On my last post a week ago, I commented on learning that my camper model, being one of the earliest years of production, FWC originally used a 1" x 1" tubular roof frame, but has since gone to a 1" x 1 1/2" rectangular tubing to increase the strength.
While I had the roof setting on the camper shell, I was testing the wiring for the lights and fans inside, and actually placed both fantastic fans in place. Good thing I did, because, one of the light fixture had no continuity. More importantly though, somehow I noticed that the roof actually had sway and bounce to it. What I mean by that, is if I put additional pressure, standing out side, for example, for the additional things I might add like a solar panel, I could actually get an up and down, bouncy, springy movement from the roof. Perhaps restoring the convex bow to the roof may have contributed, but I thought, man, if I was driving on a dirt road, this thing would be bouncing up and down the whole time. Oh no!
Since I don't have a newer model roof to swap out, I was back to solving the problem at hand, if I could. Kind of a bad time to learn this now, right?
As much as I hated to, I did a re-mod to the roof. I didn't take any photos of the process, but here's the before and after shots.
I added five longitudinal inside struts, mounting them parallel to the existing struts, and connecting them with 2" screws every so often, to since them up tight. So basically, I doubled the strength of each strut. This was no easy task, as I left the roof skin intact, and had to remove the cross member EMT pipe, by sliding it out using vise grips and a hammer, as well as remove, resize, and reinstall all the short cross bracing pieces I had previously installed, remove the wiring, and drill additional holes for routing the wire adjacent to the previous channels. But......I "got r done!"
I also needed to match the arch I had previously done, since the new added tubing was straight. I did this, as before, by turning it bottom side up, placing a 2 x 4 at each end, and walking out each strut, starting in the middle, and walking to each apposing end. I think keeping a slight arch is still a good idea, just needed more strength to keep it bowed when installed.
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