Lower Sleeping Platform

[ri-f]

Thanks a lot, Rich. This info is very helpful indeed. I assume that this access will allow me to attach washers and nuts to my through bolted platform cleats I'll need to support my framed plywood bench.

Kim

Yes, you can, and should, absolutely thru-bolt to the inside of those lockers. They are solid wood and there are no obstructions inside to worry about. That's exactly what I did on mine. Underneath your new platform will be plenty of room for excellent storage. I happen to use two large size Rubbermaid 24-gallon Action Packers under the platform and there's still room for more stuff. There are plenty of other options, but this one works very well for me. Just size your platform to accomodate whatever storage you intend to use underneath. Rich

 

[claws]

This is my simplistic way. I found the benches too narrow so I screwed a wider piece of plywood on top and ran a bed all the way across the back with the bench plywood butting into that. I’m not 230 but with my 90lb dog on it with me I am!
this is cluttered but it is fully loaded for a week out.

Thanks JWL.

 

[Machinebuilder]

https://www.sportaseat.com/


These seats are very durable and will hold up for many years of hard use. They are comfortable, you don't feel the frame on your legs, and they are constructed way better than the cheap replicas found in marine stores (e.g. w. marine). Quality is an important factor with this type of seat. They also lay flat if you need to stretch out. The Sunbrella fabric is mold and waterproof. Used them for years in the cockpit of my sailboat in saltwater environment.

I'll give a second thumbs up on the sport a seat.

I got one after seeing Rich's post about his build.

They are very comfortable and hold the seat angle very well.

 

[claws]

Anyone have a pic of the newest Hawk Shell interior? I received a comment from Stan at FWC on another of my posts about side benches and he said they have changed the top opening side benches to front opening benches. This will definitely change my options for securing a sleeping platform. I don't want to build anything that would obstruct access to the little bit of storage the side benches provide.

Thanks,
Kim

 

[korslite]

JWL's picture above shows the way the current shell model benches are configured. The long rectangular doors on the right side are how you access the small storage area rather than opening from the top.

 

[JWL]

Here is another one without all the “stuff”

 

[claws]

Thanks Korslite and JWL. Looks like I will have to rethink my platform plans. There won't be space to install cleats to support a platform. It seems that my best option is to support a plywood shelf by the bench tops and install a support mid span from the floor to the bottom of the plywood. Trying to figure a way to make the support easily removeable so I can store the platform out of the way when not in use.

Kim

 

[ri-f]

Thanks Korslite and JWL. Looks like I will have to rethink my platform plans. There won't be space to install cleats to support a platform. It seems that my best option is to support a plywood shelf by the bench tops and install a support mid span from the floor to the bottom of the plywood. Trying to figure a way to make the support easily removeable so I can store the platform out of the way when not in use.

Kim

Well, that kinda throws a monkey wrench into your gears, Kim. You could still run a platform all the way across the top of both side benches and eliminate the need for the cleats you mention. And you could hinge the lid to both of those side benches, so that it could flip up to access the floor storage. That wouldn't interfere with the front drawer access, except that when you needed to get to something you'd have to flip up the platform/lid to access the front drawers. Again though, you shouldn't need a center leg for support if you build your frame properly (don't run the 2x4 frame flat on it's side, but run it vertically to provide stiffness against a sagging middle). You can run the framework between the two benches. If you run it all the way across to the walls then your feet will be too high off the floor when sitting down.

JWL - is your platform hinged or simply drop into place? Also, I like your storage bag on the base of the tower. For dirty shoes? Good use of that space.

Rich

 

[DavidGraves]

JWL

BTW, what year is you shell model ?

Wondering when they started the new style under bench arrangement.

My Hawk Shell is 2012 and has the early style....which I like.

Many thanks

David Graves

 

[ri-f]

Wondering when they started the new style under bench arrangement.

My Hawk Shell is 2012 and has the early style....which I like.

I can tell you that as late as April 2020 the Hawk shell had the top opening lockers. The side opening ones would have started later than that, probably around the beginning of the 2021 model. I also like the top opening lockers for the easier access they provide, at least in my simplistic build. But the side opening lockers may have an advantage if your build includes cabinetry above the side benches. Guess it really depends on how you intend to build it out. Rich

 

[claws]

Well, that kinda throws a monkey wrench into your gears, Kim. You could still run a platform all the way across the top of both side benches and eliminate the need for the cleats you mention. And you could hinge the lid to both of those side benches, so that it could flip up to access the floor storage. That wouldn't interfere with the front drawer access, except that when you needed to get to something you'd have to flip up the platform/lid to access the front drawers. Again though, you shouldn't need a center leg for support if you build your frame properly (don't run the 2x4 frame flat on it's side, but run it vertically to provide stiffness against a sagging middle).

JWL - is your platform hinged or simply drop into place? Also, I like your storage bag on the base of the tower. For dirty shoes? Good use of that space.

Rich

I'll probably go with the full length framed plywood platform Rich. Seems like the only viable option now. What are people using for a mattress/settee pad on these DIY platforms. I'd need something firm enough to support my 230 lbs both setting and sleeping.

Thanks,
Kim

 

[ri-f]

I'll probably go with the full length framed plywood platform Rich. Seems like the only viable option now. What are people using for a mattress/settee pad on these DIY platforms. I'd need something firm enough to support my 230 lbs both setting and sleeping.

Thanks,
Kim

 

[JWL]

Well, that kinda throws a monkey wrench into your gears, Kim. You could still run a platform all the way across the top of both side benches and eliminate the need for the cleats you mention. And you could hinge the lid to both of those side benches, so that it could flip up to access the floor storage. That wouldn't interfere with the front drawer access, except that when you needed to get to something you'd have to flip up the platform/lid to access the front drawers. Again though, you shouldn't need a center leg for support if you build your frame properly (don't run the 2x4 frame flat on it's side, but run it vertically to provide stiffness against a sagging middle).

JWL - is your platform hinged or simply drop into place? Also, I like your storage bag on the base of the tower. For dirty shoes? Good use of that space.

Rich

no it is fixed, I thought about hinging it for access to the cooler but didn’t want it flopping around on rough roads. I put carpet on the cooler box so I can slide it out once I unstrap it.
and yes the bags are for shoes and the dog leash to keep them all out of the way, and to keep from tripping and falling out the door!

 

[ri-f]

It depends, Kim. Are you planning to sleep down below and not use the upper bunk? Usually for a settee you'd want to sit on firmer foam. For a bed, a medium firmness is probably better. Maybe a high-resiliency 3 1/2 - 4" polyurethane foam for the bed (say, with a spec of 2.8 lb/30 ILD). For a settee, and sitting, maybe firmer (40-50 ILD). I'd try to go to a foam shop and try the difference in feel, lying down and also sitting. You'll get a better idea if you try it out yourself. Everyone's different in their comfort level. If you sleep up top, then a set of Froli Traveller springs under the foam mattress would give you a nice bit of extra comfort and an airspace to fight off any damage from condensation on the bottom of your mattress. With a 3 1/2 inch foam mattress and a Froli you could still leave the bedding in place and latch the roof down easily. That said, as you know, I just put carpet over the platform down below and use the Sport a Seats or a Thermarest Luxury Map pad if stealth - Rich

 

[claws]

Thanks yet again Rich. The Froli springs are interesting. I may have found another solution to my platform dilemma. I've been looking at aluminum wheelchair ramps. I think a 6'x30" foldable ramp would easily support my weight and folded in half to 15" wide would work as a settee with the FWC cushions. At a little over 30 lbs it would probably be a little heavier that a plywood/2x4 platform and more expensive. Any thoughts?

Kim

 

[ri-f]

Thanks yet again Rich. The Froli springs are interesting. I may have found another solution to my platform dilemma. I've been looking at aluminum wheelchair ramps. I think a 6'x30" foldable ramp would easily support my weight and folded in half to 15" wide would work as a settee with the FWC cushions. At a little over 30 lbs it would probably be a little heavier that a plywood/2x4 platform and more expensive. Any thoughts?

Kim

I think that's a very interesting solution for you, Kim. I like that idea. if you think the ramp is sturdy enough to not flex too much in the middle. Depending on how high the ramp is for sitting, without your feet dangling a few inches off the floor, you could even put a small folding step on the floor to support your feet. Of course when the ramp is folded in half, your storage space underneath will also be cut in half - something to keep in mind.

Rich

 

[PaulT]

Another possibility might be one of the Harbor Freight folding aluminum ramps.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=aluminum%20ramp

Won't flex too much at 1200 or 1500 lb rating.

Paul

 

[claws]

Another possibility might be one of the Harbor Freight folding aluminum ramps.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=aluminum%20ramp

Won't flex too much at 1200 or 1500 lb rating.

Paul

Thanks Paul. Best price I've seen for one of these, and best load bearing specs as well. Most of the wheelchair ramps I've looked at max out at 600 to 800 lbs.

 

[Sleddog]

I see a couple of issues with the wheelchair ramp as a bed/settee. The ones I see online all have a short side rail that could cause discomfort or pain while getting on and off the bed. And when folded, the back of the ramp doesn't exactly look flat. I think sitting on it would be very uncomfortable without modifications to the ramp or adding plywood backing to your cushions.

My advice is keep it simple and keep it lightweight as possible. Go ahead and assume you will leave this bed/settee in place most of the time. If you actually need to sleep in the camper incognito, having to set up the bed platform with the top down might be a nuisance. It makes a great storage area underneath for totes and it's nice to have a comfortable place to sit. Access to any electrical, turnbuckles, or built in storage cabinet underneath should be simple enough if you keep the platform lightweight and removable.

I finally replaced the old FWC cushions with high density upholstery foam from Amazon that I covered myself. You can order different lengths, widths, and firmness. I chose firm foam (44ILD), 4 inches thick, 24 inches wide, and 72 inches long. You can buy pre-made cushions and cushion covers, but size choices are limited. You can also order custom upholstered cushions online if you can't find any shops locally.

 

[claws]

I see a couple of issues with the wheelchair ramp as a bed/settee. The ones I see online all have a short side rail that could cause discomfort or pain while getting on and off the bed. And when folded, the back of the ramp doesn't exactly look flat. I think sitting on it would be very uncomfortable without modifications to the ramp or adding plywood backing to your cushions.

My advice is keep it simple and keep it lightweight as possible. Go ahead and assume you will leave this bed/settee in place most of the time. If you actually need to sleep in the camper incognito, having to set up the bed platform with the top down might be a nuisance. It makes a great storage area underneath for totes and it's nice to have a comfortable place to sit. Access to any electrical, turnbuckles, or built in storage cabinet underneath should be simple enough if you keep the platform lightweight and removable.

I finally replaced the old FWC cushions with high density upholstery foam from Amazon that I covered myself. You can order different lengths, widths, and firmness. I chose firm foam (44ILD), 4 inches thick, 24 inches wide, and 72 inches long. You can buy pre-made cushions and cushion covers, but size choices are limited. You can also order custom upholstered cushions online if you can't find any shops locally.

Thanks for the post, Sleddog. I am concerned about the side rails as well but am thinking a firm 4" high foam bed pad would alleviate that problem. You're right about the back not being flat because of hinges and aluminum bracing but folding one section up to lean against the camper front wall and sitting on the other half might work but I'd have to do something with the mattress in this configuration. One option would be to remove the hinges and just use 1/2 of the ramp with the side rail to the rear for a settee with the factory cushions but that would defeat the idea of a stealth bed. It's really too bad that FWC changed the bench openings to the side because Rich's idea of a cleat supported 40" platform would have worked great. You are also right about leaving the bed set up permanently. Back to the drawing board I guess. Luckily I have until December to figure this out.

Kim