Adding a lithium Ion battery to FWC
- Thread starter cdbrow1
- Start date
Got new isolator (160amp - overkill) installed tonight. I still need to program it, which will require some fine tuning and trial and error. I also need to figure out where I am going to mount the control panel for it. I did confirm the manual "link and "unlink" commands work - so that is a step forward, it also has a "touring" mode (automatically switching - based on programmed voltages) and a "home" mode (nice feature I am not using). The Surepower isolator looked fine when I got it out and it appears to be a quality unit. I am not sure why it was having such a hard time, but perhaps the LiFePo4 battery was just causing it confusion.
Pretty busy this week and I am not planning to camp this weekend so I will post an update when I can.
Pretty busy this week and I am not planning to camp this weekend so I will post an update when I can.
FYI the IOTA fully charged the LiFePo4 battery from 60% to 100% in under 2.5 hours (+46AMPs). The LiFePo seems to have no problem taking AMPs in or putting them out when I need them. The discharge rate of 88amps, sustained for 6 minutes or more, when I use the microwave is astounding to me. I don't know how many Lead deep cycle batteries that would take, but it sure would weigh a LOT more.
I think I have the bugs all licked (knocking on wood). I replaced the wiring today from the battery to just short of the Atwood plug. I used the 2 gauge wire I had on hand (I thought it was 4 gauge earlier). Charging rates shot way up - high of 29 amps (sustained) at idle.
Driving with fridge on full cool the battery stays between 98-100 percent full.
Used microwave and dropped battery to 94. Recharged to full in under 30 miles of driving.
New isolator is functioning as advertised.
In short the only mods I have made (that worked) has been replacing the FWC wiring and replacing the isolator. I have no idea if my isolator was a dud or if it just can't handle the LiFiPo battery. The Xantrex is not required, but it sure is useful.
I am planning some longer trips this month. I will post again when I have more test nights under my belt.
Driving with fridge on full cool the battery stays between 98-100 percent full.
Used microwave and dropped battery to 94. Recharged to full in under 30 miles of driving.
New isolator is functioning as advertised.
In short the only mods I have made (that worked) has been replacing the FWC wiring and replacing the isolator. I have no idea if my isolator was a dud or if it just can't handle the LiFiPo battery. The Xantrex is not required, but it sure is useful.
I am planning some longer trips this month. I will post again when I have more test nights under my belt.
billharr
Senior Member
This thread got me to wire around the isolator in the camper and just use the one I have under the hood. I never removed it when I got the 2013 Hawk and had both in line. Will see how it works tomorrow when we head to the east coast.
What gauge wire did FWC run to the battery and how long a run is that? I plan to install my own electrical and was wondering if the run was hard to do. Jim, I'm a technician not a car mechanic! lolcdbrow1 said:
Also how long did you run the microwave to get to 94%? I want a microwave and small coffee maker..... If I gotta fit my life into the bed of my truck (okay when I get it) then I need a few amenities
enelson
Senior Member
Have you noticed any drop in fuel mileage per gallon due to the alternator loading?cdbrow1 said:
FWC uses 10 gauge wire. It seems high quality wire, but it just cannot move that many amps. Running the wire was easy, but that was on a GMC 2500 - there is a lot of free room to work with.Happyjax said:What gauge wire did FWC run to the battery and how long a run is that? I plan to install my own electrical and was wondering if the run was hard to do. Jim, I'm a technician not a car mechanic! lol
Also how long did you run the microwave to get to 94%? I want a microwave and small coffee maker..... If I gotta fit my life into the bed of my truck (okay when I get it) then I need a few amenities
I ran the microwave for 5 minutes. I loose about 8% for 6 minutes of run time (650 watt microwave).
Drove to LA and back this weekend and boondocked out in the middle of nowhere one night. Everything worked really smooth. Fridge kept everything cold - even ice cream for three days. Battery was full when I left and the lowest I saw was ~50% on Friday morning after camping. Battery was full when I got home. System seems pretty rock steady and predictable at this point.
I will be down for some medical stuff for a few weeks after April 10th - but I might sneak in one more trip before then.
I will be down for some medical stuff for a few weeks after April 10th - but I might sneak in one more trip before then.
Thought I would post another update.
I had triple hernia surgery in early April (planned - not emergency) which obviously meant I have not been using the camper for the last three weeks. When I looked at the charge level before I went in it was at "full" and since then it has been disconnected from the both the truck and the power disconnect has been thrown on the camper. Looked at the gauge today and it was still reading "full." Hooked up my charger and it was in float mode in about 5 minutes. So far so good. I figure I will be able to get back out there in about 2-3 weeks.
Before the surgery I did sneak in an overnight trip to Bodie and Mono lake. Although the forecast was for temps in low 40s the temp at my campsite was in the mid 20s at dawn. It was so cold that when I took an outdoor shower in the morning water froze solid on my shower base. Again the battery worked fine and never dropped below 60% - despite rather heavy use of the heater (and of course the microwave).
One of these trips I will try and skip the use of the Microwave just to see what the overnight numbers look like. Although it is really nice not to have worry about dirty pans and counter top splatter.
I had triple hernia surgery in early April (planned - not emergency) which obviously meant I have not been using the camper for the last three weeks. When I looked at the charge level before I went in it was at "full" and since then it has been disconnected from the both the truck and the power disconnect has been thrown on the camper. Looked at the gauge today and it was still reading "full." Hooked up my charger and it was in float mode in about 5 minutes. So far so good. I figure I will be able to get back out there in about 2-3 weeks.
Before the surgery I did sneak in an overnight trip to Bodie and Mono lake. Although the forecast was for temps in low 40s the temp at my campsite was in the mid 20s at dawn. It was so cold that when I took an outdoor shower in the morning water froze solid on my shower base. Again the battery worked fine and never dropped below 60% - despite rather heavy use of the heater (and of course the microwave).
One of these trips I will try and skip the use of the Microwave just to see what the overnight numbers look like. Although it is really nice not to have worry about dirty pans and counter top splatter.
Just another update. Everything is going great. I have used the camper the last 2 weekends and plan on continuing to do so all summer. Last weekend I was out at Black Rock Dessert on Sand Pass Road and drank a nice cool beer and had some ice cream while watching the dust devils roll by. No problems with the battery and charging system to report. Boondocked camped in Lassen NF that night.
I have bought a small (850 watt) portable A/C unit which should arrive this week. Plan to test that out next. Most nights I might use the A/C I will be on line power, but it might help cut down the heat for an hour or two on the battery when I am boondocking. It is more for RV park use.
I am REALLY happy with this battery set up once I got the bugs worked out. I would highly recommend to anybody else.
I have bought a small (850 watt) portable A/C unit which should arrive this week. Plan to test that out next. Most nights I might use the A/C I will be on line power, but it might help cut down the heat for an hour or two on the battery when I am boondocking. It is more for RV park use.
I am REALLY happy with this battery set up once I got the bugs worked out. I would highly recommend to anybody else.
chnlisle
Post Master
I dont know if you mentioned it in a previous post but what's the the total cost of the mod? Thanks
The current price for the battery is $959 ( http://store.starkpower.com/12V-100AhStarkPower-UltraEnergy-Lithium-Ion-Battery-LiFePO-Energy-Storage-Battery_p_24.html ). I made other changes too, but those are not strictly required. I added a remote contolled (wired) battery isolator so I could manually isolate the battery ($200) and a Xantrax LinkPro battery monitor to track charging and use. ($220). Plus upgrading the battery wires to 2 gauge (mostly) ($250). Each one of those mods could be done with a regular battery or not done at all. Altogether they work very well.chnlisle said:
Solar with LiFePo batteries is problematic because they need different voltages than a normal battery, you need to my a charge controller that is set for the chemistry. When/if I add solar that will be an additional expense. At this point I am running fine without solar, but I will probably do it in the future.
chnlisle
Post Master
TY
System continues to work fine. Our Nor Cal Heatwave has had a bit of impact with more fan and refrigerator draw. I camped in a very remote spot near Lassen a few weeks ago and the inside temp was 85 degrees at 10:30pm. With both fans going, the fridge microwave and CPAP the battery got down to 30% after breakfast. This is my alarm trigger. I would rather it held up a bit more but I really hit it pretty hard. I could turn up the fridge and turn down the fans - but if I got the amps I want to use them.
I have decided to add solar, starting with a 100 watt system and probably going up from there. My goal is to handle some of the fridge draw during the day so the battery so more amps are available to charge the battery. I have a charge controller coming today, but it is not really what I want - it is PWM not MPPT. I am going to start with this controller and probably special order the MPPT version once I know the system works for me.
I have decided to add solar, starting with a 100 watt system and probably going up from there. My goal is to handle some of the fridge draw during the day so the battery so more amps are available to charge the battery. I have a charge controller coming today, but it is not really what I want - it is PWM not MPPT. I am going to start with this controller and probably special order the MPPT version once I know the system works for me.
I'd go with a bigger solar panel than a 100 watt. I went straight for the 160 watt panel and mounted it to my Yakima tracks and it works great. The additional weight from a 100 to 160 is not that great, but you gain a few more amps and a faster battery charge!
photohc
Senior Member
I would agree with Bwth4x4. The output from a 100 watt panel will barely handle the refrigerator during the day.
I'm curious, what brand/make of solar panel controller did you find that would handle the requirements of a Lithium battery?
I'm curious, what brand/make of solar panel controller did you find that would handle the requirements of a Lithium battery?
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