Just Bought a Vintage Alaskan 8' NCO and I Have Tons of Questions!

[PackRat]

Yup...got rid of that old beat up Lance I had (too long, too wide, too tall, too old....too bad).

I ran across this website and have enjoyed not only the AK info but much of what the WTW members have shared on their vehicles, campers, trips, equipment and food....

A mid-70s or so 8 ft CO is what I am looking for....but not a major "project"!

hey...I'm in Novato down the 101 Rusty, so if you run across something that would work for me please let me know!...

 

[Grrlartist]

IMG_0709.JPG
This is mine, shows 8th month of 67 built in Red Deer Alberta.

If I have one of these, I have not found it yet. I have this:

(which is not filled in)

and I have this:

(I added the label info into the photo because it's almost impossible to see even in person).

So far the only thing that actually says "Alaskan" on it is a paper sticker in the upper cabinets which says they recommend only loading lightweight items in the upper cabinet.

Thanks for the info about the under camper supports and how to make sure it's dead center in the truck. I do have a question about those rubber bumpers ~ wouldn't that allow rain to run down in front of the camper to the bed of the truck? I guess there's no real way to prevent that, is there? Luckily for me I live in the desert, so that won't be too much of an issue anyway.

You guys are giving me so much to think about, I can't wait to get started on it.

Oh yeah, I thought of something today ~ everybody keeps talking about changing the o-rings ~ those are o-rings on the pump, or o-rings within the hydraulic system, or both?

 

[Willys Addict]

I did both the pump and the rams, flushed the system, and rams using plenty of brake clean.All O rings are standard.I had know idea when it had been done last.

 

[Willys Addict]

Sorry, meant to add, your plac. DA 1967-2-8. just a thought

 

[PackRat]

You may have another tag on the AK, but as to it being a 1967....I am not sure when the different builders went from the tip-out Hehr windows to the sliders on the side but I thought it was later than that date.....but perhaps it is....

Those were on the rear panel to the side of the door I think....have you checked any glued-on instructions on the door to the hydraulic jack or where the circuit breaker might be above the rear door on the inside? Checking the bottom of the stove or the fridge may yield a dated tag from the mfger.

 

[Willys Addict]

My Canadian 67 has sliding windows.

 

[Grrlartist]

Thanks for the potential insights, guys ~ I will check as soon as I recover from this cold!



Jo

 

[Old Crow]

I believe that's called a California Insignia of Approval. As we see, it's issued by the Department of Housing and Community Development. That tells us their interest is in housing--- which suggests PLG=Plumbing, HTG=Heating, EL=Electric. In other words it's just a place to check off that the unit contains those systems. The M may be a code for Manufacturer and correspond to a list maintained by the agency. The S is probably a serial number as this document says the insignia will contain a serial number with S or SN. The 2211 may be a 'Plan Approval Number', part of the manufacturer's registration process. The DA code does seem like it would be a date but I've been unable to find anything on it.

 

[Denver Alaskan]

To follow up on Old Crow's posting, the California Insignia of Approval plate indicates to me that your Alaskan camper most likely was built in and originally sold at Alaskan's California factory, and therefore had to comply with the applicable California codes, regulations and standards pertaining to recreational vehicle plumbing, heating and electrical system standards. California undoubtedly viewed truck campers as "recreational vehicles" required to comply with applicable its laws back then (whenever "then" was). Like Willys Addict and Old Crow, I also think "DA" might be the abbreviation for date and that your Alaskan camper may have been built on 2-8-1967 (putting those numbers in their usual order). Have fun with it and enjoy it!

 

[Grrlartist]

Thanks guys! I have been laid up the last few days with a wicked cold, I will go out and do further inspections once I am back to breathing normally ~

 

[PackRat]

Jo...the internet is a wonderful thing...you can find out so much about your AK (or anything else) very easily. When I had my mid-60's AK there was no internet like there is today. I didn't know about the Pirelli seal for instance...We just took a few old beach towels and rolled 'em up and "sealed" the camper that way once we set up camp....in the Sierra Nevada mountains in summer it is near freezing at 6000 feet at night!

When you feel better, get a friend to help you on this...after the sun has gone down.
Raise the top, get inside and then get a mirror to help you see DOWN between the top and bottom sections.
Have the friend walk around the AK with a good flashlight and shine it UP between the top and bottom sections.

Result:
No light showing inside = good seal
Plenty of light showing inside = bad seal

Odds are it has seen better days so that is a good job once it warms up again before the camping season begins....but if you plan to hit the "Happy Highway" with the AK before that, then this is a task you should complete before that.

Since you will be installing some of the seal across the FRONT of the AK, you should plan that task at the same time you might need to dismount the AK from your truck.

I wish I knew I could have bought some of that Pirelli seal stuff when I had my AK.....it was chilly in there when up in the mountains in the morning....It was my first job in the morning to get the coffee pot on the stove and by the time it was ready, it had warmed up the AK as well! I just cracked open the top vent when I did that and the little propane stove did its thing!

 

[Rusty]

When your pirelli starts cracking on the surface it's time to start thinking about replacing it. I just finished salvaging a 59 Alaskan...and the pirelli was absolutely shredded....far beyond usefulness...well into uselessness....

it's important, as Pack Rats has pointed out...to help retain some heat and knock down breezes inside...but just as important is keeping dust out when you're traveling down the road during the summer. nothing more unpleasant than going into your "cabin" and having it covered with a thin layer of grit from that dusty road you just drove to the favorite fishing hole.

The upper half is constantly floating around and moving back and forth....a good breeze, without pirelli, can lift the upper half. also a good idea to tighten the hydraulics then the camper is down....to put a little back pressure on the system so it holds in place.

 

[Grrlartist]

Yeah, before I even found this forum, I had figured out that whatever "that stuff" was needed to be replaced... it cracks to the touch, but I tried to leave it in place so I could identify how it was installed later. I was really happy to come here and find out what it's called. Well, what really happened was I saw somebody else talking about the pirelli on their camper, and guessed from the context that it must be the same thing. So, this is something I can still purchase, right? Am I going to have to remove the top completely in order to put the pirelli on? I don't have an off-street place to do that (entire yard is enclosed with a 4 ft cinderblock fence). My options are: find a way to do it on the street or in the very-short-and-not-level driveway. Our street is very quiet and I can do everything else, but completely pulling apart the two halves would be pushing it I think.......

 

[Ripperj]

The pirelli is available from Alaskan. It's a bit expensive. You don't have to separate the top/bottom. The seal should just be sandwiched between a metal strip and the bottom of the camper. There should be another seal inside, under wooden trim. Mine had small nails under the metal strip to hold the seal in place when you screw the metal strip on.

 

[Ripperj]

I held my pirelli on with strip of composite trim from Home Depot. I narrowed it on a table saw. I used all SS screws and caulked all the holes. It doesn't fit perfect.

 

[Rusty]

nothing ever fits "perfectly".....but Rippers piece is as close as it gets.....

now a bead of caulk on the outboard side will stop the "wicking" back under

 

[PackRat]

Hey Rusty.....do you think laying a small bead of sealant along the top of the seal before attaching it to the top would be OK? Right near the outer edge where any moisture running down the side would not be able to get between the Pirelli seal and the aluminum siding?

Jo....while you can do this with the AK still mounted, it would be a good time to put a "spacer" between the bottom edge of the AK and the front wall of the truck bed to keep the drip edge just back slightly from the paint on the cab....rubber bumpers or maybe just a 2" x 4" the width of the lower (48") would do the trick.

Do you have a bed liner or is the AK sitting on the steel of the truck bed?
Maybe getting that 2" x 6" perimeter with some cross supports installed would be good way to isolate moisture from the AK flooring. I'd suggest it be painted to stop moisture from wicking up to the plywood floor.

Also sorting out where/how the propane tank will feed the stove now would be a good idea as well. If you have the skinny tank it might fit between the truck bed wall and the lower AK side and you can attach the propane flexi to it that way.

You want to avoid having to lift up the AK as much as possible so doing some of this at one time will help.

 

[Rusty]

Hey Rusty.....do you think laying a small bead of sealant along the top of the seal before attaching it to the top would be OK? Right near the outer edge where any moisture running down the side would not be able to get between the Pirelli seal and the aluminum siding?.....YES

Jo....while you can do this with the AK still mounted, it would be a good time to put a "spacer" between the bottom edge of the AK and the front wall of the truck bed to keep the drip edge just back slightly from the paint on the cab....rubber bumpers or maybe just a 2" x 4" the width of the lower (48") would do the trick.

Do you have a bed liner or is the AK sitting on the steel of the truck bed?
Maybe getting that 2" x 6" perimeter with some cross supports installed would be good way to isolate moisture from the AK flooring. I'd suggest it be painted to stop moisture from wicking up to the plywood floor.......don't use Latex....it forms a skin and traps moisture in the wood...use a good quality Oil base paint

Also sorting out where/how the propane tank will feed the stove now would be a good idea as well. If you have the skinny tank it might fit between the truck bed wall and the lower AK side and you can attach the propane flexi to it that way.

You want to avoid having to lift up the AK as much as possible so doing some of this at one time will help.

 

[Grrlartist]

Hey Rusty.....do you think laying a small bead of sealant along the top of the seal before attaching it to the top would be OK? Right near the outer edge where any moisture running down the side would not be able to get between the Pirelli seal and the aluminum siding? What kind sealant will not attack the prielli over time?

Jo....while you can do this with the AK still mounted, it would be a good time to put a "spacer" between the bottom edge of the AK and the front wall of the truck bed to keep the drip edge just back slightly from the paint on the cab....rubber bumpers or maybe just a 2" x 4" the width of the lower (48") would do the trick.

So, how much clearance do I need when the top is in the down position ~ enough that the camper doesn't rub the back of the cab (obviously) like 1/2" clearance or maybe a little more? Is the upper part of the camper going to move back and forth a bit in transit, or it is pretty solid when in the down position? Unfortunately, the paint job on the truck is beyond being protected and I am in the desert, so rain is a rare occurrence, but I want to do it right obviously. I'm hoping for enough clearance to line the tail gate with lightweight slats to make a nice little porch on the back when camping.

Do you have a bed liner or is the AK sitting on the steel of the truck bed? No bed liner
Maybe getting that 2" x 6" perimeter with some cross supports installed would be good way to isolate moisture from the AK flooring. I'd suggest it be painted to stop moisture from wicking up to the plywood floor. Yes, planning on doing this. Will make sure to use a good enamel paint. Is foam insulation under the floor of the camper a bad idea? I wondered about fatigue mats cut to fit the openings in the frame you describe, just to cut the chill of the floor on a cold morning. Bad idea? Maybe air space is better?

Also sorting out where/how the propane tank will feed the stove now would be a good idea as well. If you have the skinny tank it might fit between the truck bed wall and the lower AK side and you can attach the propane flexi to it that way. I think that will work ~ I've got the flexihose setup and and I'm pretty sure the skinny tank will fit along side there

You want to avoid having to lift up the AK as much as possible so doing some of this at one time will help. Yes, this is what I'm thinking, too ~ want to do whatever goes under the camper and move it forward a hair at the same time.

Thanks guys ~ still under the weather but better enough that I can sit up and think about things!

 

[PackRat]

Here's hoping you are feeling better and perhaps a little sunshine has warmed up things....

1) I put a 2" x 4" across the truck bed to get the AK to sit back a bit so it didn't wear against the edge of the tub. When I did that I checked to be sure I could still get the tailgate closed on my truck. I got the AK right up against the 2x4 which held it just a bit back from the tub front rail and that kept the front drip edge from wearing away the paint on the cab of the truck. You WANT the AK up against the tub so it does not start sliding fore and aft and wearing out the mounts you have to hold it in there. I did have a bed liner and that gave me about 3/8" on either side of the AK to the wheel well part of the bed liner so I did not use shims.

2) A worn-out front Pirelli will let the top half move around in transit just like worn out side seals will....you don't want that but to answer your question....I think if you get the bottom back off the front edge of the tub just a little that will be OK. This next time around I plan to use a 2" x 6" to spread the force around a bit better. This means you are stopping movement with not only the side walls ad front panel but down low the bottom plywood is also held and that stops flexing which leads to leaks and everybody is happy.

3) If you need to raise the AK a little due to late model tub rails being HIGHER, then the perimeter 2" x 6"s sound good with three cross members to distribute the load. Painted as Rusty noted....insulation is good as you do not have a bed liner and that steel transfers cold to the floor of the AK. Probably several options that do not wick moisture up against the bottom of the AK will work.

4) Now is the time to figure out how you will secure the AK in the truck bed....did it come with any turnbuckles (happijacs) or Torklifts? Does your truck bed have bolted on plates at the front outside corners to secure the AK to? Several methods but it depends on what you have already on the truck, on the AK or included in the deal.

Spring is coming....time to get things sorted out.....after you bail out the water or dig out the truck from the snow!