b team eagle camper wire job

Excuse me while I interrupt the thread hijack :)p )

Had to come up with something to store my fishin' poles that was better than laying them all over valuable floor space.

Bought some miscellaneous footmans loops and bimini strap eyes:

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Fishing poles are out of the way while the camper top is up. I can also use this when driving. Shorter poles fit fine while longer ones need to be slid between the ceiling and lift mechanism. The rod fits between the ceiling and the bed when the top is down.

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I currently have some small elastic cords but velcro straps or a number of other things could be used to attach stuff to the ceiling. I'm going to hang my surfboard next time I camp at the beach.
 
Jeff,
I think I found a way to beat this dead horse alive. As it turns out Iota is just a few miles from my house. I'm going to put the FWC on the truck, drive it over there and let them figure it out. Thanks for your input it's always helpful and welcome.
 
Some fixes to unfinished stuff and small mods.

Finished wiring the switches interior lights, 55w rear flood, 55w rear flood, pole light, side awning light, co/propane detector. I added the co/propane detector switch so that it wouldn't beep when hauling gasoline in the camper, the detector draws current, and sometimes there is no need for the co/propane detector(when not hauling around the propane tank)

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Cleaned up the wiring with flex loom and zip ties

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Added a inverter 120V outlet in the under seat storage area

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The switches allow disconnect of all power or individual battery selection

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added another inverter 120v next to the stove by the overhead bed. Before I had to run a cord all the way across the sink to get power up in the bed area. this way there aren't any cables running across the counter. I sometimes do "work" on the laptop.

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b team:

Don't hold us in suspense.....details and pics of the solar system!!!

I'm so tempted to do the same.

davinski in seattle
 
Here are some pics of the solar power system. It uses two bp solar 80W panels and a morningstar ProStar 30 amp digital charge controller.

I designed the system to be stand alone. It is wired separate from all existing electrical systems. This allows me to connect the charge controller to the truck battery, camper batt 1, camper batt 2, or external batt (such as charging boat trolling motor battery or other vehicle). With the battery switches it can also charge all batteries at the same time.

I use a simple 2 pin trailer connector on each battery and a 15' "jumper cable" to charge external batteries.

I don't use the "load" circuit of the charge controller.

The charge controller is mounted next to the camper door. I decided here was a good spot because I can see the display from the bed or bench seat. The display automatically cycles through batt voltage, current, and load current.

The solar panels are screwed through the roof. Stainless screws and nylock nuts keep them in place. I like having things thru-bolted so they don't fall off while offroading. The bolts/nuts aren't tight, just snug due to fear of damaging the roof.

One thing that is certain is that the roof is difficult to lift and support on the way down. Just the few pounds of the panels really make a difference in roof weight. One panel is mounted on the rear part of roof the other is in the middle. I'll get some pics of the panels and roof wiring.

The solar panel wiring runs down the rear of the camper and into a 4 pin connector by the furnace. Extra wire for when the roof is raised.

I went with a fixed position on the panels because i didn't want to bother having to set another thing up when camping. keep it simple.

we haven't had good solar weather here (winter) but i have seen 8 amps out of the panels.

unlike before when i would have to run the honda EU generator the solar seems to be keeping up with the engle freezer, furnace (a hour or so per night) and other small electrical loads. I'll know more after more use but i really am happy with this modification. I like the fact that i can leave the camper for the day and come back to charged batteries where before I'd have to come back and fire up the generator for a few hours.

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B team:

that is so cool Look forward to more pictures and reports from the field. I am thinking of doing something very similar. Though, here in seattle, not really the right time to do it!

dave
 
I'm sure I'm being obtuse here but I dont understand the need for this expensive modification. I have a 300hp diesel generator sitting under the hood of my truck. When the house batt gets low I can just turn the ignition key. The system is already there. I might add an additional house batt to give me more juice before charging but I would love an explanation for the need to add solar.

I really mean no disrespect here and I have nothing but admiration for the members of this forum and all the fine craftsmanship and innovation much of which i've used and am greatful for I just dont get it.
 
Good point and for a lot of people solar isn't a smart investment. I could buy a 2000w generator for what this solar system cost so saving money isn't why i bought it.

The reason i installed solar is now i have one less thing to do while camping. The camper electric systems charges itself now. The charge controller is a smart charger and won't overcharge the batteries like the camper converter does. I like solar because it quietly charges while i'm off hiking for the day. I don't like having to run the gen/truck when i get back to camp.

Like a nuclear sub I can camp forever now. Just surfacing every now and then for supplies. :D
 
not only that BUT, WAIT! theres more!

when you get home....you neednt think about the battery....week after week....solar never sleeps....always remebering to maintain that battery.

no more goof ups. ( i goof up a lot)
no alligator clips
no chargers
no battery-minder

a battery that is always ready to go!
 
B team now your partly green!

Jay, a 300 hp diesel is a expensive charger! And it wont make any friends in camp as solar will(no noise!)Bteam you will love your solar,you will now need to make a roof lifter,which will also lower roof without trouble. Drive slow and enjoy "its the journey" lqhiker
 
Too true Les but since we only use our batt for the lights it lasts for a week easily so I guess until theres a change in the way we camp I think I'll forgo the solar. However If I decide to put it on I'll be heading for La Quinta for help.
 
thanks guys.

Nice Pvstoy.

Here are some better pics. I just put it in so I don't know how durable it's going to be. The unit isn't backlit.

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I installed this meter by connecting it to the post on the fuse panel and one of the spade clips next to it. It seemed to work fine at first, then after using the furnace and sink, it seemed to go haywire. I tried to disconnect and reconnect it, but it doesn't seem to work right. Anyone have idea why this is happening?
 
Don't know.

I have my ground wired to the ground block. The positive on the wire that gets juice when you turn on the water pump rocker on the info pannel. One on the cab dash is wired to ground and on a circuit that is hot when the engine is running.

Check the possitive and ground wire and make sure they have a good contact.
 
Thanks. I just went to play with it and it acts as if its burnt out. Nothing whatsoever. Even when I attach it directly to a 9v battery. Don't know what could have fried it either. I may get another and try that.
 

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