Revisiting heavy duty trucks

Looks to me that nine of the ten are body on frame trucks or SUVs that are probably mostly 4wd.
 
No list like that can be accurate without including the mid 80's MBZ 123 & 126 diesels. There is one listed in the million mile club. My 82 has 650K miles and that is not uncommon.

cwd
 
Depending on your age and occupation(s) you may have already done so without realizing it.

I used to be called on by a W/D rep who averaged 150k a year. VWoA eventually caught onto his use of their vehicles and used him for durability testing. He always got next year's model this year, for free. All he had to do was have a dealership do ALL of the work on the vehicle. They logged & noted EVERYTHING, including how much fuel he was buying for it.
 
Well I did drive a work truck for years and probably put 100 miles a week on it. I work for the subway system so not a lot of highway miles. I've had my Solara for 11 years and I haven't broken 85,000. Wouldn't have half of that if not for my photography habit :) Only live 2 1/2 miles from work. Guess I'm not quite caught up but once I retire all bets are off! Lookout West here I come to wander!
 
slus said:
1/2 ton vs 3/4 ton vs 1 ton
I'm not going to lie, I don't need anything more than a 1/2 ton gasser. The new 1/2 tons are very capable trucks, especially the new F150s, huge payload and towing capacity. I certainly don't NEED a diesel in a heavy duty truck, and it is an 8-9k premium in price, but I do like having extra capability. I chalk both the diesel and heavy duty truck up to a luxury feature, I know I'll never justify it any other way.


Hope this helps someone.
-Eric
Click to expand...

From my point of view ... this is the elephant in the room. A half ton will meet - most needs. As much as the 1/2 ton FWC combo gets poo poo'd by the 3/4/ 1 Ton crowd .... Its not like 1/2 tons are exploding or causing accidents everywhere .... how much of our desire to get the greatest and best super wizzbanger $%Ton truck has to do with consumerism than with real practicality.

This is ok if you have unlimited funds. I am trying to retire early so I can drive my 1/2 ton and Hawk while I am still healthy. A new 3/4 ton at this point would set my retirement plans back at least a year. I mention this as I believe the best truck is either the one the you already have ... or the one that is the best deal at the right time and right place. The springs, shocks, motors etc like slus says are for the most part are luxuries. My opinion is if you have the money spend it ... if funds are limited buy the truck that is going to let you enjoy it the most and actually get out to use your FWC.

Last month I was talking to a guy who had a tricked out truck that he invested lots of $$$$ to go to Baja with. But he can't afford to take time off work because he is still paying for the truck.

.... and yes my next truck will likely be a 1 Ton :)
 
i'm a big fan of buying used and fixing up as needed my truck & camper have cost me a whopping total of 1/2 to 1/3 of whata new truck would
 
I think there is also a crowd that wants to drive their truck and camper combo in the same manner as they would an unloaded pickup.

I have a 1/2 ton and I drive accordingly. I give myself more braking distance, I slow down over train tracks and bumpy roads. I'm conservative on the gas pedal etc. With myself, GF and loaded Hawk I'm right at my max payload. I have my Hawk on my truck 365 days a year and use it all the time. For me it's an awesome combo.

I feel I have more than enough braking, power and suspension (with ride rite airbags).
 
With 9260 miles on it since I got it, my avg is 11.11 mpg (us gallons). Best is 13.9 when we had a section of construction slow downs to go to at 50mph, and again 12.36 at an avg of 60 mph in the Canadian Rockies.

Traveling to Utah and back from Calgary I was doing 70-75 mph on average, and not slowing down for corners (much) or hills (not at all).
The truck hawls, and is a hoot to drive.

All this is with the Hawk on it.
 
Bill D said:
I think there is also a crowd that wants to drive their truck and camper combo in the same manner as they would an unloaded pickup.

I have a 1/2 ton and I drive accordingly. I give myself more braking distance, I slow down over train tracks and bumpy roads. I'm conservative on the gas pedal etc. With myself, GF and loaded Hawk I'm right at my max payload. I have my Hawk on my truck 365 days a year and use it all the time. For me it's an awesome combo.

I feel I have more than enough braking, power and suspension (with ride rite airbags).
Click to expand...
I am the same. I have a 05 Tundra and I drive it like I want it to last. I am not ashamed to say I slow down for bumps and stay farther back from the next car. I got up to 17 MPG on my trip from southern Idaho to Priest lake, then to Kalispel and down 93 back home.
 
idahoron said:
I drive it like I want it to last. I am not ashamed to say I slow down for bumps and stay farther back from the next car.
Click to expand...
I concur. My parents taught me the importance of taking care of things, putting things back where they belong after use and having a little pride in the things I worked for. It's one of the best things they could have ever taught me other than respect for others and a few other spiritual things. There is NO shame in our game!
 
Ace! said:
The F250 and F350 have the same springs. The F350 has an overload spring in the rear. The F250 does not have the overload unless ordered with a heavier suspension group (i.e., camper package). In that case, that there is a heavier suspension package, the springs, including the overload spring, are the same. The only difference then becomes the block height under the rear springs. The front springs are always the same between F250/F350. The fronts only change between option groups or engine, but not because of whether it is F250 or F350. An F250 and F350 ordered with the same engine or options will have the same front springs, the same rear springs and if ordered with the camper package (as an example) will both have the same overload springs and sway bars.

The "off road" shocks with the off road package are just Rancho "branded" shocks. They are made by the same company either way (Tenneco if I remember right). If you're going off road, the value of the off road package is the skid plates, not the suspension components (shocks).
Click to expand...
Based on my interpretation of the Ford Fleet specs while the F250 and 350 have the same number of springs (assuming the extra one on the 350 is indeed an overload as stated) the ones in the F250 are thinner and will deflect more so they aren't exactly the same. Please let me know if I am reading it wrong. P59

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2017/2017_F-250_F-350_F-450_SD_Pickups_-_Specs.pdf

My main concern if I get a 250 is that the camper won't sag and as also said earlier, it might be better to put the money in a 350 instead of trying to make a 250 work. Of course 250's much easier to find.....
 
Happyjax said:
Based on my interpretation of the Ford Fleet specs while the F250 and 350 have the same number of springs (assuming the extra one on the 350 is indeed an overload as stated) the ones in the F250 are thinner and will deflect more so they aren't exactly the same. Please let me know if I am reading it wrong. P59

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2017/2017_F-250_F-350_F-450_SD_Pickups_-_Specs.pdf

My main concern if I get a 250 is that the camper won't sag and as also said earlier, it might be better to put the money in a 350 instead of trying to make a 250 work. Of course 250's much easier to find.....
Click to expand...
Expect some sagging regardless of model; simply a function of ladening a spring, regardless if coil or leaf. Overload spring does help reduce sagging, but, creates a slightly harsher ride while unladen.

I have a 2016 F-350 with the enhanced payload option. My fully packed FWC Hawk caused a about 1-2" of rear sagging. I did not appear to have any adverse performance, but, I did not care for the look so I installed airbags to level the rear. Unexpectedly, ride comfort improved when laden with the camper.
 
Downside to any 1 ton is the additional weight fees at registration. May or may not be much depending on your State, but it is a factor.

Our '96 vintage CTD has under-ride type over-load leaves. With the 6.5' Phoenix in the bed the O/L's were engaged and that made for a stiff ride in the rear. When I had other rear axle work done I had that shop do their trick of flipping the O/L's upside down. That took them out of engagement which dramatically softened the ride and the truck still sits level.

I know that they're easier to install and probably are less expensive, but I see air springs as a band-aid. Find a custom spring mfg and get them to build you springs that will support the camper at the desired ride height. We got lucky in that the OEM springs did this, but while I might install air springs for a short term solution I'd have contacted Deaver about custom springs.
 
That Fleet Ford link is awesome, anyone know of similar for Ram HD, I found a upfitters guide, but from what I could see it was just chassis measurements
Thx
Keith
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

M
Grandby vs Kenai?
ckent323
C
F
2015 Tacoma SR5 w/ Eagle Suspension Upgrades
firsttracksbmax
F
M
Found a short-wheel base truck, own a 8' FWC Grandby. Conversions?
Mderou
M
B
Does anyone have any over-the-payload related incidents/stories?
bluffwandering
B
h2opup
Newbie Query - which truck best for an ATC?
Wandering Sagebrush
Wandering Sagebrush

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom