Solar Install completed - thanks to members on this forum.

[leadsled9]

Using information from this forum, I completed my solar install today. I found a 120 watt solar panel ($222) that only weighs 20 lbs.
I thought it was a misprint but I weighed it and it was 20.08 lbs.

I went with an MPPT controller that has a remote meter and a remote temperature sensor for the battery. The controller is user programmable for 4 different types of batteries (gel, sealed, agm and flooded). The meter mounts flush with the front of the cabinets.

I know you guys like pictures so here goes.

 

[leadsled9]

More pics.....

 

[leadsled9]

few more...

 

[leadsled9]

Last pics....

Any questions just ask.

 

[brett13]

Nice work. Did you punch through the roof to bring the wire in?

 

[leadsled9]

Nice work. Did you punch through the roof to bring the wire in?


Hi brett13. Thank you for your input for this project.

The solar wiring was done at the factory at the time of the build but I had no idea where the wiring terminated in the roof. On a recent visit to FWC I requested that the factory guys locate the wire in the roof and install a plug. That made it a snap to install the roof panel. The wiring terminated below the cabinet area.

 

[randygirl]

Thanks for the write up. I don't have the pre wiring in my 2002 Hawk, so I am hoping it won't be too complicated!!

Pulling the trigger today for the Mppt controller and an 80 watt panel.

I'll let you know if I have questions!

 

[RobNE]

that seems like a great price for a 120W panel, where did you get it?
Rob

Using information from this forum, I completed my solar install today. I found a 120 watt solar panel ($222) that only weighs 20 lbs.
I thought it was a misprint but I weighed it and it was 20.08 lbs.

I went with an MPPT controller that has a remote meter and a remote temperature sensor for the battery. The controller is user programmable for 4 different types of batteries (gel, sealed, agm and flooded). The meter mounts flush with the front of the cabinets.

I know you guys like pictures so here goes.

 

[randygirl]

solarblvd.com

Their prices are great.

I am now looking at the same panel.

 

[leadsled9]

Thanks randygirl for your help too. Yes, that's the place. Solar Blvd.

I was looking at the panel for some time....then last week the price dropped $50 over the weekend....and I couldn't take it any more. This panel weighs maybe a pound more than most of the 80 watt panels I was looking at. It seemed to be a nice panel and the extra watts couldn't hurt.

I wanted the extra capacity so I could run a 12v fridge in the future if I decided to go that route. It's nice to have future options available.

If you look at the picture of my roof....there is damage from tree limbs on the middle drivers side and in the front on the passenger side. I centered the panel as an attempt at protecting it from overhead obstacles.

I purchased two sets of mounting legs. One set was the standard "Z" legs for a permanent mount into the roof. I also purchased (and used) the "L" legs. After looking at the situation...the "L" legs seemed the way to go due to their stout design. If I decide later to just drill holes in the roof and mount the panel I have the "Z" legs in reserve. Right now I am happy with the panel mounted below the Yak bars....as they offer a little protection.....and the mounting system is bomb proof. Sort of overkill...but I like things that way. I used empty casings from a .44 magnum as a cookie cutter to cut the holes in the rubber material for shock absorption on the legs. The 3/8" bolt used to mount the panel to the Yak mount just seemed so much more sturdy than the #10 sheet metal screws used to mount the "Z" legs to the roof. I didn't even have to drill any holes in the panel as there were already holes in just the right place.
.

 

[leadsled9]

I purchased some 10 awg (I know...overkill) wire from Solar Blvd to complete the battery wiring. I zip tied it and the temperature sensor wire to the existing factory wiring over the water tank to reach the battery. They have the two-strand (red and black) 10 awg wire encased in a tough outer sheath.

http://www.solarblvd...oduct_info.html

Here are a couple of pics of the wiring over the water tank.

 

[leadsled9]

that seems like a great price for a 120W panel, where did you get it?


Here's the link. Note the markdown. It dropped $50 more last weekend. These panels were originally 600 smackers!

http://www.solarblvd...oduct_info.html

 

[randygirl]

Ok, I went for it, bought the 120 watt panel for $222.

When I called solarblvd, they only had 3 left at that price, so I got one of them. That leaves 2 for the taking!!

leadsled, thanks for all the info. There is a marine store down the street that I plan to buy the 10awg wire from. Also need to see when I get it what I will need for mounting. Haven't decided yet how that will work.

I forsee some calls to FWC in my future!!

 

[leadsled9]

Ok, I went for it, bought the 120 watt panel for $222.

When I called solarblvd, they only had 3 left at that price, so I got one of them. That leaves 2 for the taking!!

leadsled, thanks for all the info. There is a marine store down the street that I plan to buy the 10awg wire from. Also need to see when I get it what I will need for mounting. Haven't decided yet how that will work.

I forsee some calls to FWC in my future!!


Congrats randygirl! This is a fun project.

FWC uses a in-house fabricated "Z" mount that runs the full length on both front and back of the panel...and mounts the panel with six #10 sheet metal screws (using 1/8" starter bit). I was at the factory a couple of weeks ago and got to inspect a solar install that they just completed on a Hawk.

 

[brett13]

Question: If using the Z mount so that two sides of the rectangular panel will be solid from the panel to the roof, is it better to have the open sides in the front/back or on the sides? I'm thinking open in front/back to allow airflow over and under the panel instead of collecting bugs on the front and adding resistance. Thoughts?

 

[leadsled9]

Question: If using the Z mount so that two sides of the rectangular panel will be solid from the panel to the roof, is it better to have the open sides in the front/back or on the sides? I'm thinking open in front/back to allow airflow over and under the panel instead of collecting bugs on the front and adding resistance. Thoughts?


FWC has it mounted front/back. There is no air flow....but there is also no lift when you are driving 75 mph into 30 mph head wind. I don't think these things need much airflow. I'd be more concerned about vibration loosening up the screws and the panel flying off while I'm headed down the freeway.

 

[leadsled9]

Ok, I went for it, bought the 120 watt panel for $222.


Did you also purchase the remote meter and remote temperature sensor?

 

[brett13]

Did you also purchase the remote meter and remote temperature sensor?

What does the temp sensor do? Won't the controller automatically not overcharge the battery?

 

[randygirl]

Did you also purchase the remote meter and remote temperature sensor?



No, I only got the MPPT controller and the panel. Don't want to get to techy with all that stuff. I barely understand what I'm getting into with this.

What are the advantages of the temp sensor and remote meter?

 

[leadsled9]

No, I only got the MPPT controller and the panel. Don't want to get to techy with all that stuff. I barely understand what I'm getting into with this.

What are the advantages of the temp sensor and remote meter?



I think this will answer both of the above questions.

The remote mount meter is essential for you to monitor what is going on with your system. The little led lights on the controller would be good enough to get a rough idea of whats going on....but since we are mounting the controller behind the wood paneling (I assume you are going to mount in the same place that FWC mounts them when doing a factory install) you can't see the controller. Therefore, you would have no idea what is happening. The meter is the only clue from the inside that the camper has a solar system. It is the only visible component from inside.

The meter is really cool. I can see how many volts/amps the panel is providing to the controller, the battery voltage, the watts being used etc. It's nice to know what is going on. For instance....right now my camper battery is fully charged..the watts displayed are 0. When I turn my stereo on I then see that 12 watts are being provided...turn on the fantastic fan and 30 watts are being provided, etc. The meter also provides for system diagnostics so you can troubleshoot problems. It's a really nice unit for what they charge.

The controller uses the battery temperature as a factor in calculating the best charge profile for your battery (hot less juice, cold more juice etc.). Since the controller is phyically mounted in a different location than the battery....the temperature of the battery could be different than the temperature at the controller. Maybe it's not enough difference to effect things much....or maybe it is....the manual for the controller strongly recommends the remote temperature sensor for applications where the controller is not mounted where the battery is located.