Questions regarding "So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper?"

I am not a huge fan of the Power poles, for the same reasons you suggest, no decent panel mount option and only available in two conductor. They also aren't weather resistant in any way and don't have any strain relief on the conductors. That said, better connectors aren't so easy to get. There are a bunch of circular/military connectors that will fit the bill, either from known manufacturers like ITT/Cannon or unbranded ones from Amazon.

If you want 3 conductors, you could also consider an AC power style connector like Smart Plug, just clearly label it!
 
Jon R said:
I used separate connectors. I used an SB50 for the 6awg positive and negative and a flat 4 for the running lights (only using two of the conductors).
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Thanks Jon. That sounds like a pragmatic approach. Did you use the panel mount from Powerwerx for the SB connector?
 
rando said:
I am not a huge fan of the Power poles, for the same reasons you suggest, no decent panel mount option and only available in two conductor. They also aren't weather resistant in any way and don't have any strain relief on the conductors. That said, better connectors aren't so easy to get. There are a bunch of circular/military connectors that will fit the bill, either from known manufacturers like ITT/Cannon or unbranded ones from Amazon.

If you want 3 conductors, you could also consider an AC power style connector like Smart Plug, just clearly label it!
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Thanks rando. Funny that there doesn’t seem to be really common options for this, given that the Orion 12/12-30 is so popular. I was at the Victron “open trailer” event in Denver last week, and they were using SB50 connectors, but not panel mounted.

I used those Amphenol connectors for years with instrumentation, but are they ever expensive, and it’s a challenge to specify and locate just what you need. (The GMD radiotheodolites that I worked with in the 70’s had amphenol connectors with 30+ conductors!).
 
I've seen one member here use the hole in the middle of a PowerPole connector to screw one end to the truck box. I plan on doing the same when I rewire mine later this week.
 
Charlie said:
Thanks rando. Funny that there doesn’t seem to be really common options for this, given that the Orion 12/12-30 is so popular. I was at the Victron “open trailer” event in Denver last week, and they were using SB50 connectors, but not panel mounted.

I used those Amphenol connectors for years with instrumentation, but are they ever expensive, and it’s a challenge to specify and locate just what you need. (The GMD radiotheodolites that I worked with in the 70’s had amphenol connectors with 30+ conductors!).
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It is a bit of a conundrum. We are kind of forced into using the Anderson connectors because no one has come up with a nicely configured/packaged option using better connectors. I also use the amphenol/ITT etc connectors regularly in the lab, and this may be why I am so spoiled by 'nice' connector. But I have used some of the knock versions for home projects (CLINKO to be precise) and they really are pretty good, particularly for the price. But the path of least resistance (ha!) is to use the SB50s for the battery feed and then a normal PP15 power pole for the running lights.
 
Charlie said:
Thanks Jon. That sounds like a pragmatic approach. Did you use the panel mount from Powerwerx for the SB connector?
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Hi Charlie. I intended to eventually mount the SB 50 in the front corner of my bed wall using the Anderson mount. I received my new truck in April and my new Grandby in May, and had a lot to figure out just with mounting, wiring, lithium and solar installation, etc. I just didn’t want to make a hasty decision about cutting holes in the truck and committing to a connector scheme at that time.

I instead have a nicely sleeved and finished pigtail that comes over the front wall of the bed when the camper is installed, and stows under the bed up in the fuel filler neck box when the camper is off. I used the male and female environmental boots for the SB50, which are well designed. The truck and camper pigtails are secured so the connectors don’t lay in the bottom of the bed. At this point I may just stick with the pigtail permanently because the camper will likely be removed and installed only once per year, and the pigtail works fine.

I do like the SB50 connector and boots. You get a positive, weather-tight connection that I suspect will hold up and stay clean long term better than a bed wall mounting arrangement. The boots have caps so the connectors are well protected both when connected and disconnected.
 
Guys, Thanks for all of the information that you have shared in this thread and elsewhere! I am in the process of converting my 2019 Ford F350 and 2018 Alaskan Camper to lithium and upgrading the components to support it (Renogy 50A dc/dc charger, Victron inverter, 200ah lithium batteries)

I'm going to follow your lead on using Anderson connectors to bring my heavier dc/dc lines into the camper between the cab and the bed of the truck. I thought I would also bring lines for running lights up at that same point. The back of my truck has ports for running lights that I would like to preserve for when I'm pulling a trailer when I have the camper on board.

1) Is it better (or even possible) to split the running lights off the existing wires or do I need a completely new set of wires that will follow the path of my new dc lines?
2) Can I use one of the pins on the running lights to connect the ignition communication line that will coordinate my dc charger with the smart alternator on the pickup?

Thanks for your thoughts!
 
Splitting sounds easier and doable.

Yes, any line that only goes “live” when the ignition is on should work for that trigger wire
 
Check out the Anderson Power Pole SBE80, I am not sure how easy it is to get but it looks like a good fit.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Anderson-Power-Products/SBE80HDLRED?qs=yoCgdRjoRtGFj7R1M1bczA%3D%3D


Louis
bMo74 said:
Thanks for taking time to answer my question!

I've spent a silly amount of time looking to see if there is a plug that would combine a high amp connector with pins for the running lights.

The Aussies have something close--combining an Anderson plug receptacle with a 7 pin.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Pin-Flat-Trailer-Socket-with-integrated-50-Amp-Anderson-Plug-LED-Light-/265054194319?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
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I'm not sure which do it, but I am under the impression that later trucks have parallel circuits for their trailer light receptacles. Which means that the trailer lights are NOT on the same fuses as the truck's lights. If that is the case then I would split the lights at the backside of the trailer light receptacle.

Some of the aftermarket receptacles have an "adapter" that connects between the receptacle itself and the wiring going to it that allows for a second receptacle to be mounted in the bed where a fifth wheel trailer would want it to be. Using these parts should result in a robust, water resistant or even water tight solution for camper lighting, be it only clearance lights or everything.
 
ntsqd said:
I'm not sure which do it, but I am under the impression that later trucks have parallel circuits for their trailer light receptacles. Which means that the trailer lights are NOT on the same fuses as the truck's lights. If that is the case then I would split the lights at the backside of the trailer light receptacle.

Some of the aftermarket receptacles have an "adapter" that connects between the receptacle itself and the wiring going to it that allows for a second receptacle to be mounted in the bed where a fifth wheel trailer would want it to be. Using these parts should result in a robust, water resistant or even water tight solution for camper lighting, be it only clearance lights or everything.
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Yes, Curt makes wire bundles just as you describe that tie in via the factory connector on the back of the bumper trailer connector.

The problem with using these for your light connections on late model trucks (at least GM) is that the truck detects a trailer connection and disables features that you may not want disabled when using a camper. I ended up connecting to my truck’s marker light circuit rather than using the trailer circuits for this reason.
 
Jon R said:
My Grandby is due to arrive in mid-May, and I am firming up my electrical power configuration. I have most of the equipment now, but won't have the battery until late April.

I am installing a 200Ah LiFePO battery that will take up nearly 1/3 of the volume of the Grandby battery compartment (battery is 10.5"L x 7.5"W x 12" H). I plan to install a Victron MPPT 100/30 and Orion 12/12-30 in that compartment on the side wall opposite the door. I was planning to put the Orion above the solar charger, with the top of the Orion 4 inches below the top of the compartment. I could swap the position and put the Orion in the low position. The compartment will have about 1.5 cubic feet of remaining open volume with the battery and the two chargers installed, with most of that open volume around the chargers. However, there is no ventilation other than a tiny exterior vent and leakage around the door foam seal. Do you think the Orion will have the self-throttling issue in this environment?
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Jon - I am curious about this post now because I am currently planning to install a 170Ah LiFeO battery along with a Victron Orion 12/12-30 DC-DC charger inside my Hawk battery compartment. Have you had any issues with heat buildup while using your DC-DC charger? What did you end up doing to improve ventilation (if anything)? I have been thinking about either adding a 12Vdc fan or modifying the door to include vents.

Also, are you happy with the Orion 12/12-30 DC-DC charger? Would you consider something else if you were doing it again? My current plan is to only charge my battery when the truck is running using the DC-DC charger.

Piet
 
The Orion 30A charger has been working really well for me. It is surprising how hot it gets compared to the other Victron components.

I added ventilation holes and 75cfm fan to keep it cool. The fan is controlled by a 45*C thermistor that i placed loosely between the cooling fins.
 
Utah said:
Jon - I am curious about this post now because I am currently planning to install a 170Ah LiFeO battery along with a Victron Orion 12/12-30 DC-DC charger inside my Hawk battery compartment. Have you had any issues with heat buildup while using your DC-DC charger? What did you end up doing to improve ventilation (if anything)? I have been thinking about either adding a 12Vdc fan or modifying the door to include vents.

Also, are you happy with the Orion 12/12-30 DC-DC charger? Would you consider something else if you were doing it again? My current plan is to only charge my battery when the truck is running using the DC-DC charger.

Piet
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Hi Piet,

I never ended up doing any ventilation modification to my battery compartment. The Orion has been working fine for me and I have not been aware of it cutting back the charging current due to high temperature. On the other hand, I don’t end up using it for long periods in warm weather because I have 400 watts of solar panels and in warm weather the solar keeps up. I have remembered to check the Orion’s surface temperature a few times at rest stops when charging and it was warm but did not seem excessively hot.

I am happy with the Orion and recommend it to others.

I still may make a ventilated compartment door, but primarily to keep the compartment warmer in winter camping.
 
Jon R said:
Yes, Curt makes wire bundles just as you describe that tie in via the factory connector on the back of the bumper trailer connector.

The problem with using these for your light connections on late model trucks (at least GM) is that the truck detects a trailer connection and disables features that you may not want disabled when using a camper. I ended up connecting to my truck’s marker light circuit rather than using the trailer circuits for this reason.
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What sorts of features get disabled?

This whole epidemic of "we know better than you do what you should have and not have" programming, even if correct, really gets under my skin. I'm going to step off my soap box before I really get started.......
 
Rear parking assist (warning as you get close to something) and rear cross traffic alert both are disabled if the truck thinks a trailer is connected (2021 GMC 3500hd). Both alerts are very useful if a bed-length camper is installed and they work fine.

I don’t think it’s so much a nanny-engineer thing as it is a trailer-causes-false-alerts-so-let’s-turn-it-off thing.
 
Regarding LiFePO4 battery maintenance and life, should I be thinking about my new battery differently? Converting now to LiFePO4. I have trained myself to charge my old AGM batteries at every opportunity when traveling (no solar, charging from truck). I also have topped them off with an external charger after each trip and then every month or so when my camper is just sitting in the garage. Do I understand correctly that LiFePO4 batteries do not like to be left sitting at 100% SOC? Should I aim to have the battery at a lower SOC when I arrive home from a trip and the camper will be parked in my garage for a while? If so, what would be the maximum SOC? (Note - I use a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor in the camper).

Appreciate any member comments...

Vic - this thread (and others) have been a great resource. Thanks for organizing.
Jon - thanks for your reply.
 
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