No Destination : hoyden and two dogs hit the road full-time

We’ve arrived in Texas!

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"Highz" in Cloudcroft, NM suggested I check out the Guadalupe Mountains National Park. It’s not far from Carlsbad, so I made my way there for a camp-over. I wish I’d stayed to hike in those rugged mountains, because they really are impressive. I arrived there on a lovely and temperate Christmas eve but was too tired to explore. The “campground” was simply a large parking lot, with a lower section for tent camping and nice spots for tents nestled in the brush.

A strong wind picked up during the night and got so strong that moving to the lower bed in the camper didn’t help. The whole truck was moving from the huge gusts. At 2am I moved to a different location hoping it would provide some shelter, but it didn’t help. Morning came with winds and a sharp chill. A young woman I met in the restroom who was car camping said that the winds were expected through early evening. I decided to move on instead of waiting it out. A man camped a few spots down from me chatted about my camper. He said that he’d just come from Big Bend. He’d planned to go for two days, and ended up staying two weeks and still hadn’t explored the whole park. It’s really large. He drew me a map of a couple of campsites to check out.

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Big Bend requires reservations of all “backcountry” sites and you have to get a $12 permit, pick out your sites, then you can camp. I didn’t actually learn that until the next day.

West Texas sure is windy, but it’s also really beautiful.

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I headed to Marfa, Texas, where we spent my mom’s 70th birthday. It’s an interesting town, an old railroad town “discovered” by artist Donald Judd Unfortunately, everything was closed, so I couldn’t even get lunch there. Stupid holidays.

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I thought about staying over at the Marfa Mystery Lights, but it was right off the small highway and wasn’t ideal, especially considering the lack of sleep I’d gotten the night before. I wanted quiet. I drove on to Big Bend National Park.

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I mind people a lot less than I did on my October trip. Makes sense – the October trip was a break – to get away from work and people and hassle. This trip is purely an exploration. There is more patience and appreciation of the random when time is not so much a constraint. (Well, it is always a constraint. We are mortal, after all)

I sit on a log, with my minty tea and the sundown muted colors breathing the sweet (mesquite?) aroma and listen to the faint dinner-making sounds of my neighbors and a few birds. Temperature today was low 80’s. I wonder what night temps will low?

Pugsly is very photogenic and I take a lot of pictures of her. I will inundate you for a moment.

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My 13-year-old comic relief. I love this weird, snarfing doggie.

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My first night in Big Bend I am invited to share a very large spot with a retired couple who are car camping. We chat some after dinner. They have had a full outdoor life of caving, river running, hiking, and traveling. I envy their adventures.

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It’s Christmas Day and all the Visitor Centers are closed. The nice couple tells me that I need a backcountry pass to camp and if a Ranger comes around I could get a ticket. A ticket? Weird. They will tell any Ranger that they invited me and hopefully I won’t have issue. I planned to go to the office first thing in the morning to get my pass anyway.
 
First thing in the morning and I’m packing up when a Ranger stops by. I took a surreptitious photo while he was writing down my driver’s license info. They aren’t kidding around out here. He gave me a warning and I told him I was heading right then to get my pass.
I did.

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Gotta carry tweezers when walking in the desert lest prickers get you. This one was stuck in Pugsly, and when I went to pull it – with my hands, of course – it stuck me twice. Ow. Those little spines have spines and don’t pull out easily.

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I really like these signs.

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Monday, December 26th After getting our Backcountry pass and picking out spots for the remainder of the week, we played tourist and drove around a bunch.

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There are hot springs here, but by the time I drove down that narrow dirt road, it was pretty warm out and I didn’t want to leave the dogs in the truck. (hint: I got to the hot springs a couple of days later :-D ) This is some ruin. I haven’t yet looked it up.

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I happened upon this lovely Cottonwooded area and stopped for lunch and a little exploring. After all, where there is Cottonwood there is water.

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The Rio Grande is one of the boundaries between the United States and Mexico. And it is magnificent!

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This wide and murky river is a known crossing for folks coming north and there are footprints in the mud along the river bank here.

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It is not my intention to have anything political in this blog, but I can’t help but wonder what horrors would push a family to risk their lives to strike out on such a dangerous journey. There are a lot of folks who take that trek, not just from close-by Mexico (not that southern Mexico is close), but also from Ecuador and other places in Central and South Americas. It would take a lot of suffering for me to motivate to leave my country, especially by a route that could easily end in my death.

But I digress. Footprints cause me to think….

My first camping spot wasn’t very scenic. In fact, it was kinda closed in. I didn’t much like it, but I had chosen it for one night only, so it was fine. And even a not great campsite is better than sitting in a florescent lit room in front of a computer for eight hours….

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Even though the site was kinda crummy, the sunset was spectacular and reminded me of silver linings.
I am happy to be here.

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Solo camping navigating. I’ve been trying to teach Pugsly, but she just wants to sleep.

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Ow. Don't mess with Texas.

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I learned to use duct tape to get those near invisible prickly pear prickers out! Works!

It took me two hours to go 10 miles to my new campsite. It’s great!
The Chisos mountains and the doggies are my companions.

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I got to do some outdoor reading, but this giant orange threatening wasp looking creature kept hovering around me, so I went inside to the camper.
Still, not too shabby. I’m here for two days.

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When I was 17 my dad took me to Lake Tahoe. He’d gotten some kind of great deal on a resort room, so we went north from his apartment in Berkeley.

The views were spectacular. Gigantic mountains jutting out of a vast deep blue lake. After about half a day, or maybe just a few hours, I refused to leave the room. I’d rather read, I said.
I didn’t know what was wrong, only that it felt really uncomfortable to be outside.

At first, my dad thought that I was being a petulant teenager, but after a while I was able to communicate to him some of what I was feeling.

The mountains were too big and too far away and when I looked at them I had a dread sense of disconnection with the world I was viewing and that was so unnerving I retreated inside to the safe, small room.

My dad immediately understood. He’d had panic attacks when he was in his early 20’s and saw those same symptoms in my words and actions. He made me go sit on a pier and talk to him about it. I thought that if I spoke the words of the fear, that it would get worse. Like feeding a monster. He said that the opposite would happen. That when you give light to fear, it expels and dissipates the fears.

We sat on that pier next to the waters for hours. At first, I was bundled up in a blanket, wound tight in a little ball, but after a while I realized that we were just having a normal conversation and I wasn’t tense anymore.

I started having debilitating panic attacks in my early 20s, and have carried those tensions with me to this day. I no longer have panic attacks like I did all those years ago, but I still have anxieties that can stop me in my tracks.

The benefits of the road and the pull of my nomadic soul outweigh even the most sleepless of nights. Walking on this desolate road near my current campsite is fraught with tensions, fears, wonderment, and desire.

Why do we so often seek out that which scares us?

Some hide from it in various ways: in an 8-5 job, by buying things in attempts to push away the quiet dark... television, interwebz, video games... escapism.

Others run headlong towards it. It hurts sometimes.
Maybe I’m not quite right on the head.

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Hi Hoyden and companion's
Thanks for the write up , and also the photos, some are quit captivating. Well Happy New Years to's you all, looking forward to the next leg of your adventure.

Russ
 
Read your entire post tonight and found it very enjoyable. Traveling solo is one of the few real pleasures of life. Enjoy your new life on the road.
 
Happy New Year Dawn. Big Bend is a beautiful place. We stayed in Cottonwood and Chisos. Next time we will get a permit. So much to explore. Have fun. jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
 
kmcintyre said:
Hey, who's lemonheads are those? Pugslys? :) Looks like a great camping spot!
Ha! The Endodontist in Tucson told me to suck on Lemonheads to stimulate the blocked salivary gland that was causing all the issues!
 
longhorn1 said:
Happy New Year Dawn. Big Bend is a beautiful place. We stayed in Cottonwood and Chisos. Next time we will get a permit. So much to explore. Have fun. jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
It is a great visit at Big Bend, but like most National Parks, dogs can't be on trails so I didn't do much hiking.
 
HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM HOT SPRINGS, AR! :-D

One year ago Argos doggie came home from Coconino Animal Shelter with me. He was so terrified of the world that I had to carry him from his kennel to my truck.

He has turned out to be a fun hiking buddy, a great guard dog, friend to Pugsly, and most amazing doggie companion.

Happy birthday/anniversary, Argos!


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hoyden said:
Ha! The Endodontist in Tucson told me to suck on Lemonheads to stimulate the blocked salivary gland that was causing all the issues!
They couldn't prescribe beer or wine? :) I'm glad it was something good!
 
Young Lady, you are living la vida loca!! Fabulous, fantastic, fun, well, I do get excited when I see someone doing something I don't have the cojones to do yet would love to. Yes, dogs are not allowed in more and more places, to our complete consternation. Good luck and I'll hope you have some protection aside from your doggies. Travel smart and stay safe! I'll look forward to more of your updates!!

Dave

PS. There's always another way to look at those signs showing no dogs...to me it says no leash on your dog, let em run!!
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December 27 or 28th?, 2016 Twisted Shoe campsite Big Bend

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I wish I had my DR! 2 KTMs just rode by. Jealous! So many of these roads would be great for a little dual-sport or off-road motorcycle. I was sold my DR200 before I left town – it was just too awkward for me to load and unload on my own. I was considering getting a smaller dirt bike for the camper, but timing didn’t work out. My mountain bicycle also didn’t make it for lack of a rack, so all my exploring is on foot for the time being. That’s okay, the dogs can’t go with me on either two-wheeled vehicle anyway.

When I popped up, before I put the dogs in the camper, I cleaned some. I pulled up the carpet, swept the floor, and let the carpet air out in the sun for a bit. Might as well. This little space can get messy very quickly and that makes it difficult to maneuver and more prone to accidents (like coffee spillage! The horror!) Better to keep the camper neat and tidy as much as possible.

I need a project because just campering is still waiting out my days until bedtime, and that’s part of why I left Arizona. Also, I think too much coffee in the morning is making for a spacey tiredness in the afternoons. Changing that tomorrow morning. Will have tea instead.

I did jumping jacks today and contemplated what it was like for Pioneers out here.
 
I didn’t want to get up this morning. I didn’t sleep well and really just wanted to stay in bed. I could see the morning lights bleeding through the camper windows, so I opened one to peek out. Holy cow the sky was gorgeous!

I leapt out of bed, shoved my feet into shoes, grabbed my camera, and ran outside.

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Some days I wake up and just feel like driving. At first I felt like I should leave Big Bend because driving around the part and not – getting somewhere … “making miles” seemed like a waste of gas and time. But then I realized that the drive is scenic and to enrich my knowledge, and that is okay. “Accomplishing” something doesn’t have to be the goal.

And I saw some great sights!

My two favorite creatures so far this trip are roadrunners and quail. Such funny creatures!

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I took a drive to the more Eastern side of the park and saw kayakers putting into the Rio Grande. It was a perfect day for it too – temperature in the 70’s, no wind.

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And a giant rock wall border.

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I went to the Ranger Station to see if there was a different campsite available tonight just for a change of scenery. Every car-camping spot in the park was booked! I overhead a couple trying to figure out where to stay that night. I invited them to camp with me at my Twisted Shoe site, and we caravanned out there.

When we arrived at my very out of the way campsite I was surprised to see three young men set up there. They had a backpack site reserved up past the trailhead, but when one of their cars couldn’t make this “high clearance only” road, they parked far back and hiked up the road. They saw this empty campsite late in the afternoon and thought perhaps no one was coming so they set up.

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I invited them to stay and we could all share the site and have a mini-party, but they decided to forge on to their official spot a few miles further.

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They packed up and went their way. My other two new friends and I shared a nice chicken salad dinner and watched the unexciting sunset over a bottle of wine.

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Nice reports, I love Big Bend. Did you make it to Terlingua?

One issue I have noticed too with my FWC is leaving a campsite empty and coming back to find it occupied, even though I had it reserved. I've tried leaving folding camp chairs in the site but have had a couple stolen so I've resorted to carrying a small orange warning cone to leave there, which hasn't been taken yet and is cheaper than even the supermarket camp chairs.
 
We use a similar sign attached to a stiff wire. Can stick it in the ground or hang it over the edge of picnic table with a rock on the wire to hold it in place.
Signs are easy to make with computer, printer, and laminating sheets. Some Office Depot or Staples can laminate them for you. Make several.

Paul
 

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