b team eagle camper wire job

thanks guys.

Nice Pvstoy.

Here are some better pics. I just put it in so I don't know how durable it's going to be. The unit isn't backlit.

why couldnt that meter be left to run all the time?
i probably uses just a few milliamps.
could you slip a led into the threaded mount to add a backlight?

Hi Jeff,

You could wire it hot on all the time and it uses very little juice. I just like the idea of having things off.

They do sell a model with a back light built in. I don't know if sliping a led in the back would work?

why couldnt that meter be left to run all the time?
i probably uses just a few milliamps.

It draws a max of 3 milliamps according to the paperwork.

have you thought about wirint that via a seperate set of wires directly to the camper battery?
i wonder if there would be any benefit?

hey Mark! opinion here?

battery info to the 10th of a volt is important.

the meter impedance should be such that it would present a better view if it had its own electrical path to the battery....i think.

have you thought about wirint that via a seperate set of wires directly to the camper battery?
i wonder if there would be any benefit?

hey Mark! opinion here?

battery info to the 10th of a volt is important.

the meter impedance should be such that it would present a better view if it had its own electrical path to the battery....i think.

I was thinking about that too...

I decided just to add it to the factory "info center" I got the same reading at the info center as the battery (camper mounted) I did notice voltage drop between the info center and the truck battery though. The meter accuracy is rated at .2V so it's no Fluke.

Heres a question for you electro guys. I have an Iota in the Hawk. When have 110 plugged in it dosn't charge the house batt. Can I run a seperate set of wires to the Iota with a fused + side to get it to charge or what am I doing wrong?

it should charge the battery. is this a factory install that has developed a problem? or a aftermarket add-on that has never worked?

i dont mean to be rude....just asking...

Jeff,
Its a factory install but I put the batt in after I bought the FWC used. I thought I installed it correctly. The lights work on batt. Knowing me I could have done something stupid but it's mystery to me. And dont worry about insulting me I have thick skin. I appreciate your input.

well the iota converter should charge the batt.
with the battery disconnected, does the iota power the lights and other 12v items ?

if yes....then there must be a connection problem to the battery. fuse is open or open circuit. with the batter disconnected check for 12v at the battery terminals while the iota is powered up.

if no... then need to check voltage output at iota as well as voltage feed to it....download its manual from the fwc site and check if it has internal fusing.

b team,
when i plug in a load at the 12v convenience outlet i see the info center really reacting to voltage drop. this reflects it's distance from the battery....electrically so to speak.
i still think a seperate set of wires to the battery terminals would be best to allow it to "see" what the battery sees.
i too ordered one of those meters. and i really am glad you found that unit and told us about it.....and the mounting location is really good as well.

well the iota converter should charge the batt.
with the battery disconnected, does the iota power the lights and other 12v items ?

if no... then need to check voltage output at iota as well as voltage feed to it....download its manual from the fwc site and check if it has internal fusing.

My iota from the factory was defective, didn't put out 12 volts. Was replaced under warranty.

I'll do a couple of the tests that Jeff suggested. With my llimited knowledge I'll see what happens and report back. Thnks guys.

the meter arrived and i got a chance to look it over.
mounting it in the existing monitor is problematic because the pca does not stand off far enough to clear the threaded stud on the meter.

the stud does not have sufficient depth to go all the way through the plywood cabinet face either.

i will put it on a plate, then mount the plate.

the meter arrived and i got a chance to look it over.
mounting it in the existing monitor is problematic because the pca does not stand off far enough to clear the threaded stud on the meter.

the stud does not have sufficient depth to go all the way through the plywood cabinet face either.
i will put it on a plate, then mount the plate.

I put one on the cabinet face as you see in one of the pictures.

I took a flat wood bit larger than the nut and took off some of the thickness. Then used a larger size washer and had enough room with the bigger hole to use a wrench to tighten the nut. I peeled off the tape to help it hold the rubber cradle in place.

REMEMBER...NOT TO DRILL TOO MUCH AND MAKE THE WOOD TOO THIN.

good idea. good idea

i was thinking on mounting it under the setee....as i want to be able to see it from the door, without climbing in.

Jeff,
Nurse Ratchett let me climb into the Hawk yesterday and here's what I discovered. The 110 will run the outlet plugs and the 3way on AC. The interior lights dont work unless you turn on the red pull out master switch and are very dim and the low power thing is screaming. The batt power guage shows very low. So in my bb brain I figured the problem is the Iota. It appears the power isnt running through it. I know it must be fused but all of the fuses I can see are good. Your thoughts.

there are fuses on the side of the iota that you checked?

the fridge runs directly on 110....and that works.
sorry but it is looking bad for the iota unit.

the goal now is to confirm that is is provided with power
...and then, if so,
...whether it outputs anything at all.

hey there

so your camper is new enough to where it does have the red 12v cut-off knob ?

* IMPORTANT ...

If you have the camper plugged into shore power and you want the power converter to throw a charge to the aux. camper battery, the red 12v mater knob needs to be pulled out ("ON").

It it is pushed in ("OFF"), the converter power will not be able to get power over to the aux. battery.

I'm guessing this is all it will be, should be simple.

Once the aux. battery / batteries have time to get charged up, the low warning beeps from the sensors should go off.

hope this helps

Let me know if you need more help -- I will be back in the office Tuesday - Saturday next week.

Stan

===============================================

Jeff,
Nurse Ratchett let me climb into the Hawk yesterday and here's what I discovered. The 110 will run the outlet plugs and the 3way on AC. The interior lights dont work unless you turn on the red pull out master switch and are very dim and the low power thing is screaming. The batt power guage shows very low. So in my bb brain I figured the problem is the Iota. It appears the power isnt running through it. I know it must be fused but all of the fuses I can see are good. Your thoughts.

Thanks Stan,
I've had the shore power plugged in for several days with the Master Switch pulled out and the batt does not charge. When I get a chance I'll pull the cover off the Iota as Jeff suggested and look for the fuses. Its a real shame if the Iota isnt functioning. This camper, an '04, was probably used 4 times before I got it but life will go on. Any further ideas will be appreciated.