Low Cost Mods

That is what I was thinking. If I had a diesel in which there are a lot more parameters to check out and monitor I could appreciate the edge but with a gas engine I'm just not seeing it. I mainly w to watch trans temps and instantaneous MPG off the top of my head. Leadsled9 how about a little more input on your suggestion for consideration?


The Edge CTS is more expensive than the Scan Guage, but it has proven to be much more reliable and accurate. You might save a few bucks on the Scan Guage and it might work out just fine for you....but how much is your engine worth? Is it worth the risk? Only you can answer that question for yourself.
 
The Edge CTS is more expensive than the Scan Guage, but it has proven to be much more reliable and accurate. You might save a few bucks on the Scan Guage and it might work out just fine for you....but how much is your engine worth? Is it worth the risk? Only you can answer that question for yourself.


With a gas engine there really isn't much I'd be watching (temp, oil pressure, etc. are already covered on the stock gauges), not nearly as concerned with fuel pressure, intake temps, etc. on a regular basis. Am I being naive on anything at the moment? As I said before I can totally see watching a lot more parameters with a turbo diesel.

The number 1 thing I'm interested in is trans temp, a nice perk would be instantaneous MPGs so I could tailor my driving some. Everything else is gravy. From reading on the scan gauge it sounds like I should be able to program in a code for trans temp which would be a much cleaner install than doing another axillary trans temp sensor/gauge on this truck.
 
One of the reasons I got the Edge CTS is to monitor the behavior of my auto tranny. With the CTS you can see what actual gear you are in and whether the torque converter is locked or not, the transmission oil temperature etc.

With this information you can monitor the behavior of your tranny in the standard "Drive" setting....compare it to the behavior of the "Tow/Haul" setting....and compare that to you manually choosing the gears as you ascend hills and descend hills. Knowing when the torque converter is locked is priceless.

My Scan Guage doesn't do that. Also, the Scan Guage frequently goes into berserk mode and readings are all over the map. Then it straightens out again.

The Edge has never had any hicups like that. IMO it's worth the extra money.

The extra monitoring available for diesel owners is great too.....but if you really want to monitor what your tranny is doing at all times....the Edge is the the one to get.
 
I'll read more on the edge manual and see what all is supported on my computer. No major rush to do all this other than wanting to play with new toys. :LOL:
 
I got tired of always having the snap latches catch on things in the cabinets.So i just removed them and replaced them with small "hair"bands (skurnchies?).Now i don't have the problem of things inside catching on the snap lock.I prefer the slid doors vs hinged ones.

Works for me

Frank
 

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I got tired of always having the snap latches catch on things in the cabinets.So i just removed them and replaced them with small "hair"bands (skurnchies?).Now i don't have the problem of things inside catching on the snap lock.I prefer the slid doors vs hinged ones.

Works for me

Frank




Soon to be done to my Hawk.

Bill
 
Soon to be done to my Hawk.

Bill



Bill notice that the large slider under the sink has a small "stop screw" at the bottom of the frame.Not super needed but it does keep the slider from over closing.Does that make any sense? I found this mod to be very helpful.Have fun.
Frank
 
This looks good, and I may try it. I wo
i-Dw5D4hK-M.jpg
nder if the roll will stay rolled under bumpy conditions...
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In your T-day jaunt perhaps you could find some really nice washboard and see how it holds up to high-amp vibration...maybe the north-entrance Saline Valley road?
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I'd test it myself, but I have a car-based trip to visit the Folks planned for T-Day.
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Oh, the 'road' to Aurora was a very good test. The paper towels stayed put and didn't unroll.
I did find that I knocked it loose a few times when digging around behind the couch. Maybe a little bigger screw head or a washer to keep the mini-bungie hook is all I need.
 
It's time for another low cost mod :)

Our Hawk has the couch with the L shape settee over the water tank up front. Standard stuff.
Last year I installed a knock off Westy pivoting table that works well for us, but it was over a hundred bucks, so not what I call low cost. The table works well for us to prep food and to sit and eat. Pivot table in a Hawk

After dinner we sometimes watch a movie on a laptop and like to lounge leaning against the front of the rig, legs extended with the laptop sitting on the table. We drape a heavy wool blanket over the front window to cushion and insulate the cold window and window frame. Recently we've been using the extra cushions from the pull out bed to provide a backrest, which works well. Except the person next to the cabinet hardly has a deep enough seat.

My solution: Replace the 1/2" ply lid to the settee storage with one that's about three inches deeper. We turn the 20x24 cushion a quarter turn and it provides a nice deep seat for the person against the cabinet. The result is a huge ell shaped couch with us seated side by side with a good backrest (if I place a rolled towed behind the bottom, it is slightly reclined).



Cost? Nothing (to me). The cushions came with the Hawk and I scored a piece of quality 9-ply off one of my remodels, which I finished with some shellac I had in the garage. It took five minutes to unscrew the old seat and replace it with the slightly enlarged one.

Downside? We lost about 3" of standing room, but can still comfortably do the dishes in front of the sink. Sadie (60# dog) got a larger cubby where she has her bed. If we decide we want to go back to stock, I can replace the original lid in no time.

We're pretty happy with our couch remodel, but it might be nice to replace the foam someday with something a bit less firm.







Old seat lid compared to new
 
Added a usb outlet. Came in handy when I was watching a movie (I don't normally do movies on the road but it was too early to turn in and to cold to do anything else) and got a low battery warning ten minutes before the end of the movie. Was nice to be able to plug it in and finish the movie. Sure I could have charged it in the truck but thats so inconvenient.

usb.jpg

Now I need to figure how to clean up the remnants of an earlier installation.
 
Before I found out about the built in USB outlets, I purchased this car charger USB adapter., under $5 on Ebay.
CarChargerUSBAdapter.jpg


Works, doesn't really stick out much and I could have probably left in in place, however, I use my 12VDC socket for other things, too, and, it's just another thing to store, possibly lose or not find again for a long while, and some would dislike that it's made in China, but what isn't that's like this item?

After I saw the built in USB port in another thread I went back and added the built in USB port to my 12 VDC wiring.
 
Added a usb outlet. Came in handy when I was watching a movie (I don't normally do movies on the road but it was too early to turn in and to cold to do anything else) and got a low battery warning ten minutes before the end of the movie. Was nice to be able to plug it in and finish the movie.

usb.jpg



After I saw the built in USB port in another thread I went back and added the built in USB port to my 12 VDC wiring.

About the USB outlets: Does the hardware you buy include some kind of voltage converter? Since USB voltage -- and what devices that plug into it expect -- is 5v, it must not be an unmodified connection to 12v...I assume.
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Craig: What kind of movie-watching device is it?
 
Yes the device has internal electronics to lower the voltage to 5v. I was using my new Kindle Fire to watch the movie. Pretty good picture once you get past it being a 7" screen, but hey, some people watch movies on their phones so I guess it isn't that bad :cautious:
 
Before I found out about the built in USB outlets, I purchased this car charger USB adapter., under $5 on Ebay.
CarChargerUSBAdapter.jpg


Works, doesn't really stick out much and I could have probably left in in place, however, I use my 12VDC socket for other things, too, and, it's just another thing to store, possibly lose or not find again for a long while, and some would dislike that it's made in China, but what isn't that's like this item?

After I saw the built in USB port in another thread I went back and added the built in USB port to my 12 VDC wiring.



One thing to keep in mind on those plugs is the cheaper ones are only rated for about 1amp and some of the newer smart phones / ipods / etc. pull more than that. They make ones that cost a couple bucks more that are rated for 2.1amps, you should look into those when using a plug style.

I imagine this can apply to the hard wired ones as well.
 
Hum, I didn't even check when I initially purchased the plug adapter.
The plug style adapter is gone now, so I can't check what it was.
My charging "seems" to be faster with the built in (no technical data to back that up), so I probably had the low amp version for the plug adapter and a better version for the built in.
Good thinking.
 
Here is another simple upgrade. We wanted a shelf in the under sink cabinet. We also wanted a cutting board. After spending some time hunting for one that was just the right size (almost). I screwed in some light weight angle iron stock and few shims.
gallery_2153_354_86340.jpg
 
Leadsled9 brought up a good question on another thread.Padding on the door frame so you don't rip open your head if you run into it.I use a piece of foam pipe insulation cut to the width of the door frame and just slip it on the frame lip.Works great keeps the head from needing stitches should you crash into the door frame.Will send a picture if any one needs to see what I have described.

This thread is great,lots of useful ideas.Keep them coming.

Frank
 
I don't know if it meets the cost criteria, but Tap Plastics can supply cutting boards in one inch increments in both width and length (1" min, 48" max) and in several thickness'
Here is another simple upgrade. We wanted a shelf in the under sink cabinet. We also wanted a cutting board. After spending some time hunting for one that was just the right size (almost). I screwed in some light weight angle iron stock and few shims.
gallery_2153_354_86340.jpg
 
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