This old Granby build

Thanks MDM54,You're right about the home sewing machine not taking #69 thread(i tried),that pucker is probably about 1",I was a little apprehensive splitting it but it makes sense to split in several places along the back up to the seem,at the time it just seemed that corner would be less noticeable.I have less than $100 in that liner with probably enough VCP to do another one.I'm looking at an old Kenmore heavy duty sewing machine,so I won't do that one over again but I may make another one and this time I'll sew the screens ,clear and covers in first then cut the windows.I think this one will have to do for now.It's not that hard to take the liner off if I do it the way FWC originally did and not tuck it under the roof.This whole things been a real learning experience.These campers are a really simple design and it shouldn't be "rocket science"making things fit together but at times I feel like it is..
 
This conversation had me thinking about the seams. Since the thread is rather thick in dia. do people use seam sealer on the little holes to prevent any water from coming in? I haven't noticed any but you can see little holes in some places. I've not heard of any seam sealers being used.
 
My old liner must have leaked a little over the years especially around the lift panels because they got damp and rotted but I've been though many rain storms and I never saw it leak.There was never any seem sealer on it.I'm going to put some on this liner.I've used seem sealer a lot on different tents.If you mix Mineral spirits with Clear silicone until you can put it on with a small brush,that's basically the same as you buy,now it does stay tacky to a certain point but its always been fine on silnylon tents..
 
When it rains it pours!! Here's the back of my frame,i thought it looked odd popped up

Other than take it all apart,I thought I would use 1/8" angle on top bolted through and 1/8" along the front which I didn't do yet.
I guess worst case'It'll make a nice truck cap!!
 
Enjoyed following your work. I would suggest a 1x2 angle (you might have to order it). Or go to a local sheetmetal or HVAC shop and have them bend you a angle (or "U") large enough to cover the broken tube. I think pop rivets every two inches top and front (plus bottom if "U") would give you all the strength you would need.
 
The old alum. is so thin,it crushes very easy,I put 4- 1/4" bolts down though the top,I didn't use any pop rivets and I'm still going to put something along the front but I haven't decided what yet.Those pop up panels that I made are of concern to me because the front one doesn't "pop" like it's supposed to when I push it in place,so it could fall very easy and neither did the back one but thats because of the break,and they still never laid down like they were supposed to.I'm racking my brain trying to figure some kind of Conduit bend that will work,similar to that Phoniex design or maybe even a 2 piece like the popup panels only using conduit pipe....
 
Got a lot of work done on it this weekend,I got the liner all tucked in,I have a couple puckers here and there but turned out alright.
I finally did it I did away with the pop up panels and used 3/4" conduit.I still need to clean these up but I'm real happy how it turned out.
I did the same fold out as the panels.
here's the back,
Front,
and the fold down,
I still need to put some kind of extension handle on them that's why those rings are there..
 
Looking forward to how the lift pipes work out for you. A lot simpler than the panels. Will you add any lift assist?
 
I was thinking about using 30lb gas struts as assists,and probably will.i just want to find out what kind of brackets everyone is using,straight,off set or what.
 
I still have a lot of work to do but those panels were really stressing me out because this old camper is twisted somewhere an the lift panels was not letting that roof sit right,these bars I seem to have a little wiggle room..
 
I learned a lot making that liner (1) sew the screens and windows first then cut the windows out (2) make it about 6" wider than you need it ,you can cut that off after the trim strip goes on. My old liner was 26" wide and that's what I made this one but that didn't leave me enough room room to grab and pull on it to make it real tight.I only have about $100 in that 18oz VCP and once I get this all done and in use next year I may do that part again.
 
Those lift bars look good! I've never seen that before. I can't see those rotting out anytime soon, especially if aluminum conduit was used, I like it. I too have an old grandby that needs some work, one of the previous owners did a botch job on the canvas and the front lift panel, functional but shaky at best. I can see myself doing something very similar to your build in the near future. I hope you get your frame issues sorted out.
 
Creative solution to your problem. Good work! I'm wondering if, since you no longer have the spring tension and the diagonal bracing provided by the original panels, the roof is vulnerable to collapse in high wind loads. You might test it by pushing on the raised roof from different directions. Adding the spring-loaded lifting struts would help that problem somewhat. You could also add a pin or clamp where the conduit pieces overlap so they can't separate once the roof is up. I've often thought the lifting panel design could be rethought once the lifting struts are added, which most everyone is doing these days. Thanks for posting your project- helps us all learn from new ideas.
 
Those bars seem pretty stable,I have them pinned when popped up.The back is great cause you're standing right there and you can get a good hold,the fronts going to have to have some sort of handle cause of the leverage of standing back because of the bed.I'm going to put some struts on as soon as I figure what brackets to use.I don't think I could ever use those lift panels with the way the back was cracked and bent. Had I seen that damage before I got so far,I would've built a new back.I work at a high school with a great welding shop, they welded up the front for me and I'm sure they would've done the back had I asked before school was out for summer.I think my buddy I gave it to had dropped it cause the roof wasn't closing when I got it back...
 
WV: As far as the roof helper lifty thingys goes, there is a long thread on here and part numbers and sources are listed. I used the offset brackets and 30lb, 36" cylinders. BTW, I took out the FWC lift panes all together and rely solely on the cylinders to lift the roof. I think with the cylinders and your lift panels, you would be fine. YMMV.
 
Thanks guys I'm going to order some struts this weekend of that auction site and I think I'm going to try 1/4" off sets brackets.One of my concerns were that I wanted to put an awning on the back so I have to make room for that with these struts.I would like to see a pic with the awning out with the rear struts....I was really hoping to have it done by next week end but unfortunately it won't be ....
 
Any update on the lift panels/tubes? Also, I put my struts on the sides just in case I wanted to put an awning on the back, over the door.
 
Dusty Roads said:
Any update on the lift panels/tubes? Also, I put my struts on the sides just in case I wanted to put an awning on the back, over the door.
Click to expand...
What he asked. I've almost convinced myself to overhaul my Grandby and want/need to do something to my lift panels. I'm convinced some of my canvas wear came from it pinching between the lift panels when popped down. I'm wanting to consider your approach.
 
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