Running lights...Running lights...Running lights!

[Old Crow]

This is getting better and better. The Wago in this case is the 222 series--- called a LeverNut. (The one joining the roof and rear-wall solar-port wires is from the 773 series and is called a 'Wall-Nut Pushwire' connector). We can see the differences in these two reviews: Wall-Nuts Lever-Nuts.

This means one can just flip up a lever on the Lever Nut connector shown in deezlgeezer's photo to easily remove one of the small green wires. If removing it changes the circuit's voltage reading back to normal, that's the leg with the problem. If pulling the first doesn't do it, put it back and try the other.

For anyone interested in running a test of running-light legs from a separate 12-volt source, the removed wire also provides a stripped end for that (but you'd also have to think through how the circuit get's back to the negative post on that separate 12-volt source).

The Lever-Nut also provides a way to tell which running lights are powered by which wire. On a camper with a working set of running lights, remove a wire from the Lever-Nut to see which lights go out and which stay on. I'd try that but my Hawk was built before running lights were required for campers over 80" wide so it just has reflectors.

PS-- another thing to note about the Wago connectors: They have test ports. It's just an access hole to the little buss inside the connector but it's an easy way to measure voltage at the Wago connector.

 

[deezlgeezr]

UPDATE: Found the problem....

I figured out that the issue was with the running lights power supply wire inside the umbilical harness. I exposed and examined the inside of the harness and located a butt splice connector which wasn't properly installed (connecting the male Attwood plug blue wire to the camper's green wire). My solution is to obtain three new butt splice connectors, three heat shrink weatherproofing wire seals and re-do the entire connection. I'll update again once THE LIGHTS ARE ON!!!

Many thanks to the folks who chimed in with ideas and schematics (thx OC)!

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Congrats and well done.

 

[Old Crow]

Just adding a photo of the Attwood female connector with the door open to document pin usage....



(The photo came from Stan's post here. I cropped it a bit and added the text)

Testing notes--

- Be careful not to short the pins together while touching them with the meter/tester's probe (to avoid sparks. rapid heating of the probe, etc.)

- The running lights pin (lower right) has (+12) power only when the truck's parking lights are on. The camper's running-lights circuit is an extension of the truck's parking lights circuit. (The camper's battery and fuse panel have no role in that circuit.)

- The lower-left pin is connected to the truck battery's positive post and should have power all the time. If not, there could be a wiring problem somewhere along the white wire between the (female) Attwood connector and that post. Or a problem with the butt-splice or ring connectors. Or the thermal fuse in the white wire (near the positive post) is tripped or bad (if tripped, it should reset itself upon cooling).

- The top pin is a direct path to the truck battery's negative post (via black wire). If any problems with it, most likely culprits are the ring-terminal at the post or the butt-splice connector near the Attwood.

- The wire colors of the leads in both male and female Attwood connectors are black=negative, yellow=positive, blue=running lights.... but those colors are only seen within six inches of the connectors (for two of them). FWC connects the yellow wire to a white one for positive, the black to a black one for negative, and the blue wire to a green one for running lights.
.

 

[deezlgeezr]

Excellent writeup OC!! TY!!