Mounting FWC to the frame

[Paul B.]

We've been building a camper for awhile now. I've made sporadic and erratic posts and threads. But now it's ready to bolt the camper to the frame through the utility bed. Thinking 2 steel plates 3" x the width of the camper floor. One over the rear axle, another to the front of the camper floor. Spring bolts underneath.

Question is can we bolt it through the plywood floor? (Doesn't seem correct.) Or should we find the aluminum frame and mount through that?

 

[longhorn1]

Just curious why you wouldn't use the FWC attachment points and eye bolts in the bed. The camper floor would hold and wasn't designed for that. jd

 

[Paul B.]

We've been working on this thing for over two years. It's about to be finished. Well it's never finished, but ready to mount the camper. I recall Stan from FWC saying we could bolt it right to the frame. We just might have to open up an interior wall and find a piece of the aluminum camper frame to bolt down through to the frame of the truck. (Likely just answered my own question right there.)

Can't use the regular mounting eyelets as the camper sits right on the utility bed in that area.

 

[JaSAn]

I have my Grandby bolted through the floor right next to the front and rear frames, with a 1/4" X 1.5" clamp going over the frame rail (4 corners). I didn't think it was a good idea to drill a big hole in the frame rail. After two years traveling on some serious washboard, I can see no cracking on the adjacent frame weld or visible part of the frame rail.

Why do you want to bolt to the frame? If your utility bed is strong enough and attached well, bolt to that. That way you attach your camper where its frame has the most support.

And why spring bolts? I want my camper to move with the truck, not independently. So I bolted the camper down tight (but not so tight as to crush the frame rail).

jim

 

[rando]

We have a flatbed fleet, installed by FWC, and they just bolted through the plywood floor and through our tray with some large bolts, fender washers and nylock nuts. So far, so good.

 

[DavidGraves]

Howdy

No particular comment on bolting thru the floor except perhaps to do it near the side walls of the box....and maybe at three points each side depending on what you are bolting too on your truck bed or deck.

Got any photos ?

There is no aluminum framing under the floor to bolt thru....with my 2012 Hawk.

Good luck ...I would be very interested to hear how the floor bolt up works out for you.......considering it myself for various reasons.

David Graves

 

[Paul B.]

I have my Grandby bolted through the floor right next to the front and rear frames, with a 1/4" X 1.5" clamp going over the frame rail (4 corners). I didn't think it was a good idea to drill a big hole in the frame rail. After two years traveling on some serious washboard, I can see no cracking on the adjacent frame weld or visible part of the frame rail.

Why do you want to bolt to the frame? If your utility bed is strong enough and attached well, bolt to that. That way you attach your camper where its frame has the most support.

And why spring bolts? I want my camper to move with the truck, not independently. So I bolted the camper down tight (but not so tight as to crush the frame rail).

jim

I'm trying to envision the 1/4" by 1 1/2 inch clamp. I want to bolt to of the frame because it's a permanent installation and I just don't think turnbuckles are going to work. I don't know how that would work.

I believe Stan from FWC said that if bolted to the frame it would be better. I thought bolting to the frame with spring bolt would allow for frame flex. The truck is an F-350 four-door. I think there's a lot of flex in the frame. I was worried about cracking the camper and Or camper frame.

I will get some pictures up.

 

[Paul B.]

We have a flatbed fleet, installed by FWC, and they just bolted through the plywood floor and through our tray with some large bolts, fender washers and nylock nuts. So far, so good.

That would be very easy. I guess I got caught up during the design phase in worried about flexing and cracking the camper. If we thought it would be okay, maybe mount it that way and just check it often on the first few trips

 

[pawleyk]

I'm trying to envision the 1/4" by 1 1/2 inch clamp. I want to bolt to of the frame because it's a permanent installation and I just don't think turnbuckles are going to work. I don't know how that would work.

I believe Stan from FWC said that if bolted to the frame it would be better. I thought bolting to the frame with spring bolt would allow for frame flex. The truck is an F-350 four-door. I think there's a lot of flex in the frame. I was worried about cracking the camper and Or camper frame.

I will get some pictures up.

You're right on there.. There will likely be tons of flex in the truck frame, there is on our HD Silverado. I think you have a good thing going with the spring bolt idea..

I always figure I'll let things flex if they want, somebody smarter than me probably designed them to do that.

 

[Paul B.]

View attachment 27719View attachment 27720View attachment 27721


Some pictures of the rig as it is right now. Getting ready to bolt down.

 

[Paul B.]

 

[Paul B.]

A pic from when we were cutting up the utility bed to fit the FWC Keystone. Thought I had more pics to share of the process. But it actually wasn't at all complex like some builds I see online.

 

[pawleyk]

Really cool build, you'll love all the extra storage the utility bed gives you.

Totally worth the work to keep your tools and camping gear out of your living room/dining room/kithchen/office.