Mounting a Second Solar Panel On a Hawk

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Wallowa

Double Ought
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Nov 4, 2015
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I have more than enough room on the Yakima rails on the roof of my '16 Hawk to add another 160 w Zamp panel which came with my Hawk.

What is involved in wiring it in and what would be the approximate cost [assuming I had the installation done]? Wished I lived close to FWC in Sacto; but if reasonable, I may have it done in February when I am on the road skiing. Would then need to identify a competent installer on my route.

Having 320 W on roof would definitely give me an edge when off grid in the boondocks and the added weight on the roof when lifting or lowering top would be tolerable.

Thanks and would love to hear from someone that has done this.

Phil
 
Phil,
Not like yours, but I have the factory 100 watt Zamp panel and a factory roof rack so I just cut some 2" 1/8" thick aluminum angle on which to mount the second panel to the roof rack.

Until I replace the 100 watt Zamp with a larger panel, I have just run extension wires to the rear solar socket. It has worked well for me. I use velcro straps to manage the wiring when the top is down. This has worked well for me and required disturbing no seals around the factory installed top and rear Zamp sockets or the original panel's mounting brackets.

I can also parallel in my portable panel into the rear socket as needed.
Paul
 
Paul,

Cool idea and thinking outside the box! Will take the time to scope this out and appreciate the option.

Thanks...Phil
 
Hey, good info....I assume that the "capacity of the solar charge controller" in question is the amperage it can handle, correct?

Iota Q4 in '16 Hawk? I will check it and then try to calculate the amperage that two 160 w panels would actually produce versus the single 160 w FWC OEM panel we now have..

Also, while Reno or Seattle area installers are recommended; we live in far NE corner of Oregon, Enterprise...and traveling to those installers is prohibitive. However I am still planning my anti-virus :cool: W-E ski tour starting in White Pass and ending near Red Lodge or Billings in Feb so if anyone has a trusted installer along that route, please let me know.

Thanks everyone for the support!

Phil
 
The IQ4 doesn’t have a current rating. It just controls the current provided by the Iota DLS-30 which can source up to 30 amps. This current does not go through the solar charge controller. It is a separate charging path.

The Overland Solar 160 watt panel used by FWC produces about 6 amps.
The Zamp 160 watt panel produces about 9 amps at a lower voltage than the Overland Solar

Two Zamp 160 watt panels would produce about 18 amps so your solar charge controller needs to support at least that much. My 2014 Hawk came with a 100 watt Zamp panel and a 15amp Zamp Charge controller. Your camper may have the 30 amp Zamp controller, in which case, you could easily handle two 160 watt panels.

In either case, the Iota doesn’t come into play in your solar calculations.

Paul
 
Paul thanks.

Boy do I feel ignorant...looking at the Iota DLS-30 on-line it is a converter from AC to DC to charge the batteries while the Iota Q4 is the controller; does DLS also act as the charge controller for amps coming from the solar panels?

My portable 80w is a Zamp that I bought with my Hawk [plugs into back of camper jack]; I assume that the roof 160w was also a Zamp.

I will check on what is installed and the amp rating; thought I knew but obviously I do not. If I do have a DLS-30 does that mean I can handle 30 solar amps? Or is the Iota Q4 the limiter?

Appreciate the tutorial!

Phil
 
Actually, the DLS-30 with the IQ4 is the battery charger/power supply for the camper DC circuits like lights, fridge, propane and CO alarms, ceiling fans, furnace etc. that runs off of shore power only. It has nothing to do with solar power.

The solar charging system is used for charging the batteries from solar power only. It is a separate system from the Iota. Both of these systems charge the camper batteries. The batteries are the only components that actually store DC power for use in the dark and without shore power.

There should be a factory installed Zamp solar charge controller, top center in the driver side cabinet, near the sink, that displays voltage, current, and battery state of charge based on battery voltage. On the Zamp unit, you should be able to choose to display volts, amps, or state of charge. In a factory system, that is the only place where digital electrical values are shown. A very coarse and low accuracy representation of battery charge is available, also, on the panel that also shows how much water remains in the tank.

Paul
 
OK got it..

Controller is indeed a "Zamp 30Amp"; and, putting another 160W Zamp on the roof in parallel will double my potential amperage to batteries and my 30 amp controller should handle it with ease.

So as I understand it, the 110ac to charge batteries and power appliances is via the Iota components and the solar charges the batteries only through the Zamp Controller.....hence, given solar input, the main FWC push/pull power switch can be in either position [in or out] and receive solar battery input.. Two separate systems: Iota/Controller.

I think that is it.... :rolleyes:

Phil
 
New issue. I completely missed how much space I have on my Yakima rails aft of the rear vent; a 160W panel would not fit behind that vent using a rail mount like FWC used. I measured a maximum of 22" between the captured nuts in the rail aft of and clear of the rear vent.

Those of you with a Hawk and with two roof vents and two roof solar panels on Yakima rails; how and where did you mount the second panel?

Thanks...Phil
 
Phil, not sure if this is interesting to you, but someone once mounted a solar panel at the rear such that it doubled as an awning... sticking out over the back door....
 
Vic,

Just thinking about PMing you....no thanks on hanging anything off the back or sides....I should be able to find a panel that will fit that existing space aft of the rear vent... what I was going to PM about was the details on the solar controller you use and how difficult would it be to replace my 30 amp Zamp controller...why I am asking is that I found a post from the summer saying that the Zamp controller does not send all of the amps generated at the panel on to the batteries...it is a bottle neck for amps..Victron was recommended and I seem to remember you posting a lot about this controller..is replacing the Zamp with a Victron a straight forward disconnecting Zamp leads and replacing them with Victron leads?

Attacking my desire for more input to batteries when off grid on three levels: More solar amps, improved controller and Blue Sea isolator. Trying like hell to avoid buying and using a generator.

I am not an electrician but can usually logic through....noted today that my existing 160W Zamp FWC plug on roof is a molded affair in roof top and with a single plug receptacle that the panel is plugged into....how to add add another panel in parallel with this existing wiring is a mystery to me.

Phil

Feb 2020 #53 No idea what an "MPPT" controller is.

https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/17868-replacing-an-inefficient-zamp-solar-kit-with-a-overland-kit/page-6
 
FWI A friend added a second panel to his Hawk camper. He bought a 90w panel from Zamp. In addition Zamp sent a "y" cord with the panel. This made the second panel plug and play. I have seen the camper in action and the second panel really helps with power. I am considering doing the same. I own a 2017 Grandby.
 
Dscobell,

Yes, that panel seems to be about all I can fit on the rails...is it possible to have your friend send me a photo and/or description on what type of frame he used to mount on the rails?

Thanks...appreciate the information.

Phil
 
Phil,
I don't know if you considered a foldable solar panel that then gets plugged into the solar plug left of the camper door. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FH85FW9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MW1M1VB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Together they just plug right in, adding another 100 watts.

If you are needing a permanent solar panel mount, this won't be any help. But these two meet all our solar needs and then some.

Tony
 
Thanks! ...I bought the FWC 80W Zamp portable with the '16 Hawk...problem with the portable is sun direction; effectively chasing the vert and horz angle and what to do with it when you are gone if you want to have it when you return...

Hey, no free lunch....will diligently try to put in a second roof top panel..or failing that for winter use go to a generator.

Checked my shocks on the top; 30lbs each....are the 60lb shocks a simple plug into the existing mounting hardware on the top?

Phil
 
Phil what is the distance from vent to back roof edge. Will a panel fit there without overhang? If so the tracks can be extended to the back edge by buying and cutting rails and screwing them to the roof.
 
Pvstoy,

Thanks I did not know that was a possibility...BUT currently I have 22 inches maximum between the two captured nuts in the Yakima rail and the dimensions of the 90W are 58.3 [distance between the rails] / 13.6 wide / 1.5 thick...so I should have enough room and not need to "drill" into the top..."any penetration, no matter how slight" into the exterior siding or top of my Hawk and I blanch and run away....

Must contact Zamp and see exactly how the panel mounts to the rails [my Yakima rails] and if they indeed offer a splitter cable so that I can plug both panels in parallel into the existing FWC solar wire plug on the top...

Thanks again...

Phil
 
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