roof lifting helper shocks thingys

I should have added that on the bottom front brackets I used 3/16 pop rivets rather han screws.I didn't want the screws sticking through into the matress area.Use blind end rivets if you can find them, they are more waterproof.
Dsrtrat


what about the sheet metal screws in the top .will the pointed ends touch the liner?i thought i might use round head screws and nuts for the top.i am expecting the parts today or tomorrow.i will post the work.thanks frank
 
I used 1" self tapping screws, and I did not see any screws sticking through the lining or the mattress area. Maybe lucky, or just plain good
rolleyes.gif
 
what about the sheet metal screws in the top .will the pointed ends touch the liner?i thought i might use round head screws and nuts for the top.i am expecting the parts today or tomorrow.i will post the work.thanks frank


Please keep us post on how it goes. Thanks.
 
well the parts came today and installed the shocks,zip zap didn't take long.its about an hour job.i installed them just like scotts but i think i will move the front lower bracket up higher on the frame.the top wants to raise it self there isn't enough weight without the canoe to keep it down so after i lower the front i have to go out side and hook one of the roof clampe in the front.not a problem but i think i will try a different angle.on the rear the angle is not as great so it takes a little push to get it started.all in all its a good mod to have it makes the going up so much easier.i haven't tried it with the canoe in place may be over the weekend i'll experiment with some different push angles.all we have to lose are some extra holes but they can be filled with a screw.speaking of which i used #10 - 3/4" stainless philips head screws and dap marine silicone in the holes and some under the brackets.i was able to use one each of the original roof screws on the upper brackets the spaceing was perfect.don't know if that is the same on other campers its worth a shot.saves drilling extra holes and easy to find the right location.hope this all makes sense .more later.frank
 
I'm curious to see if screws hold up over time. I'd be inclined to bolt them on myself. Love that you guys are testing this stuff out for me. By the time I actually need to install some we'll know for sure what stands the test of time :cool:
 
Glad to be a GINNY-Pig. I installed the off set brackets and now the struts clear the roof drip edge.
 

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Glad to be a GINNY-Pig. I installed the off set brackets and now the struts clear the roof drip edge.


thanks for being the ginny pig.my bobcat roof edge doesn't have the same drip line so i used just a flat bracket.over the door i did trim away some of the edge of the frame so the brackets fit flush.will post pics later.frank
 
thanks for being the ginny pig.my bobcat roof edge doesn't have the same drip line so i used just a flat bracket.over the door i did trim away some of the edge of the frame so the brackets fit flush.will post pics later.frank


here is my installation.much the same as the others.i do think that the angle of the rear lifters if it was different it could exert more lift but the whole way they are attached would have to be changed.thanks for all who have contributed to this.frank
 

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Looks great Frank... Now I am motivated to relocate my struts from the inside to the outside front. My ? to you guys did you install the front struts with the camper on the truck or off. my camper has never been off of my truck and it is a long reach to the front.
 
here is my installation.much the same as the others.i do think that the angle of the rear lifters if it was different it could exert more lift but the whole way they are attached would have to be changed.thanks for all who have contributed to this.frank


Very slick, Frank! Let us all know how your installation holds up over time.
 
Looks great Frank... Now I am motivated to relocate my struts from the inside to the outside front. My ? to you guys did you install the front struts with the camper on the truck or off. my camper has never been off of my truck and it is a long reach to the front.


like yours my camper is always on the truck.its easy on the front locate the lower brackets in the center.this i did by measuring between the roof clamps.than raise the roof and place the other bracket where it falls on the upper section,make sure the shock is fully extended.i also attached the brackets to the shocks before mounting that way you know where they are to be placed.if you don't have any extra weight on the front roof,solar,ect.you might experience the roof wanting to raise itself when its unlatched this may not be a problem but if you are by yourself it may be tricky.i thing i will keep a bungee handy inside to keep the front from self lifting.it won't be a problem when i have the weight of the canoe on the rack.to answer the ? i just stood on the hood of the truck and worked from there no problem.if you want place a towel or blanket over the windshield and hood to protect that area.hope this helps you with your installation.you might be able to use the same brackets from the inside to the outside.if not i used part #p67-00203 they are black.the company i ordered the parts from is suspa.com this may be the same product as the shocks you have.what is the force of the shocks you now have inside? the 40# seems to be the one of choice.if i were not carrying anything on the roof i would go to a 30#,but i didn't search to see if they offer that in the 36" shock.good luck.hope i was some help. frank
 
Very slick, Frank! Let us all know how your installation holds up over time.


i will keep you all posted about how things hold up.as far as weather i keep the camper covered during non use.partly for the rain and and fog as i live a few miles from the great pacific pond,but also where i park the truck there is a cypress tree near that drips sap onto the roof.if there is a problem with weathering i can always snap the shocks off the camper when not in use and store them inside. its so easy to remove them. frank
 
well i tested the new mods with the canoe on its rack.my canoe with the things traveling with it (paddles life jackets you know the stuff) is about 60#+ so the lifters do there job,with about the same effort in lifting with no load no shocks.so they really make a difference.without the canoe to keep the front from lifting by itself i have a bungee inside that keeps the top from going up wile i lift the back.boy its a piece of cake.i was going to get them as an option but decided no i'll try lifting without the extra help.i still carry the roof lifting lever i made just in case i'am out and about and to pooped to pop.have a good week end.frank
 
Well it was supposed to rain tonight and possibly this week so I was forced to complete my installation. I lifted the top and removed the screws holding the struts on. I applied silicone to all the holes and around the screw heads, and re-fastened them.
Now, let it rain, let it rain, let it rain.

My next project will be checking into those collapsable steps that mount to the outside of the camper. Might make it a bit easier getting in and out. If anyone has any info on that , please let me know.
 
Well it was supposed to rain tonight and possibly this week so I was forced to complete my installation. I lifted the top and removed the screws holding the struts on. I applied silicone to all the holes and around the screw heads, and re-fastened them.
Now, let it rain, let it rain, let it rain.

My next project will be checking into those collapsable steps that mount to the outside of the camper. Might make it a bit easier getting in and out. If anyone has any info on that , please let me know.




Scott, if you are talking about the aluminum scissor steps, they are definitely the way to go. Much better than the two or three step freestanding rubbermaid step-stools IMHO. Once mounted they won't fall over, so I like the fact they attach and won't move when I have to get up in the middle of the night. :unsure:

Paul
 
Well, finally got my struts installed this weekend...There's also a set on the front, but forgot to take picture and it's dark out now. They work great!!
 

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After installing Suspa gas springs externally on my Fleet front and rear, I discovered that I could not get the front top to come down all the way. Too much force with two 40lb springs at the front. It keeps popping up also.The rear is ok with two gas springs. In fact works perfectly. So I contacted Suspa, which has great customer support and was given the part number for similar springs but in a 30 lb force version. C16-22241. Great I thought, that was easy. So going to the suspa website and plugging in the part numbers, I am shocked to see that the 30 lb versions are not $20 like the 40lb versions but are $90 each. OMG! Is this a mistake? No Suspa confirms they are $90 each because they are not a normally stocked version and are made up on demand. Also takes 3 weeks to get them. So if anyone comes up with a reasonably priced 30lb version of the springs please let us know. Otherwise I am going to be driving around with one spring on the front of my Fleet or two springs and a pair of 4 x4s on the roof. Or perhaps always carrying my canoe around. Seemed like a good idea at the time.
 
nixfwc,
why don't you try mounting something on the top of your camper? Perhaps a solar panel, or rack? Or if you want to get extreme, perhaps a statue of some kind, like the traveling gnome (sorry, I couldn't help myself on that last one).
Seriously though, I have to pull the front of mine down the last few inches or so, but it stays down. Maybe you could rig a bungee on the inside to hold the lever that locks the front up, down so it cant continue lifting while you hatch it down on the outside. Cheaper than $90.00
 
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