Low Cost Mods
- Thread starter Lighthawk
- Start date
K6ON
Old & Soft
Here is a six dollar mod I made to my Engel 45 qt fridge. Found this vegi tray that was almost the right size and added a small stainless steel angle to support one end. A piece of foam to keep it from shifting finished it up.
Dsrtrat
WHERE did you find the tray??
Dsrtrat
WHERE did you find the tray??
I have same thermostat and was having the the same problem of cold weather performance until I switched to lithium batteries, no problems so far.
Dsrtrat
I think I have to same one in mine, have you noticed under 30deg or so it just shows "Lo" and won't initial heat when switched, on? Mine does that and it can be annoying, I'll pull it off and stick it in my jacket for a moment warm it back up when that happens. I've been thinking a bypass switch wouldn't be a bad idea to first fire it up when its that cold.
Dsrtrat
I think I have to same one in mine, have you noticed under 30deg or so it just shows "Lo" and won't initial heat when switched, on? Mine does that and it can be annoying, I'll pull it off and stick it in my jacket for a moment warm it back up when that happens. I've been thinking a bypass switch wouldn't be a bad idea to first fire it up when its that cold.
White Dog
Senior Member
The fire extinguisher, flashlight and bear spray aren't really useful if they are not handy. I made this little mount out of a couple of scraps of oak I had around the shop. With a bit of playing with stains and finish, it looks like it came from the factory this way. All are mounted just inside the door.
craig333
Riley's Human
Nice. I should do that. But wood hates me.
White Dog
Senior Member
Nice. I should do that. But wood hates me.
Working with wood is easy. Just count your fingers at the beginning of the day and at the end. If the number is the same you're good-to-go. If the second number is less, call 911. If the second number is greater, stay away from the libations while you're working.
Good luck.
Working with wood is easy. Just count your fingers at the beginning of the day and at the end. If the number is the same you're good-to-go. If the second number is less, call 911. If the second number is greater, stay away from the libations while you're working.
Good luck.
OP
OP
Lighthawk
Weekend warrior
I don't really have the solution to present, yet.
Our issue after driving our share of jolting backroads this fall/winter is that we have had our cooking implements disappear into the dark abyss of the cabinets on a regular basis. I thought I lost my all-time-favorite camp spatula (I've had it 30 years and got it used. I would say it's at least 50 years old!), but found it a month later in the cavity above the 'fridge along with half a dozen other items. Thank goodness, because they sure don't make 'em like they used to!
What's happening is the camper takes a bounce and the drawer above the fridge upchucks it's belongings within the space around it. After enough miles, half our gear is missing. What makes it worse is the drawer is way too small for the space available. FWC put a drawer sized 12x15.5x2.5 (465 ci) when there's plenty of room for a drawer sized 18x20x5 (1800 ci or nearly four times larger!)
I hesitate to begin rebuilding stock cabinets. I might as well go fully custom. Instead it seems my choices are :
I like my FWC a lot, but they could take some pointers on the cabinet build.
Our issue after driving our share of jolting backroads this fall/winter is that we have had our cooking implements disappear into the dark abyss of the cabinets on a regular basis. I thought I lost my all-time-favorite camp spatula (I've had it 30 years and got it used. I would say it's at least 50 years old!), but found it a month later in the cavity above the 'fridge along with half a dozen other items. Thank goodness, because they sure don't make 'em like they used to!
What's happening is the camper takes a bounce and the drawer above the fridge upchucks it's belongings within the space around it. After enough miles, half our gear is missing. What makes it worse is the drawer is way too small for the space available. FWC put a drawer sized 12x15.5x2.5 (465 ci) when there's plenty of room for a drawer sized 18x20x5 (1800 ci or nearly four times larger!)
I hesitate to begin rebuilding stock cabinets. I might as well go fully custom. Instead it seems my choices are :
- Restrain the contents of this wimpy drawer
We bought rubbery Grip Liner to place in the drawer, possibly with an extra flap to fold over the contents for rougher roads or maybe some mini-bungies mounted within the drawer box. - Build a larger drawer that doesn't have an empty cavity above it
I like my FWC a lot, but they could take some pointers on the cabinet build.
leadsled9
Contributors
I like my FWC a lot, but they could take some pointers on the cabinet build.
Get rid of the little drawer....and install the larger fridge!
Get rid of the little drawer....and install the larger fridge!
OP
OP
Lighthawk
Weekend warrior
Get rid of the little drawer....and install the larger fridge!
Yes, Mr. Lead, but this thread is named Low Cost Mods
Yes, Mr. Lead, but this thread is named Low Cost Mods
ntsqd
Custom User Title
I don't really have the solution to present, yet.
......
I like my FWC a lot, but they could take some pointers on the cabinet build.
Drill four 1/4" (I *think*) holes in the drawer, two on each side up near the top. Cut a piece of double smooth sided masonite to *just* fit the drawer width-wise and maybe a little short length-wise. Install cabinet shelf support pins in those holes. Slip the masonite between the drawer contents and those pins & allow it to simply lay on top of the contents. May be able to place the forward (towards you) set of holes such that you can slip the masonite into place w/o needing to remove the near set of pins and maybe not. Drill and debur a 3/4"-1" hole in one end of the masonite for a finger hole.
......
I like my FWC a lot, but they could take some pointers on the cabinet build.
Drill four 1/4" (I *think*) holes in the drawer, two on each side up near the top. Cut a piece of double smooth sided masonite to *just* fit the drawer width-wise and maybe a little short length-wise. Install cabinet shelf support pins in those holes. Slip the masonite between the drawer contents and those pins & allow it to simply lay on top of the contents. May be able to place the forward (towards you) set of holes such that you can slip the masonite into place w/o needing to remove the near set of pins and maybe not. Drill and debur a 3/4"-1" hole in one end of the masonite for a finger hole.
EdoHart
Grasshopper
This is a great thread! Better under sink organization.
The eyebolts are machine threads into wood inserts. The shelving and vertical dividers are from plywood I had lying aroung. The corner braces and their wood screws I also had lying around from something I had taken apart. I had to cut about 1/8 to 1/4 inch off the end of the wood screws to keep them from poking through the plywood.
I also had the netting and the wire-ties that I used to attach the mini-buggie cords to the netting lying around. The only new cost was for a jar of mini-buggies, the eyebolts and the wood inserts.
I've had the 1 inch square webbing for close to 20 years. PM me if you want some and I'll do my best to get you a piece for the size you request.
The eyebolts are machine threads into wood inserts. The shelving and vertical dividers are from plywood I had lying aroung. The corner braces and their wood screws I also had lying around from something I had taken apart. I had to cut about 1/8 to 1/4 inch off the end of the wood screws to keep them from poking through the plywood.
I also had the netting and the wire-ties that I used to attach the mini-buggie cords to the netting lying around. The only new cost was for a jar of mini-buggies, the eyebolts and the wood inserts.
I've had the 1 inch square webbing for close to 20 years. PM me if you want some and I'll do my best to get you a piece for the size you request.
EdoHart
Grasshopper
The previous owner built these shelves and curtain between the driver's side cabinet and the front wall of the camper. I took them out once, looking to change my storage options, but it's a better use of the space to have them in. The curtain is made of elastic strips running vertically and velcro closed small pockets made of mesh that was sewed with a sewing machine. I don't know how much that cost, but I think it fits the catagory.
With the curtain down and hooked to 2 wood screws on the bottom, things don't fall off the shelves.
Flip up the curtain to gain access to the mini-cupboard.
You can see in the bottom of both pictures that I put a couple of eyehooks to attach mini-bungie cords to. That was a mistake, the front wall is only about 1/8 inch thick. Fortunately I used wood inserts there too, so no real damage was done.
With the curtain down and hooked to 2 wood screws on the bottom, things don't fall off the shelves.
Flip up the curtain to gain access to the mini-cupboard.
You can see in the bottom of both pictures that I put a couple of eyehooks to attach mini-bungie cords to. That was a mistake, the front wall is only about 1/8 inch thick. Fortunately I used wood inserts there too, so no real damage was done.
EdoHart
Grasshopper
I converted the water tank drain to a faucet at the rear of the camper. Mine is a 2000 Hawk in which FWC put the 12 gallon water tank above the truck bed, below the counter top, and between the LPG tank and the sink. I've seen the newer Hawks with the 20 gallon tank on the front of the floor and the drain at the bottom of the rear of the camper. That looks like a good improvement over my 2000 setup.
OP
OP
Lighthawk
Weekend warrior
I converted the water tank drain to a faucet at the rear of the camper. Mine is a 2000 Hawk in which FWC put the 12 gallon water tank above the truck bed, below the counter top, and between the LPG tank and the sink. I've seen the newer Hawks with the 20 gallon tank on the front of the floor and the drain at the bottom of the rear of the camper. That looks like a good improvement over my 2000 setup.
Good one, Edo. My 08 Hawk has the 20 gal water tank up front and a drain on the rear wall below the propane access. I carry a 12" length of clear 3/8" tubing with nylon barb fitting that friction fits into the FWC drain. It allows for easy filling of the Zodi, the dog bowl or washing of my feet after stepping in fresh cow pie (Warner's this summer). Without the tube the water dribbles over the rear bumper and is hard to direct. Cost me about $1.00 USD
Good one, Edo. My 08 Hawk has the 20 gal water tank up front and a drain on the rear wall below the propane access. I carry a 12" length of clear 3/8" tubing with nylon barb fitting that friction fits into the FWC drain. It allows for easy filling of the Zodi, the dog bowl or washing of my feet after stepping in fresh cow pie (Warner's this summer). Without the tube the water dribbles over the rear bumper and is hard to direct. Cost me about $1.00 USD
K7MDL
Senior Member
For you stretch net/bungie cord users, consider using D-rings instead of those larger eyebolts. They come in many sizes and anchor with 1 or 2 screws. They fold flat when not in use thus leave better access or look better. Plenty strong when in use.
For motorcyle/ATV luggage racks, you can get 15" square bungie nets with 6 or so plastic hooks. You can move these hooks anywhere on the net. I use the D-rings at the opening of my Grandby storage space between the front wall and cabinet, 5 of them - 3 along the bottom and 2 up top. I stack my sleeping bag, bankets and motorcycle gear in there. The netting has a natural gap at the edges and does not interfere with my front window curtains. The hooks have small aux hooks that I use to hang towels/clothes to dry on.
For motorcyle/ATV luggage racks, you can get 15" square bungie nets with 6 or so plastic hooks. You can move these hooks anywhere on the net. I use the D-rings at the opening of my Grandby storage space between the front wall and cabinet, 5 of them - 3 along the bottom and 2 up top. I stack my sleeping bag, bankets and motorcycle gear in there. The netting has a natural gap at the edges and does not interfere with my front window curtains. The hooks have small aux hooks that I use to hang towels/clothes to dry on.
OP
OP
Lighthawk
Weekend warrior
I don't really have the solution to present, yet.
Now I do have a $3.79 solution!
I saw some rubbery drawer liner material (Con-Tact brand by Kittridge 12" x 5 ft.) in the grocery store and thought it might work to control our utensils while booney-bouncing.
I cut the material to width and used a household stapler to tack it to the drawer face.
I left the material long enough so I could bring back a fold over the top of the drawer contents. To make it easier I cut a short length of dowel and stapled a flap over the dowel.
It seems easy enough to grab items from the drawer and we can shove the dowel and excess to the rear of the drawer if we are tired of it.
The best way to know will be to use it, which might not be for a few months.
The main thing is not to lose our utensils into . . .
The Abyss
Now I do have a $3.79 solution!
I saw some rubbery drawer liner material (Con-Tact brand by Kittridge 12" x 5 ft.) in the grocery store and thought it might work to control our utensils while booney-bouncing.
I cut the material to width and used a household stapler to tack it to the drawer face.
I left the material long enough so I could bring back a fold over the top of the drawer contents. To make it easier I cut a short length of dowel and stapled a flap over the dowel.
It seems easy enough to grab items from the drawer and we can shove the dowel and excess to the rear of the drawer if we are tired of it.
The best way to know will be to use it, which might not be for a few months.
The main thing is not to lose our utensils into . . .
The Abyss
Nice solution.Andy why did they make such a small drawer?Is there room to make it larger? Seems like a waste of storage space.
Frank
Frank
brett13
Lovecock
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2006
- Messages
- 1,026
The fire extinguisher, flashlight and bear spray aren't really useful if they are not handy. I made this little mount out of a couple of scraps of oak I had around the shop. With a bit of playing with stains and finish, it looks like it came from the factory this way. All are mounted just inside the door.
Nice. Thinking I need to copy this. Question though: how did you fix the wood to the wall?
Nice. Thinking I need to copy this. Question though: how did you fix the wood to the wall?
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