Isotherm Refrigerator in New FWC

[Zirdu]

I wasn't sure what kind of fridge I was getting in my new Grandby, ordered a few weeks ago. After reading stories on high amp usage and no venting on some refrigerators, I was concerned. Here is what my dealer (SLC) tells me. Sounds like a much improved fridge, and I am not too concerned about having enough solar to power it now. My current set up is a small Engle fridge using I think 1.9 Amp, and a 120 W panel, which has been plenty in the South West for several years. I am thinking of going to 200 W solar. I could always add more later.





3. What is the make and model of the Refrigerator I am getting? It says 85 L unit, but that is all I know. I am trying to figure the amp usage for planning my solar addition.




​
The fridge that you ordered is a Isotherm CR85EL, made by Indel Webasto Marine. It has a ​Danfoss compressor that uses roughly 2.5 Amps when running. Their site lists the average consumption at 368W/24hours. I am not sure how that number has been calculated. Keep in mind that it is consumption while running, and how much it runs is a matter of conditions. Summer in Death Valley is much different than fall in the Rocky Mountains. Here is the link to this fridge website page.

http://www.indelwebastomarine.com/int/products/fridges-freezers/cruise-marine-refrigerators/medium-fridges-65-85-l/cruise-85-elegance/





4. Is the refrigerator vented to the outside? I hope so, as I installed an Engle in my current camper and it was vented inside, which I didn’t like so I modified it to vent out the existing vents for the 3-way fridge which I removed.






​Yes, all fridges have 2 vent panels on the outside of the camper. An upper vent, and lower vent, directly behind the fridge.​

 

[Timothy McGowen]

I have the Isotherm 130L in my new Hawk. I have dual on board batteries with the 160w solar panel.

I live in Southern California and have taken a four day trip to Utah around the 10,000+ foot level.

Mine will run on high with no problem. I ran it probably about a week at home before the trip. On the trip I turned it down (temperature up) a couple clicks just to have it not run so much at night.

It passed my test - ice cream sandwiches in the freezer.

The nice thing is it runs very quiet.

 

[Vic Harder]

Looking at getting a fridge for my shell. How did you guys decide what size to get? And Tim, can you actually freeze anything in the freezer compartment? Advertising blurb I saw says no, just keep stuff frozen.

 

[longhorn1]

Our 2014 Grandby has the Dometic 80L and we place unfrozen items in and they freeze, ice cream actually needs to sit for 5 minutes to get the scoop in. Never had a problem. jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app

 

[Cayuse]

Looking at getting a fridge for my shell. How did you guys decide what size to get? And Tim, can you actually freeze anything in the freezer compartment? Advertising blurb I saw says no, just keep stuff frozen.

Isotherm Cruise 65 makes ice and I've put meat in it and frozen it without a problem when plans changed, I run a remote temp sensor and my fridge temp typically registers mid 30's and freezer in the single digits but there is a bit of variation from time to time,

Biggest problem is that I got the 65 which was a direct fit for the original 3-way, will replace it with a larger one at some point, the 90 with separate freezer compartment looks interesting but I'll probably end up with the 130.

 

[Stalking Light]

I freeze things in my Dometic 65 as well, but I understand the Isotherm is much more efficient that the Dometic, which is why FWC switched brands.

 

[cdbrow1]

I have the Dometic 80 in my 2015 Hawk and am very happy with it. Freezes stuff with no problems. Two vents and a fan on the compressor.

I also have 2 Dometic stand alone compressor fridges that are left over from my pre-FWC days. They have digital controls and can be set does to single digits (F). They will freeze a water bottle solid in about 3 hours.

Good stuff.

They are power hogs and I hear the new ones are better.

 

[Vic Harder]

good to know that you can freeze stuff in these units. Balancing size/capacity/power usage/noise/convenience ... quite the juggling act!

Boss lady wants a fridge/freezer for veggies/meats. I want room for beer, meat and veggies... in that order

Any thoughts on TruckFridge vs Indel/Webasto? Both made by the same firm, but supposedly not the same quality, according to Indel/Webasto?

Noise levels on Indel/TF vs Dometic vs Engel?

 

[Lighthawk]

Anyone familiar with swapping the 3-way for a compressor type refer?
Our NorCold is No Cold (stole that from someone here) and I've ordered a Dometic 65L.

The wiring for the old fridge has a 15A breaker, and two decent gauge wires that were for the 12V operation.
My question is, will that be sufficient for the 5.5A Dometic or do I need to do some wiring to install the new unit?

 

[97grandby]

Anyone familiar with swapping the 3-way for a compressor type refer?
Our NorCold is No Cold (stole that from someone here) and I've ordered a Dometic 65L.

The wiring for the old fridge has a 15A breaker, and two decent gauge wires that were for the 12V operation.
My question is, will that be sufficient for the 5.5A Dometic or do I need to do some wiring to install the new unit?

I went from an Ice Box to the same Dometic 65L. I used the wiring that was back there at first and I was having all kinds of issues. At first I think that is also due to the fact I had no venting. So all in the same weekend, I added a dedicated 10 gauge wire kit from the battery to the fridge added a 4x12 vent at the top along with a computer fan (3.5inches) and all my problems of dead batteries and not keeping the fridge cold stopped at once. I'm guessing the venting was by in large the biggest issue, which you shouldn't have as I'm sure you already have venting. However, I like to do it once, so I don't have to do it over. I would run a dedicated solid 10awg wire (on a fuse of course) when you swap out everything and enjoy your new fridge.

 

[Cayuse]

Anyone familiar with swapping the 3-way for a compressor type refer?
Our NorCold is No Cold (stole that from someone here) and I've ordered a Dometic 65L.

The wiring for the old fridge has a 15A breaker, and two decent gauge wires that were for the 12V operation.
My question is, will that be sufficient for the 5.5A Dometic or do I need to do some wiring to install the new unit?

I just hooked my Isotherm into the wires that were already there for my 3-way and have lived happily ever after (touch wood).

 

[Timothy McGowen]

Looking at getting a fridge for my shell. How did you guys decide what size to get? And Tim, can you actually freeze anything in the freezer compartment? Advertising blurb I saw says no, just keep stuff frozen.

I made ice cubes but to be honest I'm not sure how long it took to freeze the water in the minature ice cube tray provided.

I just went for the largest as I plan to be on the road for long trips.

 

[SCUD]

Do the Isotherm units as installed by 4WC have the Isotherm Smart Energy Control kit?


http://www.isotherm-parts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_19_44&products_id=2107&zenid=65fd41eee1c1149948dc7392e6a90f28


http://www.isotherm-parts.com/PDF/spec_sheets/Isotherm_Smart_Energy_Control_Kit.pdf

 

[kifo4173]

I have the new 130L Isotherm as well. Does anyone have problems with the door not closing completely? I haven't done the dollar bill test, but on the side opposite the hinge I can see the fridge light shining through almost constantly. Not particularly concerned about this LED battery usage, but surely there is a ton of lost energy resulting from the gap.

Any ideas how to adjust the closure mechanism or how this would be addressed? Mind that the latch is centered on the Isotherm, and doesn't hold 'tension'; it simply latches the door. I've seen the previous posts on adjusting a latch on the Dometic where it is placed opposite the hinge-this won't work here.

Other than that-great fridge. REALLY quiet-impossible to even begin to talk about noise with the compressor running. Gets to and holds temperature well. Freezer ices over/builds up ice around the box in warm/humid climates when the fridge is often open, but nonetheless makes ice and keeps items frozen.

 

[Zirdu]

I don,t know if FWC includes Isotherm Smart Energy Control option in fridges it installs in new campers. Probably not. I saw a video on how to retrofit it onto existing fridge. Fairly involved - remove fridge, drill holes thru fridge body, etc. Cost is $140.
What it does is cool fridge extra cold when there is excess of energy, say when battery is fully charged and there is excess of solar power. Thereby storing energy in food and liquids in fridge. Then at night, when there is no solar and battery is running down, it adjusts cooling to higher temp.
You could capture some of the energy saving given by this devise by manually adjusting temp of fridge, colder in full sun after say 2 PM then warmer at night, using trimetic meter for guide.

 

[Timothy McGowen]

I have no problems with the latch.

I have two batteries and 160w panel but don't really see the need for the Smart Energy Controller. The fridge by itself seems pretty efficient.

 

[MuleHawk]

I have the dometic 80 and it uses a ton of juice. Can be loud at night when it kicks on. I'm not too pleased with it as far as power consumption but it works well. The door sometimes sticks closed because of the latch not functioning properly, frees up eventually but it's a poor design. I've started research on a replacement but will probably wait until this one kicks the bucket. I'll have to keep checking back here and see how your fridges run longer term, I'd like to stick with a conventional front load for ease issues.


www.mulehawk.com

 

[Ace!]

I have the Dometic 65L. I use a thermometer inside the fridge/freezer to tell what setting to use (how low I need to turn it). My freezer stays close to zero F.

 

[elmo_4_vt]

I have the new 130L Isotherm as well. Does anyone have problems with the door not closing completely? I haven't done the dollar bill test, but on the side opposite the hinge I can see the fridge light shining through almost constantly. Not particularly concerned about this LED battery usage, but surely there is a ton of lost energy resulting from the gap.

Any ideas how to adjust the closure mechanism or how this would be addressed? Mind that the latch is centered on the Isotherm, and doesn't hold 'tension'; it simply latches the door. I've seen the previous posts on adjusting a latch on the Dometic where it is placed opposite the hinge-this won't work here.

On mine, there is a slide mechanism on the top, outside of the frame that catches the door latch. It slides to a position more towards the middle to allow the door to be "latched" in a slightly open position for drying out. I'd think you'd know if you were having that problem though, but wanted to make sure you saw that. We don't use that much though. Even when that slide is in the correct position, I find that we sometimes have to give the door an extra shove to get the magnetic seal to fully seal. I also had to use a felt sticker to make sure that the light went out when closed.

Don

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[mctacoslayer]

If its not too much trouble would you mind posting a couple pics of the isotherm? I would like to see how the large one fits within the hawk...Im debating whether I should go with as large as possible or would the mid size one suffice.

thanks!

T