I am starting to really dislike my camper solar

Hi Advmoto! The odd thing is that I only left Enterprise, OR where I'd been plugged in for four+ days a week ago. I'd think that my batteries wouldn't have so much difficulty.

One of the symptoms happened with my original batteries two(?) years ago - I was camped at Valley of the Gods, UT meetup with some other WtW folks. They all had no problems leaving their campers parked for four days, but my batteries got low enough I went to drive around to try to boost them. This is a location with full sun all day all the time.

I will definitely check that battery separator. Is this what you are talking about?
https://www.hodgesmarine.com/BLUE-SEA-SOLENOID-SI-SERIES-120A-12-24V-ACR-p/blu7610.htm

I've got my camper plugged in at my friend's house in Flagstaff now. We haven't had a chance to troubleshoot (I just got in yesterday)

----

Maybe I should buy a 100w portable while I have an address for shipping (or anyone know a place in Flag to buy solar?).
Any recommendations for not expensive panel?
 
You were plugged in? You do have an IOTA converter I presume? https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls30.htm

Even without the IQ4 module you should see 13.4 volts if you're plugged in. More if you have the IQ4 and the batteries need charging.
This is why I like having a voltmeter installed. I can see at a glance if anything looks wrong. If it does then I'll climb in and check the trimetric.

I just wired that meter to the 12volt plug outlet. Not the best for accuracy but its close enough for my purposes. If you have an IOTA i'd plug in and check that now. Assuming you have one (its rare not to have one) and you don't see at least 13.4 volts you need to find out why. Blown fuse? Miswired?

This time of year your panels should be able to keep up.
 
Solve your issue before throwing money for another panel.

Something is not right with your system.

I have a 135 watt panel, Morningstar charge controller and a 100 amp Lifeline battery. I have only solar charging, no electrical connection to the truck in any way. I run a Truck Fridge (2 amps/hour average) as the major power usage. Seldom use the LED lights, the Fantastic Fan, the Propane Heater or the Propane Stove Top. Been this way since 2014 and working great.

So, you should be OK with what you've already got, once you fix the issue.
 
Hoyden

Sounds like you need to have your system checked out by a tech knowledgeable in solar.

Full sun all day long should keep the batteries in the 12.0+ range, unless your frig is constantly running. We keep our frig on setting 2, sometimes, but rarely, 3. No need to go any colder as this will cause the compressor to run almost continuously when temps are above 80F and parked in full sun. The frig is the big energy consumer in summer.

I still have the factory Dometic frig but would like to figure out a way to install a National Luna. NL are simply too large for the space. Dometic are designed to be installed in RV's not our popup campers. I wish FWC would offer a National Luna option. I might rip out my right side cabinets, modify or build news ones to accommodate a NL...some day. Installing a NL will greatly relieve the strain on battery drain during the day. Sorry, got on the NL tangent. I really want one! NL keeps food cold longer and uses considerably less energy than the Dometic frig.

Camping on the Alvord in SE Oregon, I never saw our batteries get below 12.2V; full sun, frig on setting 2, fan running, heater running at night when temps below 50F (not my choice :) ).

It sounds as though you aren't getting all the amps from the panel down into your camper batteries for some reason. You sure you aren't shading a cell on the panel? If the batteries are discharged, the truck's alternator will not charge the camper batteries since you can't manually close the relay between the camper and the truck.

Here's the Blue Seas unit you need. No you don't need 500 amps. But you do need the switch for the auto function and the yellow lever on the unit to manually override the relay when camper batteries in deep discharge state and you need the truck electrical system to charge them. Just be aware, manual override will discharge your crank battery to charge the camper batteries faster then the alternator will charge the crank battery. So when finished charging the camper batteries and after resetting the manual override, let the truck continue to idle a little while in order to charge the crank battery.

Bill
 
One more question Hoyden, is your fridge a two way or three way? The three way variety really don't work great on 12vdc.

Agree on the 7622 ACR, that is what i use and it is awesome.
 
Hi Dawn
Glad you made it to flagstaff ok. Is the company AT that you got the batteries and solar system from in or near you now?
Russ
 
Vic Harder said:
One more question Hoyden, is your fridge a two way or three way? The three way variety really don't work great on 12vdc.

Agree on the 7622 ACR, that is what i use and it is awesome.
Click to expand...
Ah, my fridge is a two-way Dometic.
 
craig333 said:
You were plugged in? You do have an IOTA converter I presume? https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls30.htm

Even without the IQ4 module you should see 13.4 volts if you're plugged in. More if you have the IQ4 and the batteries need charging.
This is why I like having a voltmeter installed. I can see at a glance if anything looks wrong. If it does then I'll climb in and check the trimetric.

I just wired that meter to the 12volt plug outlet. Not the best for accuracy but its close enough for my purposes. If you have an IOTA i'd plug in and check that now. Assuming you have one (its rare not to have one) and you don't see at least 13.4 volts you need to find out why. Blown fuse? Miswired?

This time of year your panels should be able to keep up.
Click to expand...
 
Oh, my controller shows good while plugged in. I forgot what it was reading today, but it is happy with shore power
 
Vic Harder said:
what does it show when plugged in for a few days? and then right when you disconnect the shore power?
Click to expand...
Yesterday, while plugged in, it was reading 14.2. This morning, plugged in still, it's reading 13.7.

I'll disconnect later today to go run some errands and will let you know what it shows.
 
Another good source of info is Handy Bob's Solar (Can't get it to hyperlink), just google it. For starters read; RV battery charging puzzle. I would check your battery manufacturers charging voltage specs, might be a bit higher than your equipment is set for.
 
Were you on flooded batteries before or AGM?

Not familiar with your controller but my Renogy has different modes for various battery types, might want to check and make sure you are set for the correct battery type.
 
14.2 volts is a good asorb number, then the inverter /charger meet the time and amps and dropped to float charge at 13.7 volts. The inverter will hold it there.

Your solar charge controller should be doing the same thing. In the morning if you are not seeing 14 plus voltage from your solar (bulk charge) then your solar controller is not working.

I can not stress highly enough to have a battery monitor and understand the numbers it provides. It is information to tell you the health of your batteries and quickly see what is wrong or right in your system.

A solar controller with Bluetooth I have found to be a great tool to customize charge levels to match the batteries manufactures. Having Bluetooth to monitor it on a device has been handy.

In your system I would question if you are using more watts then the solar can put back in so you are getting behind daily. A battery monitor will record this for you.

Second I question your solar system as maybe your controller is not working or not matched to effectively charge your batteries you have.

Other factors could be the location of the controller to the batteries, maybe not sensing temperature of the battery etc.. wiring to the battery from the controller, all positive and negative connection proper and tight.

You could have a series of things that are not as good as they could be all compounding to make it worse. It is hard to see what you have by not seeing it and touching it, so very hard to suggest a change for you.
 
They were AGM before, and AGM now.
It is indeed on the correct setting on the controller, Cayuse.

My original controller went bad, and this is the second one installed by AT.
When I took possession of my new Fleet, the solar had not been hooked up. I pointed this out, and they did a rush job to get it set up. Since I've had issues since the beginning, I do wonder if they mis-wired it somewhere.

Which battery monitor? Does the controller not do that?
 
Can you provide the battery manufacturer and battery size/rating.
 
I like the Victron battery monitors and got the newer one with bluetooth. There are other brands out there but you need one with a shunt.

The controller is good to show watts or amps currently producing and heading to the battery. Where a a battery monitor will give you what / how much has been used and how much has gotten into the battery.

A good watch and read is the links in my post about why you may not be getting good charge from your alternator while driving...
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/17146-understanding-battery-management-and-good-fwc-customizing-from-expoportal/
 
I have a Victron as well, very cool tool. Yes it is pricey, but much cheaper than constantly buying new batteries.

Love that video that pvstoy linked too. Yes it is a rant, but the guy is good at clarifying the difficulties in getting a good charge from the alternator.
 
Check the voltage at the terminals from the panels. It should be higher than the battery side. Typically 17-21 depending on your panels. If its not you may have a bad wire, not uncommon for the wires behind the lift panels to break after repeated flexing.
 
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