I am starting to really dislike my camper solar

[hoyden]

https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers

Here is a link to Victron page. I would look at the Smart Solar controller MPPT. The first number is how many volts open circuit from the panel. Second number is how many amps. Your 160 watt panel is under 30 volts? and around 5 amps. So you don't need a expensive one, but if you did add a second panel you need to buy now for that addition in the future. It could be plugged into the rear solar port on the camper.

If you added a same panel and wired it in series then you would look at the first number and be around 50 volts ( add voltage of the two panels together) and the second number in amps around 5 amps.

If you added a same panel and you wired in parallel (Like your two batteries are wired together) then you would add the amps, so looking at the second number on the MPPT would be around 10 to 12 amps and voltage around 30 or less.

So a Smart Solar MPPT could be a 75/15 , 100/15 or 100/20. What fits your price range. The 100/30 unit gets much bigger in size. If you never added a second panel then the 75/10 would work with the existing panel just fine.


https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-712-smart

The Victron BMV-712 smart battery monitor is Bluetooth and works well.

Okay, so if I plan to put a 100w portable at some point, I'd want the midrange 100/15 controller, yes?

I haven't had my coffee yet, so just to be clear:

This is a monitor: https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-712-smart#pd-nav-image

and this is the controller: https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers

and how do I hook them together? (well, how does my friend hook them together? and where does one mount the controller?)

and I think we need a wiring schematic.

 

[hoyden]

So this one will work for now AND if I wanna add a panel?

https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510

https://smile.amazon.com/Victron-BlueSolar-Controller-VE-Direct-Bluetooth/dp/B07235YXT2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1536851680&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=BlueSolar+MPPT+75%2F10%2C+75%2F15+%26+100%2F15

 

[rando]

I think there is a misunderstanding about the current GoPower solar controller. I don't think the manual is saying that it only charges for 2 hours in the morning, but that it stays in bulk phase of charging until the voltage reaches 14.4V (~90% charged), then holds that voltage (absorb phase) for 2 hours (last 10%) before dropping to the float phase. This is a pretty standard charge profile. So unless the charge controller is defective or has failed, I don't think that it is the culprit. The Victron MPPT is certainly a better charge controller and may yield 20% or so better efficiency, but I don't think it is going to resolve your issue and would not be the first place to spend your money.

A battery monitor is probably a good place to start so that you can really understand what is going on and then fix the real problem and learn what 'normal' is so you can quickly diagnose any future issues. As others have mentioned the Victron BMV-712 is the cream of the crop:
https://shop.pkys.com/Victron-Energy-BMV-712-Smart-Precision-Battery-Monitor.html

But if you want to save some money and don't mind giving up the hardware display (and the associated hole in the cabinetry) this Thornwave monitor seems to be getting good reviews for less than half the price:
https://www.thornwave.com/product/btdcpm/

As it doesn't require any holes, and only 2 wires, you could probably install it yourself.

 

[Machinebuilder]

Dawn

From what I can tell from 1300mi away. The biggest problem you have is an inappropriate charge controller. Apparently it will only charge at the bulk rate 14.4volts for 2 hrs IF the battery voltage is above 12.3v. Look at page 17 on the manual.


To make this more understandable

I have an Engel 40 fridge. When set at 30degrees it uses about 14 amp hours per day with the weather in the high 80’s

That means to fully charge the battery I need to put more amp hours in from the charger.

At 5-6 amps from the charger I need 3 hrs in bulk charge mode.

I have a 160watt panel a Victron mppt controller and it’s been running my Engel for about 2 months so far and as long as it’s not a rainy day goes into float mode every day. And it’s been a hot summer here it is also shaded for much of the day.

I can adjust the Victron charging profile if needed, the only thing I did is put the battery parameters in the right spots.

Good luck. I hope your friend is a little knowledgeable about electricity. It’s really not that complicated for someone with basic knowledge.

 

[Advmoto18]

Hoyden

Perhaps a trip to the factory west of Sacramento is in order.

If you go it alone...

I agree with Vic, I don't think it is your panel since your are seeing good output on the multi-meter. Sort out possible issues with the the other components first.

I would replace the controller! There are several excellent replacement options that have been discussed here and in other threads. They are expensive. See what a new, high quality controller does for your charging state. If you're still having an issue, then I would go to a distributor for your batteries and have them bench tested. While you can not test specific gravity of an AGM design, there are charts they can use to ascertain the SG with a high degree of certainty.

 

[hoyden]

I talked with a guy at the local solar place here and he suggested I get a KW meter ($30) and leave it on overnight to see what the actual usage is happening. This'll also let me know if I have a leak or something. I do know the fridge is a hog, so we'll see what the readings say.

 

[Vic Harder]

As usual, rando brings me back down to earth.

I agree with him, that monitoring should be your first priority. Without that, we are kind of shooting in the dark. So far, we've had some good guesses, and if right they could be cheaper, but in the long run, doing this right means you need a good monitor.

I've never tried that Thornwave monitor, and love my Victron BMV.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Unfortunately I don't believe it is an FWC installed system.

I think the dealer installed their own solar panel and charge controller for the customer.

Could be wrong though.

Beside checking the solar systems mentioned in these threads, I would HIGHLY suggesting also checking the truck-to-camper wiring.

(truck battery connection, thermal breaker fuse, camper plug, better separator, any in-line fuses if you have them, see if the battery separator is opening & closing when the truck is running or not running, etc.)

Most trucks do a great job helping to recharge the camper batteries, in addition to the solar panels.

That would be one if the first things I would check.

Let me know if you need help on what to look for, and I can do a quick video to post to Youtube.




Stan

 

[hoyden]

Hey Stan!

We were going to check the truck stuff tonight - thanks for that list! That'll help a lot.

I went to the local solar store today with intention of getting a KW monitor, and ended up just buying the damn Victron monitor with bluetooth (they gave me a much better price than Amazon, so that's helpful)
It seems like a good way to really get some data on what's going on.

(So what if I have no income right now... I will at some point, right? Ha!)

 

[Vic Harder]

Good to hear that you got a Victron BMV. Looking at the photo of your battery compartment that you posted above, it looks like you have lots of room for the shunt in there.

I'm not sure which of your grounds goes to the chassis ground, but don't make the mistake i made when wiring up the shunt. You want the shunt to go between your batteries and the camper/chassis ground, so that ALL current going into and out of the batteries has to pass through the shunt. Meaning you will be disconnecting all the wires currently on the (correct) ground post and connecting them to one end of the shunt. The other end of the shunt then gets a short, fat wire connecting it to the battery post.

Post pics when you are done.

 

[Advmoto18]

The Victron is a super piece of gear. It has a great app. Wish it had been around when I bought my Trimetric 2030-RV. I like high tech gadgets that makes life easier, until they don't!

Yep, correct shunt wiring is critical!

 

[Advmoto18]

Just reread Handy Bob's Puzzle essay for the umpteenth time. Some day, need to copy to Word and delete the chaff leaving the important info for quick reading and reference...some day.

 

[hoyden]

After testing my truck to camper and camper inside from truck, we've determined that the Battery Separator is kaput. It's way past my bedtime, so no technical speak for me right now Suffice it to say, I bet this has been (an) issue from Day 1 and I'm pretty annoyed.

After we figured that out, we got to work installing my fancy new Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor so that I can see what power is really being used and make solid calculations from there.

Sully hadn't been happy left inside the house, and has me trained well enough that his barking got me running. He joined us in the camper for the installing excitement.

By the time we were done, it was 8:45 and we hadn't eaten dinner. I was so hungry I forgot to get a finished pic. The Victron is installed, the app is downloaded and set up on my phone, and tomorrow I'll see what it tells me.

I do know that I need to get a new Battery Separator.

 

[Advmoto18]

The Blue Seas will cure that problem.

But, I don't think that explains why the panel isn't charging your batteries.

The separator simply protects your truck battery from the camper battery/electrical system. The separator prevents the camper batteries from draining the vehicle crank battery which could leave you stranded in the boonies.

The unit you have can not be manually overridden when it trips, usually around 11.8v. The separator trips to prevent the vehicle battery/alternator from charging the camper batteries when they are in a deep state of discharge. At this point your only option to charge the batteries is either with shore or panel.

However, if you install the Blue Seas unit Vic and I mentioned, you have the option of manually overriding the separator and using the truck's battery/alternator to charge your deeply discharged batteries.

Worth mentioning again, I would consider shutting down the camper electrical system/load at 12.2v (as viewed on the Trimetric 2030-RV) which is just above 50% capacity of the camper batteries. Taking the batteries into a deeper SoC (discharge) greatly reduces life span. Also, if you manually close the Blue Seas unit, you need to let the engine idle for a bit longer after you reset the unit. You want the vehicle crank battery to recover from its discharge to the camper battery.

Personally, I'm going to shut down my camper electrical system at 12.2v. I generally have the load at an absolute minimum ~12.3v for the given environmental conditions until I get the camper batteries into a higher SoC.

Keep us posted Dawn!

Bill

 

[craig333]

A separator is not a required item. My camper didn't come with one but it also didn't come with camper battery. With my marine battery switch I never wonder if its working. Sure its manual but I don't mind as its not often I need to use it anyway. Since my last solar panel install, charging and battery upgrade I haven't needed to use the truck as a charger at all.

Great pic. Your battery compartment is in the same spot as mine. Only your wood cover is two pieces. Mine is a single piece and is a pita to move around. I'll be getting out the circular saw this afternoon!

 

[hoyden]

Somewhere here said they keep their fridge at 2 or 3, even in summer? I've never been able to do that. I had a big issue with my fridge staying cold when I was in Utah that first summer I had my FWC. I keep mine at whatever is near the top. 6 ?

I know the fridge is an energy hog, so I do wonder if that's one component of the problems?

I did break down today and get the damn Victron controller. The 100/30, so that I have option to add more solar panel.
We'll get it and the new separator installed this weekend.

Slow going cuz my friend here is getting his house prepped for sale - and he's getting photos taken on Monday.
I've been busy painting doors and staining the deck and other little tasks.

Will post more pics shortly of the new bits installed.

 

[craig333]

Its going to vary with the mfg of the fridge. My truckfridge is almost perfect at 3.

 

[Advmoto18]

We keep our fridge on 2 in the winter and 3 in the summer. Any colder then 3 and salad stuff freezes. I have the FWC installed Dometic 2 way.

Dawn I'm kind of perplexed you have to keep your frig on 6. Is it a factory installed frig?

Spot on Craig, the separator is not required if you don't plan on using the vehicle to charge camper batteries. If you do use the truck for charging and do not install a separator, it is only a matter of time your truck will fail to start.

We've been using Blue Seas separators (both automatic and manual) in electrical rigging on fishing boats for many, many years. It's the only way to go separation electrical system IMO. Glad to see FWC now using Blue Seas rather than the previous brand.

 

[hoyden]

It is factory installed 2-way Dometic fridge. If I do lower than 5, it gets above 45°F

I do want my camper batteries to charge while I'm driving, and I got a good one today from the local solar store.

 

[klahanie]

Seeing as you've bought a meter you might want to wait and get some data re fridge energy consumption. Some readers here may then provide a comparison from their own experience. I think I have seen some posts about making the oem fridge more efficient - might save you from buying more solar, IDK.

I do want my camper batteries to charge while I'm driving, and I got a good one today from the local solar store.

Separator or charger (DC to DC)? think I've read on here some Toyota alternators may have difficulties charging house batteries in some instances.