Lower Sleeping Platform

claws

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Joined
Jul 23, 2012
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Trying to figure out a stealth sleeping platform for my Hawk shell. I'm thinking of something that would go where a front dinette bed would go. Probably the simplest fix would be a 24" wide plywood sheet supported by the wheel well benches. The unsupported span would be around 40" and I don't know if 3/4" plywood would support my 230lb body. I would top the platform with a decent camping mattress. I could use the space beneath the platform for storage. Weight and a lack of carpentry skills are issues and I'd like to obstruct as little of the Hawk's limited floor space as possible. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Kim
 
My bed is across the front, 39" x 78" (twin bed size).
I am 180# and sleep on 1/2" plywood base with 4" foam mattress. You can see on my build thread (in my signature) how I supported it with storage compartments.
 
JaSAn said:
My bed is across the front, 39" x 78" (twin bed size).
I am 180# and sleep on 1/2" plywood base with 4" foam mattress. You can see on my build thread (in my signature) how I supported it with storage compartments.
Thank you. Some good ideas for supporting the plywood. I am hoping to support the plywood with the benches themselves and maybe one center support. Trying to keep the weight down and carpentry to a minimum. Also, it would be nice to prop the platform up against the front wall when not in use to create more floor space.
 
With your weight, I would not trust 40 inches unsupported. When I did my remodel of an old Fleet, it was important to me to be able to use the bed with the top down without blocking all of the available floor space. We decided 48" wide x 75" long oriented across the truck bed from side to side was plenty for the two of us since we're both fairly small. I made two removable bed frame pieces 24 inches wide. The section closest to the cab makes a couch and flips up for access to storage and turnbuckles. I used a piece of 3/4" plywood with a single 2x4 on edge to support the front and screwed a thin strip of wood on the wall of the camper to support the other side. The 2x4 is screwed to the plywood every 8 inches or so and doesn't rest on anything, this is sufficient to keep the platform rigid on the front. The back of the plywood rests on the strip of wood attached to the wall. I started out reusing the original cushions, but have since purchased new foam 4 inches thich by 24 inches wide.
 

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Thanks Sleddog. Very helpful ideas. I'd like to avoid drilling into the camper wall or benches though. Maybe a 2x4 frame 24"x40" with a plywood top extending past the frame and resting on the benches for support would work. Another idea I've considered is a cut down hollow core door about 75" long resting on the benches.

Kim
 
ramblinChet said:
Please share some pics when you can as this sounds like an interesting option for many of us.
Pictures will have to wait a while Chet. My Hawk shell is not scheduled for install until December 29th. I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row while I wait.

Kim
 
I would make the plywood 75 inches long to span across the top of the benches. If you don't want to drill into the wall, screw a 40 inch 2x4 to both front and back of the plywood, that's all you really need. The benches will hold the platform up and the 2x4s will keep the plywood from bowing in the middle.
 
Thanks Sleddog. That does seem like the simplest solution and is probably what I will end up doing. One more option that would avoid 2x4 supports would be to fashion a 24"x75" platform out of whatever material FWC uses for the slide out bed platform. It would obviously handle the unsupported span but might be quite heavy. I don't know what the material is or where to access it or how to cut it.

Kim
 
claws said:
Trying to figure out a stealth sleeping platform for my Hawk shell. I'm thinking of something that would go where a front dinette bed would go. Probably the simplest fix would be a 24" wide plywood sheet supported by the wheel well benches. The unsupported span would be around 40" and I don't know if 3/4" plywood would support my 230lb body. I would top the platform with a decent camping mattress. I could use the space beneath the platform for storage. Weight and a lack of carpentry skills are issues and I'd like to obstruct as little of the Hawk's limited floor space as possible. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Kim
Mine is 3/4" ply (Home Depot) supported by a 2"x4" frame (frame is screwed in with the 2x4s sitting vertically - not horizontally - for structural support). The framework rests on two side support shelves (lips) the width of the frame, which are thru-bolted to the sides of the benches - one on each side. If you span the on top of the benches, from wall to wall, then you won't be able to open the bench lids unless you modify them. Keeping the platform inside (between exteriors of both benches) allows you to open the lids on the benches easily without mods to the benches.The exposed front of the frame is covered with a piece of finished hardwood (1"x5") and matches the look of the bed rail, up top. The top of the platform is covered with indoor/outdoor carpet that also matches the FWC side bench carpet (also Home Depot). This settee bench top plywood is hinged in the back with a piano hinge (to the 2x4 frame) so it can be lifted easily to access the storage underneath. I also have an insert to make the bench wider for two people, but typically we use the this platform lid as a settee bench for sitting. It is wide enough for one person to sleep stealth without the insert. It easily supports two people with no sagging in the middle and requires no center leg support (although it does have a center 2x4 support built into the frame). My link below shows this as well. It's an easy project and relatively inexpensive.

Rich

interior-fwd.jpg
 
With a shell you have lots of options depending on how you want to use the space. Maybe something similar to the original rollover couch that is still offered by FWC. That would probably tie up so interior space with dedicated lower cabinets though. I have spend many nights on the rollover couch in my Hawk with the top down.
 
Very nice Rich. Where did you get those cushion seats?

Kim
 
claws said:
Very nice Rich. Where did you get those cushion seats?

Kim
https://www.sportaseat.com/


These seats are very durable and will hold up for many years of hard use. They are comfortable, you don't feel the frame on your legs, and they are constructed way better than the cheap replicas found in marine stores (e.g. w. marine). Quality is an important factor with this type of seat. They also lay flat if you need to stretch out. The Sunbrella fabric is mold and waterproof. Used them for years in the cockpit of my sailboat in saltwater environment.
 
i have an atc shell, ocelot. the 'plan' is to make 2 seating storage boxes on the window side (passenger side), with cushions on top. will put a laguan like table top in between, that when lowered, and topped with a cushion will make a bed platform. and i will have storage in the boxes for electrical system, batt., etc.
thats the plan. river trips keep getting in the way of actually creating it.
 
Vic Harder said:
We use these seats - EASY II (Blue & Beige): Amazon.ca: Home & Kitchen

The material that FWC uses for the bed slide will NOT support you on its own. The slide rests on the bed surface it slides out from on the forward edge, and the oak facing board at the front supports the back that you see and hold on to to pull out the slide.
Thanks Vic. I'll take that option off my list.
 
ri-f said:
Mine is 3/4" ply (Home Depot) supported by a 2"x4" frame (frame is screwed in with the 2x4s sitting vertically - not horizontally - for structural support). The framework rests on two side support shelves (lips) the width of the frame, which are thru-bolted to the sides of the benches - one on each side. If you span the on top of the benches, from wall to wall, then you won't be able to open the bench lids unless you modify them. Keeping the platform inside (between exteriors of both benches) allows you to open the lids on the benches easily without mods to the benches.The exposed front of the frame is covered with a piece of finished hardwood (1"x5") and matches the look of the bed rail, up top. The top of the platform is covered with indoor/outdoor carpet that also matches the FWC side bench carpet (also Home Depot). This settee bench top plywood is hinged in the back with a piano hinge (to the 2x4 frame) so it can be lifted easily to access the storage underneath. I also have an insert to make the bench wider for two people, but typically we use the this platform lid as a settee bench for sitting. It is wide enough for one person to sleep stealth without the insert. It easily supports two people with no sagging in the middle and requires no center leg support (although it does have a center 2x4 support built into the frame). My link below shows this as well. It's an easy project and relatively inexpensive.

Rich

interior-fwd.jpg
I just re read your post. I didn't know that the side benches opened from the top. Are they hinged or do they just lift off? I don't have my camper yet or I could answer my own question. This changes my platform options considerably. Can the inside of the benches be used for storage on either side of the wheel wells?
 
"Can the inside of the benches be used for storage on either side of the wheel wells?"

No.
 
claws said:
I just re read your post. I didn't know that the side benches opened from the top. Are they hinged or do they just lift off? I don't have my camper yet or I could answer my own question. This changes my platform options considerably. Can the inside of the benches be used for storage on either side of the wheel wells?
Kim,
The side benches - at least this is true for the Hawk shell - have hinged lids that run the full length of the bench. They do open up and you wouldn't want to put a board on top of them or you'd lose convenient access to the storage spaces they provide. Also, the one on the driver's side houses the fuse panel and a bus bar that you would want access to. If you look at my photo you see that on the right side towards the rear, there is a cut out area. If you follow the black corner moulding it makes a 90 degree turn towards the window wall on the passenger side and then another 90 degree turn back toward the rear wall/door area. Where those two 90 degree angles intersect is where the hinge starts and runs forward to the bulkhead wall. The storage boxes are roughly 5-6 inches wide by roughly a foot deep and run the full length, on both sides.

These storage lockers sit above the wheel wells. Storage below those lockers, in your pickup bed, is going to be limited by your turnbuckles and limited access through the small turnbuckle access doors. In my particular case, access to that area is available because my slide-in shell sits on a flatbed platform where there are no wheel well obstructions. You could possibly stow some small stuff in the space forward of the wheel well, where the turnbuckle is positioned, but it will be limited space and limited access and somewhat exposed to the outside (i.e., between the camper exterior wall and the pickup's inner bed wall just forward of the wheel well; it could get road dust and possibly wet in there, so you'll need to be careful what you decide to stow there, if anything. Hope that helps

Rich
 
Thanks a lot, Rich. This info is very helpful indeed. I assume that this access will allow me to attach washers and nuts to my through bolted platform cleats I'll need to support my framed plywood bench.

Kim
 
This is my simplistic way. I found the benches too narrow so I screwed a wider piece of plywood on top and ran a bed all the way across the back with the bench plywood butting into that. I’m not 230 but with my 90lb dog on it with me I am!
this is cluttered but it is fully loaded for a week out.
 

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