New Hawk Owner-Roof Question

D

dharte

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2015
Messages
161
Greetings,
I picked up my new Hawk last week and have been getting it prepped for our first camping trip. I installed my Yakima rack which includes two 78" cross bars, two bike carriers and a large basket with kayak rollers. I would estimate the weight of the entire rack set-up (unloaded) at about 75 pounds, and I should add that I also have the roof mounted 160W solar panel and the standard 30 pound roof struts. Once installed, I discovered that it is really hard to lift-I am not a weak person, but it still took me and my son to get the roof up. . I don't think I could do it by myself without killing my back. So a couple of questions: First off, would an upgrade to 40 pound struts make any noticeable difference? Second, I discovered that I could use my old truck bed cargo securing bar that has a ratchet mechanism to "jack" the roof up. It has rubber feet on each end that are about 2" x 3". Would this possibly cause any damage if placed in the middle of the lift support board on the roof? Also if anyone else reading this carries gear (bikes, kayaks, etc) on top, I would love some ideas on the best type of ladder or step system to get and how to carry it without being too obtrusive.
Thanks,
David
 
FWC would be able to tell you the recommended weight for the roof load but I think it is 100lbs. Is it possible to use a hitch mounted bike rack to take the weight off of the roof?
 
There have been several threads on this. Many use a music stand with the arms removed. Hopefully someone can point you to those threads and give some advice. Post a picture of what you are talking about. Congrats on your new camper. Enjoy your travels. jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
 
I can carry up to 4, 27 lb kayaks on Yak tracks with Thule feet & 78" Thule bars on my roof, plus a 26 lb solar panel up front on my Bobcat, All Terrain Camper.

I've got two outside mount 50 lb gas struts on the front and two outside mount 30 lb gas struts on the rear and use the speaker stand with rubber feet, on the lift panels, rear first, then front second, when I'm fully loaded. I reverse the order when lowering, yet still use the speaker stand to lower in a gradual and controlled descent.When not loaded, it's easy to lift or drop the top by myself.

I bit the bullet and purchased one of these very compact 6' folding ladders from Camping World. When folded it measures 4" x 4" x 72" long, a nice neat little package that I can carry strapped under the driver's side camper side extension, just above the truck bed side top. Love it.
 
Thanks for the quick responses! jesmor3, I thought the total load capacity of the roof is 1000 pounds. It seems to me that FWC wouldn't install full length Yakima rails if they didn't think it could handle a good load. I did look into the swing out hitch bike carriers but they are expensive and I already had the roof racks. longhorn1, the bar is for securing cargo in the bed of a truck-it just goes across the bed and has a ratchet mechanism to tighten it. It actually works really well and doesn't take up much room. I can store it next to the upper bunk mattress where I keep the rear canopy. I'm going to look into stronger struts, but something has been bugging me about the overall design of this system-the struts are at a very oblique angle to the direction of lift (vertical). It seems to me these would be much more effective if they were mounted vertically. Alley-Kat, thanks for the link for the ladder-that looks perfect.
 
After looking at the speaker stand option, it would have one advantage over my cargo bar-it would allow me to also slowly lower the roof. Perhaps with a kayak and mountain bikes on top, this could be important. Something else to purchase......
 
Congrats on the new camper. I've had mine since April this year. The best addition I've made to my Hawk for ease of entry and safety is a set of Torklift scissor steps. I run with our bikes on the front of the truck, has presented no issues to date.
 
From the FWC website

"How much weight will the roof hold?

The lightweight aluminum roof will hold 1,000 pounds of evenly distributed weight in the raised position (example: snow load of 1000 lbs.). If you plan to carry luggage, coolers, kayaks, canoes, etc. on the roof, we usually recommend keeping the weight to approx. 100 lbs. (+ or -). The roof has a very strong design, but does have some basic limitations. We offer an aluminum roof rack and also Yakima roof racks for customers that want to carry larger items on the roof that might not fit inside the camper while they are traveling"
 
What Sagebrush posted...100 lb load on roof in transit, but it will withstand a 1,000 lb static load [snow]...lots to think about, higher center of gravity is one, when you load weight up high...plus wind load from side and front with bikes up high.

Of course you damn well can't lower the roof with 1,000 lbs of snow on it! :D

Comment from BC.."200 lbs" could that have been Kilos?

A 6' step ladder? For putting stuff on roof rack? I thought OP was referring to a step ladder to enter the camper...like the folding Rubbermaid mentioned in so many posts..

Do not the steps [if you ordered them] on the rear of the camper provide adequate access to roof rack?

My sea kayaks will require a trailer...but that will be an infrequent event and in the distant future...and then it will probably be an "expedition' style trailer for trips lasting for months with base camps.

Lots to consider but all is good.

Phil
 
Well of course you could lower it with a thousand pounds of snow on it. Just don't leave your head in the way!
 
I had the 30# struts on my Eagle replaced with 40# ones. I have 100w solar on the roof and normally have my Yakima crossbars on with a Rod Vault fly rod holder on them and that makes it much easier for this old man. If I take the crossbars and rod holder off I have to tug a bit to get the front down, so don't go too strong on struts if you have a variable load.

I also have the speaker stand to raise and lower if needed, but since I upgraded my struts I haven't had to use it. I may have to if I have my SOT kayak on top, but I plan to take that off when parked anyway since it partially blocks the solar panel.
 
Wallowa-I was referring to the ladder to access the cargo on the roof. I do have the rear steps but when putting a mountain bike on the rack I would need to load it from the side. The rear steps are bit small and spaced far enough apart where I wouldn't feel comfortable trying to climb up by myself with a bike in my hands. So the question is would I be pushing my luck with two mountain bikes and a large kayak on the roof (total weight with rack about 220 pounds)? I'm not worried about COG with my truck. It rides excellent with the camper on-its an 05' F250 with the slide in camper package which has stronger springs and a beefier rear anti-roll bar.
 
dharte,

Total load on roof of about 220 lbs. I do believe that FWC states that the kinetic, driving down the road, max recommended roof load is 100lbs. What are the consequences of doubling the recommended load? I don't have a clue. Distortion of the top sheet? Call FWC and then let us know what they say.

Good luck!

Phil
 
Update: I decided to load bikes on a rear hitch rack and not hassle with getting them up on the roof. I'll use the cargo basket on the roof for carrying folding chairs and other bulky items. I got a Thule swing away bike carrier, and a hitch extension with built in step from Harbor freight (only $28). With this set-up i can enter the camper without even having to swing the carrier to the side. I did drill a new hole in the carrier hitch so it could slide into the extension further-otherwise it was sticking out way too far behind the truck. I also got a hitch stabilizer (basically a U-bolt) so the step is stable and the bikes don't sway. With the poor weather and hectic work schedule, we still haven't camped in the new camper yet-hopefully soon.
 
I had another thought/question: It seems that if the push boards on the roof had bars (maybe strong pvc pipe) attached so you could actually grab them to lift (or lower), there would be a lot more leverage, and your wrist wouldn't be bent at a 90 degree angle while you try to get that first bit of movement. . I know it would compromise head room a tiny bit, but it would also be a good place to hang things while camping. Has anyone tried this?
 
dharte,

Handles sound like a great idea...multi uses. Low profile cabinet handles perhaps.

Thanks...Phil
 
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