Vic's new 2012 Puma build

fish more said:
Great job Vic, looks like alot of storage to get rid of clutter. Nice use of the space !!
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Thanks. Someone convince me why I should build another cabinet in the rear corner and/or one for over the window!
 
Vic, earlier you mentioned not using glue on any of your cabinets. How do you assemble then together? Do you worry about them coming apart as you drive off road? I was thinking about a combination of pocket screws and either L brackets or 1x1s in the corners to screw into. Also thought about bolts and nuts in the place of screws. Interested to hear what you did. I was luck that my local wood supply has baltic birch in both 5x5 and 4x8 sheets so I could get the longer pieces that I needed for the cabinet top/bottom/ and front.
 
Wow Vic, what a super nice job you’ve done on your Puma build. The amount of storage you created using the front wall is incredible, and provides a great size bed as well. Your electrical is so well thought out and designed, very impressive, and I’m sure will be trouble free. All in all, it’s an excellent use of space, nicely done cabinetry, and electrical, and looks awesome as well.

Hope you have years of enjoyment and memories. I know building can be fun in its own right, but using the camper is what it’s all about!

Thanks for sharing all the photos along with commentary.

Poky
 
Vic Harder said:
The cabinets have really nice LED lights that are turned on with a switch in the 6-gang Blue Sea Below-Deck panel right at the entrance. The overhead lights were replaced with these 40" long LED bars that are similar to the new FWC lights. Mine are wave activated and touchless dim as well. Super bright when needed, subtle when wanted.
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Hi Vic,

I'm planning on upgrading my fluorescent fixtures when I came upon this thread. I'm a big fan of the lights you installed and was hoping to get a couple questions regarding how they function.

1) Are the lights simply hardwired into the camper since they are 12V (negating the use of the power adapter)?
2) I cant tell from your photos but did you pry back the wooden strips to hide the wires connecting the 3 lights in your case?
3) Is the motion sensing light turned on by the soft-fabric wall when lowering/raising the roof?

I plan on getting two 20 inch bars so that I can separately turn them on and off.

Thanks
 
screws and L-brackets. Last two builds were fine with that, even when many of the screws in the camper itself were backing out from the vibration. If you are worried, you could put a bit of wood glue in the pre-drilled screw pilot holes before putting the screw in.

Nuts and bolts with loctite on them could work. I put loctite on the T-nuts where/when I use them. I don't like the 1x1" idea. Framing takes up valuable space and adds weight.

4x8 Baltic Birch? Man, I would have loved that. Gotta keep that in mind for build #4... :p
 
PokyBro said:
Wow Vic, what a super nice job you’ve done on your Puma build. The amount of storage you created using the front wall is incredible, and provides a great size bed as well. Your electrical is so well thought out and designed, very impressive, and I’m sure will be trouble free. All in all, it’s an excellent use of space, nicely done cabinetry, and electrical, and looks awesome as well.

Hope you have years of enjoyment and memories. I know building can be fun in its own right, but using the camper is what it’s all about!

Thanks for sharing all the photos along with commentary.

Poky
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Just a note about the lack of a window in the camper. I use a nice rear view camera/dash cam mirror anyway, so losing the window was of no concern for driving safety.

In some ways I don't want the project to end, so I am thinking of tackling the ceiling liner next. Not sure I want to take the whole roof off, so am pondering ways of getting a great look/feel differently. Someone on the forum mentioned having a wooden ceiling liner. It occurs to me I could use the same 1/8" maple siding on the roof. I am adding a canoe to my kit soon, and intend to brace the roof racks from the inside like Jonathan did, so gotta dig into the ceiling anyway.

Thoughts on using wood on the ceiling?
 
chingchangchop said:
Hi Vic,

I'm planning on upgrading my fluorescent fixtures when I came upon this thread. I'm a big fan of the lights you installed and was hoping to get a couple questions regarding how they function.

1) Are the lights simply hardwired into the camper since they are 12V (negating the use of the power adapter)?
2) I cant tell from your photos but did you pry back the wooden strips to hide the wires connecting the 3 lights in your case?
3) Is the motion sensing light turned on by the soft-fabric wall when lowering/raising the roof?

I plan on getting two 20 inch bars so that I can separately turn them on and off.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Always nice when a post here on WtW inspires someone or saves some time. I know I read every single thread on this forum a few years ago before I posted anything. Learned so much from all the folks here!

1) Yes, the lights are powered directly by 12v. I removed the light over the counter and tapped into that "always on" power for the lights. As you know, the kits come with just ONE of the light bars enabled for the "wave" function. The others cascade off of that one bar. And that special bar has to be the one getting the power.

2) I poked holes in the roof liner. Its structural integrity is already compromised, so that wasn't too hard. Fished the wires through using a section of bare solid copper wire.

3) No. (Just ran out and checked that now) You have to get really close (2-3 inches) to the sensor to activate the lights. I like that you can dim them and they remember that light level when you reactivate them.

For entry into the camper in the dark, I used the in-cabinet/floor light switch by the door. Turn that on, enter the camper and wave the lights on. I also kept the one light over the bed for use at night, since reaching the light sensor requires getting out of bed first.
 
There is so much good information here and I have gleaned much of it. Vic has been a go to guy several times. Thanks for all you share with us Vic!
 
Vic Harder said:
I am 195, so about the same weight. In the first build of this camper I had just screwed the hinges into the plywood cladding I put up over the rough wood frame of the camper. That plywood bent considerably when sitting on it. Hence the through bolts going to the outside of the camper... using T-Nuts as anchors. That means the anchors do not flex and there is no stress on the 1/2" maple plywood at all.

That said, the hinges themselves can bend. I've taken to zip tying the two outer parts of the hinge so they can't separate and bend more. Does that make sense? I can take a pic later.
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I understand the need to through bolt the hinges to the wall. I know the hinges can support over 400 lbs each but does the seat give any when you sit on it or does it stay relatively rigid? Thanks!
 
Ronin said:
I understand the need to through bolt the hinges to the wall. I know the hinges can support over 400 lbs each but does the seat give any when you sit on it or does it stay relatively rigid? Thanks!
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rigid, except for the hinges flexing as I said above. Here is a pic of what they are supposed to look like (this is my wife's seat...)
full


This is my seat

full


Not sure why they are flexing, given that they are supposed to support 500 pounds. Input/ideas welcome.
 
Wooo-boy Vic. You better not have that extra slice of apple pie:)

I think the 500lb load spec is valid only if the load is placed at mid point between the wall and the end of the arms (that are bent). Your load is probably at least at the end of the arms. If your seat extends out past the end of the arms, you have a lever, and that increases the force on the arms greatly if you sit on the edge of the seat.
 
Vic Harder said:
rigid, except for the hinges flexing as I said above. Here is a pic of what they are supposed to look like (this is my wife's seat...)


This is my seat



Not sure why they are flexing, given that they are supposed to support 500 pounds. Input/ideas welcome.
Click to expand...
I see what you mean - that would be concerning. Maybe an extra leg centered opposite the 2 hinges to take the pressure off the hinge. You could use another folding hinge attached to a piece of 1x1 stock. Good luck!
 
BlueSky said:
Wooo-boy Vic. You better not have that extra slice of apple pie:)

I think the 500lb load spec is valid only if the load is placed at mid point between the wall and the end of the arms (that are bent). Your load is probably at least at the end of the arms. If your seat extends out past the end of the arms, you have a lever, and that increases the force on the arms greatly if you sit on the edge of the seat.
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heheheh. My wife made her famous ChocChipOatmeal cookies yesterday. First time in months. CoronaAid comfort food. I had 6 of them. Sigh...

It is the back arm where my butt is (not the knees end) that bends. Hmmm.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
I did, and I still can’t do that kind of work.
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:rolleyes: I feel the same way about fly fishing, sewing, hunting, hiking (like the 3pins do!), playing an instrument, parenting, cooking and many other things.
 
Ronin said:
I see what you mean - that would be concerning. Maybe an extra leg centered opposite the 2 hinges to take the pressure off the hinge. You could use another folding hinge attached to a piece of 1x1 stock. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Now that is a good idea. I have a few spare hinges.
 
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