esimmers
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2010
- Messages
- 170
I talked to the service department at FWC today about some of the issues discussed in this topic and want to pass on what I learned.
Please remember that your camper may be wired differently than mine, although many are the same: one main 30 Amp, 120 volt main circuit breaker inside the camper that feeds two, secondary 15 Amp breakers (one for the Iota 12 Volt converter and the other feeding both the refrigerator and the GFCI-protected outlet on the front of the cabinet). On the outside of the camper is the 125V 30 Amp twist-lock inlet (NEMA L5-30R), see picture, wired directly to that main 30A breaker by 10-gauge wire, all rated for 120V, 30 Amps.
I am reminded, and it's important to remember, that a 120-volt amp is not the same as a 12-volt amp. That explains why the Iota converter can put out 30 or 40 amps of 12 volt juice when protected by a 15 Amp, 120 volt circuit breaker. There are lots of electrical instructions online, but as a start remember that Volts X Amps = Watts.
Anyway, since the main 120V circuit breaker is rated at 30 Amps, and each of the secondary breakers is rated at 15 Amps, that indicates how much electrical load we can put on the system. Theoretically, a 15A circuit can handle 1800 Watts (120V X 15A = 1800 Watts). Theoretically then, a 15A circuit could handle a 750/1500 watt electric heater on high setting if nothing else was running. Practically, however, remember that there are voltage drops at the outside outlet you're plugged into or from the long extension cord you have to use, the deficient electricity supply from your host, etc. etc. You don't want to assume the electricity supplied to your camper will be a full 120 volts if you put a load on it. So, frankly, it's better to run an electric heater on the low (750 watt) setting. That will heat your camper up plenty and will leave plenty of reserve capacity.
In my experience, I have never plugged my camper into a 30A service (I don't have a 30-Amp extension cord). I have never suffered from plugging in to a regular 15-20A outlet and using a regular, sturdy extension cord. I can turn my electric heater on low, run the Iota charger, turn on my lights, listen to tunes, plug in my CPAP machine, run the 3-way refrigerator on AC or DC, charge my computer, and charge my wife's electric toothbrush; all without any worry.
This has been a great Topic and why I try to read this forum every week. The FWC experience isn't just dealing with FWC and staff, it's all we learn from each other.
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I do want to give a shout-out to the Service Department at Four Wheel Campers. Once I finally got through to them, they answered my questions quickly and expertly. My advice, if you have questions about your camper, is to CALL the company; don't bother with email. The receptionists know who to send you to and you'll get a good fast answer. Of course, don't call Monday morning or Friday afternoon.
Please remember that your camper may be wired differently than mine, although many are the same: one main 30 Amp, 120 volt main circuit breaker inside the camper that feeds two, secondary 15 Amp breakers (one for the Iota 12 Volt converter and the other feeding both the refrigerator and the GFCI-protected outlet on the front of the cabinet). On the outside of the camper is the 125V 30 Amp twist-lock inlet (NEMA L5-30R), see picture, wired directly to that main 30A breaker by 10-gauge wire, all rated for 120V, 30 Amps.
I am reminded, and it's important to remember, that a 120-volt amp is not the same as a 12-volt amp. That explains why the Iota converter can put out 30 or 40 amps of 12 volt juice when protected by a 15 Amp, 120 volt circuit breaker. There are lots of electrical instructions online, but as a start remember that Volts X Amps = Watts.
Anyway, since the main 120V circuit breaker is rated at 30 Amps, and each of the secondary breakers is rated at 15 Amps, that indicates how much electrical load we can put on the system. Theoretically, a 15A circuit can handle 1800 Watts (120V X 15A = 1800 Watts). Theoretically then, a 15A circuit could handle a 750/1500 watt electric heater on high setting if nothing else was running. Practically, however, remember that there are voltage drops at the outside outlet you're plugged into or from the long extension cord you have to use, the deficient electricity supply from your host, etc. etc. You don't want to assume the electricity supplied to your camper will be a full 120 volts if you put a load on it. So, frankly, it's better to run an electric heater on the low (750 watt) setting. That will heat your camper up plenty and will leave plenty of reserve capacity.
In my experience, I have never plugged my camper into a 30A service (I don't have a 30-Amp extension cord). I have never suffered from plugging in to a regular 15-20A outlet and using a regular, sturdy extension cord. I can turn my electric heater on low, run the Iota charger, turn on my lights, listen to tunes, plug in my CPAP machine, run the 3-way refrigerator on AC or DC, charge my computer, and charge my wife's electric toothbrush; all without any worry.
This has been a great Topic and why I try to read this forum every week. The FWC experience isn't just dealing with FWC and staff, it's all we learn from each other.
-------
I do want to give a shout-out to the Service Department at Four Wheel Campers. Once I finally got through to them, they answered my questions quickly and expertly. My advice, if you have questions about your camper, is to CALL the company; don't bother with email. The receptionists know who to send you to and you'll get a good fast answer. Of course, don't call Monday morning or Friday afternoon.
