever since the climate changes which desertified what had been a great savannah began. The central portions were too far from the various oases and springs for camel travel, which was generally limited to around 200 miles between water points.

The LRDG ran Chevy 1-ton rated TWO-WHEEL DRIVE pickup trucks during most of their missions from Egypt to Tunisia and south to the Sudan and southwest to Chad in the late 1940 through late 1943 service period. Their greatest accomplishments were continuous "Road Watches" hundreds of miles behind the lines at Tobruk and El Alamein, where they counted the various truck and armored vehicles headed east and west along the Coast Road between Rommel's ports and the Egyptian border, a hazardous exercise which enabled nightly radio reporting of troop and armor movements to Montgomery and his predecessors. The Chevys were clad with "wide desert tyres" which were 10.50 x 16" Goodyears. They'd strip the trucks of all excess sheet metal, including cutting off the cab's top, in order to preserve carrying capacity for fuel, water, food, weapons, and ammunition. There were Marmon-Herrington 4WD V8 Ford trucks available, and they ran some of them, but the weight of the 4WD apparatus and the fuel consumption of the V8s were such that the 4WD Fords consumed twice the fuel of the 2WD straight six-cylinder Chevys, so thousand mile missions without resupply required that they use the Chevys. The forces, mostly made up of New Zealanders and Rhodesian enlisted men led by British officers, who themselves were the core of the group who'd explored the desert as a hobby a decade or more before. The New Zealanders and Rhodesians were mostly farmers and ranchers who adapted quickly and well to running trucks across the desert.

In the 1960s the exploits of the LRDG were "captured" by American television and fictionalized as "The Rat Patrol", while more recently the Hungarian desert explorer-come-German spy fighting against the LRDG, the "Count" Almasy, was fictionalized in "The English Patient".

Anybody interested in desert exploration today would likely enjoy reading "Long Range Desert Group" by William Kennedy Shaw, who was the Group Intelligence Officer during the war, and/or "The Lost Oasis" by Saul Kelly, the latter being a more expansive treatment of exploration of the Libyan Desert going back into the 19th century and culminating with treatment of the LRDG's work. Those guys were BOLD, no doubt about it.

Foy
 
The hi-lift http://www.hi-lift.com/ will raise the wheel above the dirt, so you can back fill/shove whatever under the wheel and drive out.

Throw the spare wheel on the ground, put the jack on top and try to sink that! You can raise your tire 12" off the ground.

WARNING: you need the adapter http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/bumper-lift.html to use with a stock bumper.

The hitch receiver makes a good jack point. I have them front and rear.

Also, a few Benjamin's tucked away in the wallet is always comforting.

Gittin' stuck just adds to the adventure!!
 
I carry a come-a-long and some non-stretch marine braid line (rope to landlubbers).

I carry a small Danforth anchor, but it's only good IMO in flat surface sand areas. Works just like it does on a sandy ocean floor, get it started and it digs in great. Directional pull only, not good at holding at much of an angle off the original set, but that's OK with pulling out a truck.

If I'm in a hole with some wheels and there is good solid dirt within reach and without a bunch of under surface rocks, then I'll use an adaption from the local search & rescue group... a triangular multipoint anchor system, using some rebar and line. Rebar is easy to pound into almost any dirt, use the line to anchor them together (search the internet for the details of the technique) and the whole assembly is pretty solid. Attach the come-a-long to the the lowest point on the forward anchor point and roll the vehicle forward or backward out of the hole. Easy to build up and tear down, and light weight, to boot.

I've also got two tow straps that are attached together in the middle to form an "X", so if I can find a large enough boulder (i.e., heavy and stable) close by, the "X" goes on the back side and then the two staps stays in place when I thighten up the come-a-long. And, the two straps can be used as a nice strong tow strap with double the strength. Idea from "back in the day" with my early Bronco from watching the Jeep guys. Also works for large tree as an anchor point.

Maybe $100 total cost... come-a-long (new), marine braid line (new, replace every 5 years) and tow straps (new, replace every 5 years).
The rest is from long ago... Danforth anchor (from the Catalina 16), rebar (from the shed), and small sledge (from my Dad).

Works for me, however, may not be anyone else's cup of tea.
I have a Ford Ranger (with dents on the outside of the truck bed from where I've been stuck, before getting the camper), and the light weight does make a difference.
 
I carry a come-a-long and some non-stretch marine braid line (rope to landlubbers).

I carry a small Danforth anchor, but it's only good IMO in flat surface sand areas. Works just like it does on a sandy ocean floor, get it started and it digs in great. Directional pull only, not good at holding at much of an angle off the original set, but that's OK with pulling out a truck.

If I'm in a hole with some wheels and there is good solid dirt within reach and without a bunch of under surface rocks, then I'll use an adaption from the local search & rescue group... a triangular multipoint anchor system, using some rebar and line. Rebar is easy to pound into almost any dirt, use the line to anchor them together (search the internet for the details of the technique) and the whole assembly is pretty solid. Attach the come-a-long to the the lowest point on the forward anchor point and roll the vehicle forward or backward out of the hole. Easy to build up and tear down, and light weight, to boot.

I've also got two tow straps that are attached together in the middle to form an "X", so if I can find a large enough boulder (i.e., heavy and stable) close by, the "X" goes on the back side and then the two staps stays in place when I thighten up the come-a-long. And, the two straps can be used as a nice strong tow strap with double the strength. Idea from "back in the day" with my early Bronco from watching the Jeep guys. Also works for large tree as an anchor point.

Maybe $100 total cost... come-a-long (new), marine braid line (new, replace every 5 years) and tow straps (new, replace every 5 years).
The rest is from long ago... Danforth anchor (from the Catalina 16), rebar (from the shed), and small sledge (from my Dad).

Works for me, however, may not be anyone else's cup of tea.
I have a Ford Ranger (with dents on the outside of the truck bed from where I've been stuck, before getting the camper), and the light weight does make a difference.


What he said :)
Seriously, can we get some links to the best self-recovery systems?
Seems like a come-along, high-lift and quality straps are required.

What's the rating for marine braid, Alley-kat?
 
Waffle boards are another version of maxtrax:
http://www.okoffroad.com/stuff-waffleboards.htm

In reality if you can get some cutoffs from a FRP grating installer you might be able to get a set for cheap...
 
Another thing that is needed are solid attachment points on each end of your vehicle. Pulling on a ball hitch, bumper or suspension component can lead to disaster when your buried to the axles. I've come across many people stuck in the dunes and have cut straps and ripped off their bumpers trying to get them out. A snatch strap that comes loose or breaks can be deadly.
 
Waffle boards are another version of maxtrax:


I had a pair of waffle boards that I carried for a few years. Then one time I used them to help recover a friends vehicle, I was amazed that his tires just spun on them. They were a bit usless for driving up out of a tire spun hole.

I now realize that you need something knobby like the maxtrax to get traction and get unstuck.
 
I had a pair of waffle boards that I carried for a few years. Then one time I used them to help recover a friends vehicle, I was amazed that his tires just spun on them. They were a bit usless for driving up out of a tire spun hole.

I now realize that you need something knobby like the maxtrax to get traction and get unstuck.


Really? The FRP grating I've walked on in industrial applications (which is basically this stuff) is fairly rough.
 
Really? The FRP grating I've walked on in industrial applications (which is basically this stuff) is fairly rough.


Yeah, I was really surprised. Of course the situation could have played a part in them not working as I expected.

But I immediately understood why the Maxtrax have those horrible spikes on them. You need to have something that will grip into the tires tread, not just a surface to spin the tire on.
 
What's the rating for marine braid, Alley-kat?



I use 1/2" braid, 6 pieces, each 4' long at a breaking strength of about 8,000 lbs (static) to tie the triangular multipoint anchor system together. Then I have 5/8" braid, 2 pieces, each 10' long at a breaking strength of about 13,500 lbs (static) with one line attached to the forward point of the anchor system, the come-a-long in the middle and the other 5/8" line attached to the truck.

I don't get the fancy color stuff, just pain old white at my wholesale marine outlet supplier in another city. I think white is easier to see when the line is wearing and needs replacement.

I'd say go bigger for a full size truck, however how much bigger, I'm not sure. Maybe one size up, maybe more.

Probably need to increase the diameter of the rebar, too. I use 1/2" diameter.

I think climbing rope is about the same static breaking strength, however, the only number I remember is for the 11mm (almost a 1/2") at about 7,600, again static.
 
Yeah, I was really surprised. Of course the situation could have played a part in them not working as I expected.

But I immediately understood why the Maxtrax have those horrible spikes on them. You need to have something that will grip into the tires tread, not just a surface to spin the tire on.


What kind of tires did your friend have?

I think climbing rope is about the same static breaking strength, however, the only number I remember is for the 11mm (almost a 1/2") at about 7,600, again static.


True climbing rope is dynamic, you wouldn't want to use that. The do make "static" ropes that look similar which is for rappelling and such.
 
Those max trax are nice. Pricey though. I will accept them as a christmas gift.

One thing to remember after playing in mud or water. Check your vital fluids (diffs, trans case etc, not your beer supply). I once had water enter my rear diff and completely destroy it because I never checked it. Many years ago, twas a painful lesson to learn.
 

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