Roof lift gas struts

I swapped out my 20 lb external struts on my fleet for a pair of 40 lb in the front and 30 lb in the rear. Makes it a little easier to raise and comes down about the same. Leaves me with a set of 20 lb struts which I will list in the gear exchange if anyone is interested.
 
Hi Guys,

I have the struts, and know that I need the offset mounting brackets from Suspa... but what size/type of screws did you use? I can't find this info anywhere, and don't want to destroy my camper!

Thanks so much,
Riley

'14 Raven
 
Based on lots of great info on this thread, I just installed Suspa C16-15952 40# struts front and rear on my Hawk, to replace the existing 20# struts. The 20 lb struts were fine until I added a 160W Zamp panel to the roof (my roof also has the factory aluminum rack). Then it was more difficult for me to lift, and impossible for my wife.

My wife can easily lift the camper with the 40# struts installed. To lower the camper, I have to shut the door and put the Fantastic fan on high to suck the air out. The roof then comes down slowly on its own. Takes a little more time to lower, but I think it will be worth it for the ease of lifting the roof.

I probably would have gone with 30# rear struts, but the person I spoke on the phone with at Suspa said they would cost $100 each. FWC said they would not sell the 30# individually, and it was over $300 for the kit (40# front and 30# rear) from them. Interestingly, after I had already placed my order for the 40# struts, I received an e-mail response from Suspa for an earlier request I had sent. The e-mail said the 30# struts were $30 each. The 40# had already shipped, so I decided to install and keep them. Here's the quote from Suspa, along with the part number for the 30# struts in case someone is looking:

[SIZE=11pt]"The 30# strut is the same dimensions as your current 20# strut. It is a C16-22241.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]https://shop.suspa.com/c16-22241-gas-spring-p4200.aspx[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]$30 each"[/SIZE]
 
BobM said:
Here's a video I did today showing how easy it is to lift the roof with a Pro Audio speaker stand and a power drill. I don't have lift struts on my rig and don't need them.


The stand can be purchased here On-Stage SS8800B+ Power Crank-Up Speaker Stand | Guitar Center Just drill out the tripod because all you need is the pole. Save the rubber feet from the tripod to put on the ends of the pole
Click to expand...
I was a little confused about the whole "speaker lift" issue until I found this post - thanks Bob for this very useful post. I have ordered a speaker lift from a Canadian dealer for $115 and free shipping.
 
You will want to drill out the tripod rivets because you only need the pole. Save the tripod rubber feet to put on the pole ends. If you want to use a drill, find a socket that fit the crank shaft. I used just the drill chuck at first and it slightly wore out the shaft corners
 
To those interested in part numbers and installation details, you will find this post useful (click)

I used 60 lb springs all around, good for the front where my solar panel is, but in the back where the roof is empty, I have to physically pull it down.
 
buckland said:
Well, after purchasing the hardware from 4 different sources and buying the 40" struts from FWC, I started all the pre measuring to be sure all would go as planned. I have found that the 2011 Eagles have 2 issues:
The front roof clamp latches need to be moved out approximately 3 " for there to be enough room to accommodate the 40" strut i.e. the top of the strut where it is attached to the roof needs to be right where the latch is (wouldn't ya know). On the back wall above the door, I believe I might have to remove the drip edge and cut a few inches off each end.
I have tried to ask FWC for info but received only one word answers... really.

So my questions are to 2011 Eagle owners have struts or to anyone who has moved the latches for some reason, please let me know anything to avoid. Where does one get the gray sticky putty tape that goes beneath the clamp and is the roof latch also cemented to the roof? If so what kind would I user? Any other advice would be appreciated too.

I will move the bottom clamps over using the left screw holes for the right screws...avoiding 2 extra drill holes.

Sure hope all this will be worth it in the end.... in for a penny in for a pound.
Click to expand...
Buckland, Thank you, thank you thank you! I have been measuring and figuring the past few days with plans to add the struts from the kit from 4WC. I also tried asking 4WC questions in several different forms trying to explain to them that I didn't think the install was going to work as their instructions describe without moving the front catches. Same as you all I could get is terse answers telling me the kit was right and no actual customer service. This post and your instructions that follow are going to be very helpful so I just wanted to pass along my thanks, I'm grateful you took the time for the photos and instructions. I guess 4WC will take your money and that's the end of their service.
 
40lb struts with the struts mounted on the side is too much. (unless I have kayaks on top) I have to go outside to pull the roof down. It's easy to pull down, but 30# would be better.
 
Just saw this. That's what this WTW does so well. People asking people things that makes life easier. I hope you found my 10 page PDF somewhere on here (I think I put it on the the "Lift Thingies" thread). Lots of photos of the process But if not I still have a copy and would be happy to email you it. Just send a PM and I'll send it along.
 
I did find your pdf, very helpful, thanks for taking the time to document it. I am just waiting for the butyl tape and a nice day when I'm not at work or on an adventure, then the struts are going on!
 
Ok, so I installed the struts a few weeks back, and presto! I can finally pop the top without the assistance of the speaker stand. It is still a bit of a challenge, enough that I don't think my wife can open it, but my back is thanking me already! Anyway, I noted the instruction to avoid drilling through the wire for the rear install, but I ended up finding that easier said than done. I hit it dead center with the second hole (lucky on the first I guess). Now my 2 porch lights do not work. I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to repair / rewire the damaged wire being that it runs through the interior tubing of the frame and splicing the wire is impossible. I am guessing I'll need to go back to the fuse and rewire something external to the frame? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 
After carefully looking things over, first thing I’d do is call the builder and ask a few questions based on your snooping. Then I would see if you can pull the interior wall back from the frame to see if you can find the wire and pull it out of the frame tube. You might get lucky and be able to splice things together. Good luck!

That is never fun. I’ve had to replace the entire wiring harnesses in two UH 1E helicopters after a metal smith hit the wire bundle dead center as he drilled out about 4 feet of rivets for a skin replacement. It was hot and humid work in SE Asia.
 
Remove the screws on wall paneling and gently pull back. Wire is usually just snaked through frame... sometimes they drill through the up rights. You should be able to add in a connector ... wrap in black tape.... or if able shrink wrap.
 
FWIW

Suspa gas springs are way overpriced. I just bought a new set from Gemini gas springs in Canada. Ordered from US. About 25% of what the Suspas cost. $160ish ca? for four.
 
Northbynortheast said:
FWIW

Suspa gas springs are way overpriced. I just bought a new set from Gemini gas springs in Canada. Ordered from US. About 25% of what the Suspas cost. $160ish ca? for four.
Click to expand...
Hey Northbynortheast,

I'm looking to get some struts for my 2009 Finch.
When you ordered from Gemini, what information did you have to provide them to order their springs?
I know the Finch needs 40" struts but their website shows multiple internal and external diameters and I'm unsure of which to get.

Thanks
 
buckland said:
Hello again... just out of hibernation of New England and about to head to Kentucky with the 2011 Eagle on the 2001 Tacoma. I had installed the roof lifts last fall and then had to wait. A week ago I was able to load the camper and see how things held out with the winter cold...whoa a cold one here. I tried the roof lift and it was not nice. I used the factory install method ...made a 40" template arm so I positioned the arms correctly ( recall the front roof clamps had to be moved out to get the right lift position). The front worked great but the back, even though I used the FWC 40" template for the 40" required lift supports, the 'stretch was too far out . The directions received from FWC was to put the lift bracket ball up against the roof clamp.I did that and speaking from a 2011 Eagle stand point that is not right. I decided the geometry of the lift was wrong... I could feel it did not have the lift needed at the right time of the radius swing of the lifter. I decided to be yankee conservative and move both lifters in on the roof 1.5" so that I could use one of the same drill holes. Sure enough ...wow... a huge improvement. The roof lifts with only a push instead of needing the crank. And most importantly at the top of the arch... it gently allows the panels to pop into place... no hard snap. I am very happy. I did plug the extra hole with a screw and silicone. So we are off to KY and then Virginia George Washington National Forest and on up to PA and then home. I just wanted to let anyone who decides to add lift supports to their Eagle (needing the 40" 30 lb supports) if they need help just ask and I can give what info I gained in the process.
Click to expand...
Hey Buckland, hope its not to late to revive this thread. I'm looking to add some lift supports to my 2010 Finch and have been using your PDF as reference for an install. You mentioned earlier that the rear panel didnt pop in and out as easily prior to your fix of moving in the rear roof strut supports. Should I not use the 40 inch jig method to determine the placement of the brackets? Any and all advice is appreciated.
Thanks!
 
Ah yes I remember ... the 40” jig is definitely the way to go. It needed a bit of time to get the struts ‘worked in I guess. Be sure to put those 1/4” aluminum plates on the exterior with the through bolts from interior to the struts. That makes it rock solid. I will say...since that install I removed the Suspa 30 lb and bought Gemini (from Canada) 40 lb. as I have 160 watt panel and roof racks. It is real nice and easy to put up and down. I would suggest 40’s if you intend to have stuff on the roof.
 
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