OK I goofed :(

[XJINTX]

I was putting my truck with Hawk back in shop after recent trip cleanup. I can store my Hawk with the top popped up. I unlatched and got in to lift and open up. From front first (won't start front again) I lifted. There was resistance so I pushed harder . Did not go up so got out to check latches. I had somehow missed the side passenger latch. By trying to lift I have actually bent the roof where the latch attaches. Does not look real bad but now that latch will not fasten tight. Looks like I can maybe straighten back out. I may be able to put a board inside and pull down to straighten up.

My question is that I don't want to crack any metal or roof... think I'm OK if I'm careful? I don't have a local dealer here in TX anymore... should I wait until tomorrow and call FWC?

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Is this your only transportation? I wouldn't want to drive it on the highway in this condition, and I would definitely prefer to talk to FWC before I did something that made the situation even worse.

 

[radarcontact]

I was putting my truck with Hawk back in shop after recent trip cleanup. I can store my Hawk with the top popped up. I unlatched and got in to lift and open up. From front first (won't start front again) I lifted. There was resistance so I pushed harder . Did not go up so got out to check latches. I had somehow missed the side passenger latch. By trying to lift I have actually bent the roof where the latch attaches. Does not look real bad but now that latch will not fasten tight. Looks like I can maybe straighten back out. I may be able to put a board inside and pull down to straighten up. My question is that I don't want to crack any metal or roof... think I'm OK if I'm careful? I don't have a local dealer here in TX anymore... should I wait until tomorrow and call FWC?

Here in Jackson Hole we have a FWC rep, and I've seen him personally straighten out more than a few bent roofs. The side latch seems to be the major culprit. I don't have a picture or diagram of what he did, but I can describe it to you...it's not hard to do. Get a piece of 2 x 6 lumber, and cut it down to about 1 to 2 feet in length. Unhinge all your buckles on the roof, and LIFT the roof just enough to slide that piece of lumber underneath the upper lip of the side of the roof where it's bent. You want to stand the piece of lumber on its edge, and you want to position it such that the front edge of the lumber/board is right underneath that bent area. Now, simply apply pressure forward of that area, pull down on the roof steadily and firmly. The roof is aluminum and pliable, it will bend downward and you should be able to straighten it enough that it 1) can be driven to FWC or somewhere else to attend to it further, or 2) it looks good enough that you don't have to do anything else. I've seen Denny at FWC in Jackson Hole do this several times, and it's amazing how good it looks after it's done. Majority of the time the roofs are bent at one of the forward side buckles.

 

[billharr]

I bent my roof on my old 2002 Hawk hitting something with the roof up. I put wood blocks above and below the edge with the roof partly opened. You do need to block or support it to hold it partly open. I used a LARGE 14 inch "C" clamp and gently pressed the roof straight. See the attached picture on blocking the roof. You may have to press a little over as the roof will spring back just a little. Put clamp when the arrows are.

 

[radarcontact]

I drew a little pic of how to do this with the 2 x 6....Bill's idea sounds good, too, and may be more precise. In either case, I think you can get the roof close to what it looked like before the mishap.

Bill, in your diagram, on the underside of the roof, is that two blocks of wood and then a board across them? On the top of the roof you just used a board? Then I guess you put the C clamp on and tightened. I'm thinking you need a big clamp for this? Looks like a great way to accomplish the task.

 

[billharr]

BentRoof.jpg

I drew a little pic of how to do this with the 2 x 6....Bill's idea sounds good, too, and may be more precise. In either case, I think you can get the roof close to what it looked like before the mishap.

Bill, in your diagram, on the underside of the roof, is that two blocks of wood and then a board across them? Yes On the top of the roof you just used a board? Then I guess you put the C clamp on and tightened. I'm thinking you need a big clamp for this? Looks like a great way to accomplish the task.

Yes, just a board on top to spread the pressure. I do have several large over 12" C clamps.

I would be careful pulling on the edge, Too much pressure the alum could move quickly and your bend will be in the opposite direction and may crack the alum tube.

 

[XJINTX]

Radarcontact THANKS... that's exactly what I needed. It's actually what I was planning on doing !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Inshore Chaser]

Another goof (me)! I assume that the 2 x4 on edge will be positioned under the roof lip (molding) and exterior to the soft sides (as opposed to the inside of the camper/soft sides)....correct? Just making sure that the soft side is not damaged.

 

[radarcontact]

Another goof (me)! I assume that the 2 x4 on edge will be positioned under the roof lip (molding) and exterior to the soft sides (as opposed to the inside of the camper/soft sides)....correct? Just making sure that the soft side is not damaged.

Yes, exactly. You want the board on the OUTSIDE of the soft side/shell. As Bill said, the alum. is delicate, so when you pull down, make it a steady and firm pressure, don't jerk or yank on it. You'll see, it will bend slowly and in the direction you want. I think it's a good way to get the roof in the general shape you want...then, if you need some fine tuning, I would try Bill's approach w/the C clamp to get it as smooth as you can.

 

[radarcontact]

Radarcontact THANKS... that's exactly what I needed. It's actually what I was planning on doing !!!!!!!!!!!!

Let us know how it turns out! A lot of folks have done the same thing, i.e., forgot to unbuckle, so any follow-up is good.

 

[pvstoy]

You might want to wrap the lumber with towel or something to protect the liner.

 

[trikebubble]

You might want to wrap the lumber with towel or something to protect the liner.

This is exactly what I did, worked out pretty well. You may want to check the silicone bead on the upper clamp bracket. Mine had peeled away a bit so i just added some fresh stuff to seal it all up again.
These are the little mistakes I find I make once....then fret about forgetting and doing it again every time I open or close the roof for ages to come.

 

[longhorn1]

You Texans have a knack for that. Mark D. did and was able to bend it back. Sounds like you have it under control.[emoji41]

 

[XJINTX]

I used the way RadarContact suggested in his drawing. Another local FWC owner contacted me and said that's how he did it. I was surprised at how rigid it was to straighten back just the little bit I had bent it. Took all my 210 lbs and strength just to bend down that little bit. I, as recommended, rounded the corners of the 2x4 not 2x6 and covered with duct tape to protect the fabric. I certainly hope I will be more careful in the future.

 

[radarcontact]

I used the way RadarContact suggested in his drawing. Another local FWC owner contacted me and said that's how he did it. I was surprised at how rigid it was to straighten back just the little bit I had bent it. Took all my 210 lbs and strength just to bend down that little bit. I, as recommended, rounded the corners of the 2x4 not 2x6 and covered with duct tape to protect the fabric. I certainly hope I will be more careful in the future.

Glad it worked out!

 

[Boxerhead]

Hey everyone I know this post is a couple years old but I did the same thing this past weekend, forgot to unbuckle the front passenger side latch and bent upwards the front right corner. My question is related to Radarcontacts post about placing the 2X6. Is the 2X6 placed on the "inside" so the inside of the roof is actually resting on 2X6 or is the 2X6 placed along the outer aluminum edge. I ask wondering if placing the 2X6 on the "outer edge" would bend it since the edge is thin. Does that makes sense? I have some pics I can post of what my bend looks like if that helps, just like everyone else mine is pretty new and I'm not worried about the top crease because if I can bend the corner back down about an inch you will never see the crease unless you get up on the roof. Any information is appreciated, thanks!!

 

[Jon R]

Noting these experiences, I will now make a personal rule that I will never stop during the process of latching or unlatching. I won’t walk away or interrupt the task unless they all are in the same state. I can see myself eventually making the same mistake without such a practice. It takes enough force to start the lift that there is no way you would feel the latched latch before damage is done.

 

[wicked1]

The day after I got my truck, I drove a short distance to a grocery store. A guy came up and starts asking questions about it.. then says, oh, did you know all your latches are undone? I about pooped myself. luckily it was a slow drive through a residential neighborhood to get there, but that could have been SO bad!
Never made that mistake again. Other people have said to always count to 6. Which I do..
But once must have gotten distracted (I have a 6 year old). I left the front drivers side latch attached, and started opening the top. I started w/ the back, and it was taking more force than I expected, then I heard the latch snap down. There's no damage.. Maybe I had 1/2 unlatched it, so it basically just fell down/off when the back went up.

But yeah.. Apparently this is an easy mistake to make.

Boxerhead,
Yes, people are saying to place the block outside the camper, on the edge.. Right on top of the 'wall' of the camper, basically. I've also been nervous to try, but there are enough people who have fixed there's that I'm willing to try it.

Mine might be bent across the entire top, so I might have to support the middle couple roof beams from the inside, but am not sure yet.

 

[Jon R]

Mine might be bent across the entire top, so I might have to support the middle couple roof beams from the inside, but am not sure yet.

I doubt the middle spars would be bent by an unlatching mistake. I think you’d feel something was wrong before pushing hard enough to bend the middle. The side frame bends immediately because the latch is holding it down. There’s nothing similar to bend the middle unless you lifted it like the incredible hulk.

 

[PaulT]

Someone else here posted an idea that we adopted and that has saved us a time or three. We applied about 1" pieces of Hi-Viz blaze orange tape on the inside of each latch lever such that it is visible with the latch open but not if the latch is closed.

A part of our procedure (besides counting to 6) is to walk around the truck/camper and make sure that there is bright orange visible at each latch prior to attempting to pop the top.

Conversely, part oi the final check before leaving is to walk around the camper/truck and make sure that no blaze orange is visible. Haven't made either mistake since applying the tape.

Paul