Joined the Cult....Now what?

[Ruck_and_Roll]

After months of searching, and 4 weeks of arranging with an out of state (and very patient) seller for pick-up and method of payment, I'm finally home with my '08 Hawk!!!!! Seems well taken care of and I am very happy with my purchase. I ended up setting up my truck beforehand with the install kit and used the FWC supplied tie-downs w/supplied eye bolts. This forum thus far has been immensely helpful to me...and actually how a seller found me. I've had great and useful feedback on all of my posts.

Now that I'm home with it, figuring out the next steps.
1. Saw-horses for storage, looks like there are few really great posts on this
2. Electrical-looks a little daunting doing the truck electrical install, I have the directions from FWC and reviewed stan's video, and may give it a go, but thinking about having a professional do it....just not sure where to look, although there is a dealer 4 hours away from me.
3. Solar- trying to determine if it is pre-wired? Any help on that would be greatly appreciated. It is a '08 and there is nothing on the option list that suggests it would be.
4. Get some bike and rod racks and start having fun!

Any other advice/recommendations would be very helpful.

 

[ski3pin]

Congrats on your new camper and welcome!

 

[CougarCouple]

Hello leharro

Congrats on the Hawk. 08 is a very good year, I would recommend " go camping "
Get a multi meter it will help with the electrical, plenty of others have posted up how the store their rods n bikes. Welcome to WtW.
Four Wheel Campers could probably help with the pre wired. Providing the serial number should help.

Russ

 

[kmcintyre]

Now you have to get the tattoo and the forum gets to decide what it is and where it's located! Congrats.

 

[Old Crow]

Congratulations on your score, laherro!

On solar pre-wiring....

In this post from 2007 Stan says solar pre-wiring on all camper models started in early 2006 so you should have it. Look for a coil of red and black wires near the battery.

You also might want to look at the wires from the roof-- they're behind the front lift-panel, close to the left (driver's side) edge of the lift panel. This Tech Tip/Service Bulletin (Camper to Roof Wiring) thread explains why. And I see that first post has a link to Lighthawk's Broken solar wire redux: 2008 Hawk thread where you'll see photos of the wires behind the panel. Also, if you scroll down in that thread, you'll see a photo of where the red and black wires may end up in the roof (under the push-board you use to push up the front of the roof). (If not, contact FWC with your serial number for location info)

.

 

[Ronin]

Congratulations and welcome to the club. Get the electrical from the truck set up just enjoy a season of camping/wandering.

 

[Smokecreek1]

Welcome-get a couple of spare key sets made for your pop-up and strategically find a place to put/keep them ! Maybe a pair of slippers/flip flops for indoor use and a screen door and "welcome" type floor mat. Now get out and go WTWing!

Smoke

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Welcome to the "cult".
Yes this is a great site with a lot of info and members with the know-how.

When I had my 09 ATC Bobcat built I had Marty pre-wired for solar
but the "hot" wire was too small a size,so I ran my own wires at the rear
of the roof and behind the rear lift panel. Works well.
Enjoy your camper they're great.
Frank

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Adding my congrats.
When you wire up your roof solar you might consider eliminating the "friction" connector that over time (in my case) gave us intermittant connectivity.

See pictures:
Old Connector removed from roof

Junction Box

Finished project

Parts, directions, and tests
Page 12 reply # 111 Click on the link below my signature.

Word of warning
We originally had a "flex solar panel" glued on the roof. When it failed getting it off the roof was an exercise. So we located the new panel directly over the surface scars of the old one...forgetting that 26 pounds was now sitting above the bed, in front of the lifting panel and the roof would be impossible to lift without the "speaker lift" even with the 40 pound roof lifters.

Position the panel in front of the rear roof vent to span the middle of the roof so that on each end you are just lifting half the panel.

Purchase the "Yakima" tracks as that gives you a stable platform to install solar panels as they wear out in the future (about every 10 years).

We glued the new panel on the roof and it is just as tight as it was 3 years ago and 30,000 miles...And 3M makes a chemical that disolves the glue when its time to remove it.

Happy camping to you

 

[Lighthawk]

Yep, you joined a cult of nice people who love to camp and explore. Welcome!

You've got the same year Hawk as we do.

It's been great. Old Crow is correct to remember some of our campers have had wiring problems behind the front push board, but it's fixable.

Enjoy getting out there!

 

[achiral]

You may also wish to check the install/expiration date on the CO and propane detectors. The CCI units had a 5 year expiry. MTI has a replacement cross-check list for an exact fit replacement:
http://www.stadealer.com/uploads/1/8/4/1/18412059/mti-cci-cross-list-propane-alarms-2012.pdf

For finding if your solar is pre-wired, checking for two wire bundles in the driver's side front corner is probably the easiest (see above posts). The wires on our 2006 Grandby terminate not at the battery, but on the driver's side near the water pump and battery separator (see picture).

 

[longhorn1]

Congrats

 

[Ruck_and_Roll]

@achiral; great idea, that is what I am currently working on. Actually opened up the CO detector and wires were actually cut (someone must have gotten tired of an alarm). The front panel also said "replace by 2011." The Propane Gas Leak Detector also was mfg in September 2007. I'm obviously replacing both.

It looks like it is prewired. Found the wires behind the front access panel.

You may also wish to check the install/expiration date on the CO and propane detectors. The CCI units had a 5 year expiry. MTI has a replacement cross-check list for an exact fit replacement:
http://www.stadealer.com/uploads/1/8/4/1/18412059/mti-cci-cross-list-propane-alarms-2012.pdf

For finding if your solar is pre-wired, checking for two wire bundles in the driver's side front corner is probably the easiest (see above posts). The wires on our 2006 Grandby terminate not at the battery, but on the driver's side near the water pump and battery separator (see picture).

 

[firemen7]

Welcome to the “Cult”, I have enjoyed this group for several years and whole heartily approve.

 

[achiral]

@achiral; great idea, that is what I am currently working on. Actually opened up the CO detector and wires were actually cut (someone must have gotten tired of an alarm). The front panel also said "replace by 2011." The Propane Gas Leak Detector also was mfg in September 2007. I'm obviously replacing both.

It looks like it is prewired. Found the wires behind the front access panel.

I finally ordered and installed a CO detector and propane detector based on the 'exact fit' charts in that link.

Unfortunately, exact fit doesn't appear to mean the same thing for FirstAlert as it does for me. The propane detector was approximately 1/4" less wide than the previous version. I was able to make this still work with the original cutout from 4WC as there was adequate luan material to screw into and the detector mounting flange was wide enough to hide the old screw holes.

The new CO detector, on the other hand, had an additional 3/8" depth compared to the old part as well as slightly larger vertical dimensions. Since there is minimal clearance between the rear luan paneling and rear frame, the new detector did not fit flush with the wall. I ended up slightly increasing the size of the cut-out in the luan (~1/2" vertical) and making an exact-fit 3/8" thick frame of plywood to fit the detector cut-out and flange. It looks extremely clean, but did add a couple of hours of work to the replacement of the old detectors.

 

[Ruck_and_Roll]

I have the exact same problem. Propane detector fit perfectly, but neither the surface mount or flush mount are good fits on the old detector. I'll likely go your route and just do a finished wood or plywood cutout to take care of the extra depth. Do you mind posting a pic?

I finally ordered and installed a CO detector and propane detector based on the 'exact fit' charts in that link.

Unfortunately, exact fit doesn't appear to mean the same thing for FirstAlert as it does for me. The propane detector was approximately 1/4" less wide than the previous version. I was able to make this still work with the original cutout from 4WC as there was adequate luan material to screw into and the detector mounting flange was wide enough to hide the old screw holes.

The new CO detector, on the other hand, had an additional 3/8" depth compared to the old part as well as slightly larger vertical dimensions. Since there is minimal clearance between the rear luan paneling and rear frame, the new detector did not fit flush with the wall. I ended up slightly increasing the size of the cut-out in the luan (~1/2" vertical) and making an exact-fit 3/8" thick frame of plywood to fit the detector cut-out and flange. It looks extremely clean, but did add a couple of hours of work to the replacement of the old detectors.

 

[achiral]

This is 3/8" oak plywood with minimal voids, but something like baltic birch would probably be better. I traced the outline of the detector and the portion behind the flush mount, then used a drill and splinter-free blade on a jig-saw to cut out the plywood frame.

4WC used two pieces of 3/4" or so fiberboard behind the luan as a screw backing, so I had to be quite careful about placing the wires and inserting the detector and new plywood frame so that the screws still went into those pieces of fiberboard. The luan is just not enough to retain a #6 wood screw.

 

[Ruck_and_Roll]

That looks great...its next on the project list after solar!

This is 3/8" oak plywood with minimal voids, but something like baltic birch would probably be better. I traced the outline of the detector and the portion behind the flush mount, then used a drill and splinter-free blade on a jig-saw to cut out the plywood frame.

4WC used two pieces of 3/4" or so fiberboard behind the luan as a screw backing, so I had to be quite careful about placing the wires and inserting the detector and new plywood frame so that the screws still went into those pieces of fiberboard. The luan is just not enough to retain a #6 wood screw.

 

[SmashRocks]

Here’s my two cents on a few of your “issues”.
1. Storage should be pretty simple if you built something out of wood that is sturdy enough. Mine is in full time but if o have to haul crap which is rare I built a rolling dolly out of 4x4, 2x4 and some heavy duty caster wheels from Amazon. Took about an hour to build and I can lower it and wheel it into my garage if needed. If you’re handy enough just built it. You’ll be fine.

2. Electrical isn’t rocket science, just look up a wiring diagram and some videos on how to either solder and/or some water proof connections if you are splicing anything. I know this point doesn’t help, but my two cents[emoji854]

3. A buddy of mine just got a 2010 hawk which was pre wired. He cut a hole in the roof and found the wires to splice to by cutting into the driver side ceiling above the bed. Risky but he nailed it. I can get him to post if you’re interested.

4. Check out my posts for adding stuff to the jack brackets. Some angle iron from depot and you could mount a rod vault parallel with the side of the camper. I also recommend a swing arm for a hitch bike rack. Kuat makes a sturdy one and REI has 20% off periodically. Best addition I’ve made for access into the camper with a bike rack.