Wiring diagram anyone?

[Oryguntroutbum]

I consider myself fairly handy. Comfortable with doing almost all upgrades myself. But I'll be honest. I'm not very comfortable with wiring.

Would anyone be able to provide a diagram, handwritten or otherwise, that would outline the basic wiring diagram?

Dealing with a 2012 Raven with 2 batteries from the factory. It's going on a 2007 Chevy 2500. I know that probably doesn't matter but just in case [emoji6]

I've purchased the 3 wire Atwood connectors (male and female).

Thanks in advance. I really do appreciate it.

Chris

 

[Vic Harder]

Chris,

Which part of the wiring diagram? Truck to Camper connections? Inside the camper? What else does the Raven have for lights/fans/appliances? Is there an existing DC fuse panel, battery separator, etc?

 

[Oryguntroutbum]

Chris,

Which part of the wiring diagram? Truck to Camper connections? Inside the camper? What else does the Raven have for lights/fans/appliances? Is there an existing DC fuse panel, battery separator, etc?

Vic,
Just the wiring from the camper to the truck and any return wiring that would need to come back to the FWC installed batteries. It has an Iota system installed inside.

Thanks

 

[kmcintyre]

The whole wiring thing had me confused too when I got my FWC. Once you "figure it out" you'll understand but I don't have a wiring diagram.

There should be a large gauge (very low number, thick) wire from your truck battery to the camper that goes (eventually) to the camper batteries. On mine there's another wire that goes from the side of camper (opposite from where the camper battery is and where the plug in for shore power is located) to the other side to the camper battery. Reason is that all the camper wiring, plugs, etc. are on that side of the camper and the battery only fits on the other side (I think they've changed that now). All the other wiring is to connect the isolator, battery to battery, etc.

Be sure to put connectors on those points so you can take the camper off . Most people use Anderson power connectors.

Sorry that I don't have a diagram and that may make it more confusing .

 

[Vic Harder]

ok, I can add a bit to what kmcintyre said.

I used 2 AWG cable wiring my Hawk shell to my 2500 HD. Both +ve and -ve leads are over cable, meaning I am not using the truck/chassis for ground/return wiring.

From the truck battery, the -ve cable goes to towards the back with out any breakers/fuses. The +ve cable runs 8" to a 100A breaker
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Systems-Surface-Circuit/dp/B0051P01BW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478829489&sr=8-3&keywords=100a+breaker

I mounted to the plastic bits that support the fuse panel on next the battery on the driver's side of the engine bay. From there the two cables run over the fender liner/under the brake booster and parallel to a bundle of wires already in the harness there. I tuck them along that wire harness all the way back to the end of the truck cab, and then punched two 1/2" holes in the truck bed just over the pipe/hose from the fuel filler cap. Those holes are lined with plastic chassis guides to prevent chaffing. Everything is zip tied and tucked away from moving bits along the way.

One the cables come through the truck bed, I left about 12" and then cut them and attached anderson power pole connectors (actually, the connectors need to be put on first, time wise. This is a logical flow description, not timeline!)

I removed the wires from the passenger side , which is where my shell originally had some dinky 10g wire run from, when I gutted the shell last fall. So now I made two new holes on the driver's side and ran the cables from that side over the water tank area to the passenger side next to the water tank, which is where my battery/electric box is. I left about 18' of slack on the outside of the camper and attached the anderson power pole connectors there. You need that much so you can (dis)connect the two without having to try and manage that through a turnbuckle door. Been there... don't like doing it that way!

At the battery box, I have another of those 100A breakers on the +ve cable and from there it connects to a fancy battery separator, much better than the typical factory installed ones - the blue sea ML-7622 ACR.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990170140.pdf

The ground wire does NOT go directly to the camper battery either, but to my battery monitor's shunt. I use a Victron, http://shop.pkys.com/Victron-Energy-BMV-702-Precision-Battery-Monitor_p_2807.html

but the Trimetric would be wired the same way. The other end of the shunt does eventually go to the battery -ve terminal.

Does that help?

 

[PaulT]

Stumbled across this from shortly after I received my 2014 Hawk. Some may find it useful.
I hope it uploads and is visible to readers.

Paul

 

[Oryguntroutbum]

Thank you all. I really appreciate the time you took to help me out. Hopefully we will get this thing wired this weekend along with the lift supports and be on the road next weekend. You guys rock.

 

[BMH44]

Stumbled across this from shortly after I received my 2014 Hawk. Some may find it useful.
I hope it uploads and is visible to readers.

Paul

Thank You that is exactly what I was looking for.

 

[BMH44]

ok, I can add a bit to what kmcintyre said.

I used 2 AWG cable wiring my Hawk shell to my 2500 HD. Both +ve and -ve leads are over cable, meaning I am not using the truck/chassis for ground/return wiring.

From the truck battery, the -ve cable goes to towards the back with out any breakers/fuses. The +ve cable runs 8" to a 100A breaker
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Systems-Surface-Circuit/dp/B0051P01BW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478829489&sr=8-3&keywords=100a+breaker

I mounted to the plastic bits that support the fuse panel on next the battery on the driver's side of the engine bay. From there the two cables run over the fender liner/under the brake booster and parallel to a bundle of wires already in the harness there. I tuck them along that wire harness all the way back to the end of the truck cab, and then punched two 1/2" holes in the truck bed just over the pipe/hose from the fuel filler cap. Those holes are lined with plastic chassis guides to prevent chaffing. Everything is zip tied and tucked away from moving bits along the way.

One the cables come through the truck bed, I left about 12" and then cut them and attached anderson power pole connectors (actually, the connectors need to be put on first, time wise. This is a logical flow description, not timeline!)

I removed the wires from the passenger side , which is where my shell originally had some dinky 10g wire run from, when I gutted the shell last fall. So now I made two new holes on the driver's side and ran the cables from that side over the water tank area to the passenger side next to the water tank, which is where my battery/electric box is. I left about 18' of slack on the outside of the camper and attached the anderson power pole connectors there. You need that much so you can (dis)connect the two without having to try and manage that through a turnbuckle door. Been there... don't like doing it that way!

At the battery box, I have another of those 100A breakers on the +ve cable and from there it connects to a fancy battery separator, much better than the typical factory installed ones - the blue sea ML-7622 ACR.
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990170140.pdf

The ground wire does NOT go directly to the camper battery either, but to my battery monitor's shunt. I use a Victron, http://shop.pkys.com/Victron-Energy-BMV-702-Precision-Battery-Monitor_p_2807.html

but the Trimetric would be wired the same way. The other end of the shunt does eventually go to the battery -ve terminal.

Does that help?

Thank You that is very helpful

 

[GaryRpg]

It's a slippery slope isn't it? I upgraded my battery to Lithium and ended up with a pretty extensive rebuild in my 2017 Fleet shell.
Can someone put some eyes on this wiring diagram and parts list to see if I've do anything stupid?
Any suggestions are welcome.
On a related note.....I have almost competed my truck to camper wiring upgrade to thicker wires and will be posting details on this as soon as I have it completed and tested.
Thanks all.
-Gary

 

[Vic Harder]

It's a slippery slope isn't it? I upgraded my battery to Lithium and ended up with a pretty extensive rebuild in my 2017 Fleet shell.
Can someone put some eyes on this wiring diagram and parts list to see if I've do anything stupid?
Any suggestions are welcome.
On a related note.....I have almost competed my truck to camper wiring upgrade to thicker wires and will be posting details on this as soon as I have it completed and tested.
Thanks all.
-Gary

Did you forget to attach the diagram and parts list?

 

[BMH44]

I am going to eventually upgrade my 6 volt system to dual lithium batteries. When I do the initial wiring should I do Anderson plugs instead of the three prong trolling plug?Also what exactly is the wire you use for the run from plug to battery? 10-2 marine insulated?

 

[GaryRpg]

OK, I think I figured out how to post images. These go with my post from Feb 19.
Can someone give it a look?
And should I ground to the truck or to the battery terminal on the input side of the DC DC converter?
Thanks!

 

[Vic Harder]

looking pretty good. I don't see a Shunt for your battery monitoring in this diagram. That's pretty important and one of the things most people make mistakes on (I did!).

As for grounds, the truck already has several ground points so you don't need to add to those. I did run a wire from my ground buss to the camper frame.

 

[GaryRpg]

Thanks Vic,
The SOK battery that I have has a built in Battery Managment System. Do I still need a shunt with this? I can see state of charge, voltage, current, calculated capacity, cycle time and the balance between cells.
12V 206Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery Pack | SOK Battery
Plus, I have Bluetooth monitoring on both the Victron DC DC charger and the MPPT solar controller.
Would I still need a shunt?

For the grounds...I am using the existing FWC ground to camper wire (although I did need to splice since it was short and it runs through and inaccessible part of the cabinet. I also ran a 6AWG ground wire alongside the 6AWG hot wire from the DC DC controller up to the truck engine compartment. I currently have this attached to the battery negative but can easily move it to a frame ground.

Thanks for your insights and helping me stay on the straight and narrow path to not smoking my new system!
-Gary

 

[Vic Harder]

good that you ran two wires, including the ground. Grounding that to the truck battery is fine.

As for the SOK BMS vs Victron or other shunt... I dunno, since the BMS on my Battleborn batteries is not accessible to me, I rely on the shunt. YMMV.

 

[rubberlegs]

If your SOK battery is fairly new (with the updated BMS), I hear it works better. The one I got 16 months ago needed a shunt to measure SOC properly. The problem is the calc capacity measurement on those. Everything else seems to work great.