Bill's FWC Hawk build.
- Thread starter billharr
- Start date
LuckyDan
Senior Member
Recover soon and well my fellow wanderer...
OP
OP
billharr
Senior Member
thanks for all the kind words. surgery went good. pin comes out in 6 to 8 week. looks like first trip may be the camper rally.
typing with one hand
LINK TO GRAFIC X-RAY
typing with one hand
LINK TO GRAFIC X-RAY
That X-Ray makes me queasy... Ouch! Glad to hear it went well! Wishing you a speedy and complete recovery!billharr said:thanks for all the kind words. surgery went good. pin comes out in 6 to 8 week. looks like first trip may be the camper rally.
typing with one hand
LINK TO GRAFIC X-RAY
Timothy McGowen
Senior Member
Sorry to hear about the injury Bill. Wishing you a speedy recovery.
Riverrunner
Senior Member
Ouch. Good to hear your ok. Did the accident happen working on the camper?
Yikes, sorry about the finger accident.
Quick question: (and feel free to keeo the answer brief since you are probably typing one handed still)...
Did FWC advise that 120-watts was enough solar for the fridge you have?
I ask because I installed the same fridge in my Granby and have a 185-watt solar with two Optima blue-tops and it does not keep up with the fridge. I can't decide if I have a bum battery, or if the fridge is just pulling too much.
Keep up the good work, it's coming along nicely.
Quick question: (and feel free to keeo the answer brief since you are probably typing one handed still)...
Did FWC advise that 120-watts was enough solar for the fridge you have?
I ask because I installed the same fridge in my Granby and have a 185-watt solar with two Optima blue-tops and it does not keep up with the fridge. I can't decide if I have a bum battery, or if the fridge is just pulling too much.
Keep up the good work, it's coming along nicely.
OP
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billharr
Senior Member
Did not ask FWC about the panel, Just looked (and PMed) at looked at what others had and some have only 85 w panels, several have 100 w. I have the two of the batteries FWC uses. Some who only say they are running the fridge 2 days on just battery. I will also be adding a .25 w exhaust fan on a switch that will cycle with the fridge. Will see how it works in a couple of months
185 watts and 2 batteries should not have a problem. You need to get a meter to see what is happening with your system.
FYI
Dr. tomorrow morning for post op to see how surgery went.
Bill
185 watts and 2 batteries should not have a problem. You need to get a meter to see what is happening with your system.
FYI
Dr. tomorrow morning for post op to see how surgery went.
Bill
RC Pilot Jim
Senior Member
Bill sorry about your finger 
. I too wish you a fast recovery.
I haven't done much on WTW since the SoCal owners rally (still havent's recorded the email list for everyone) just been too busy with family and the holidays.
Today started catching up and was enjoying your progress when I got to the "Finger" post....Take care.
-Jim
. I too wish you a fast recovery.I haven't done much on WTW since the SoCal owners rally (still havent's recorded the email list for everyone) just been too busy with family and the holidays.
Today started catching up and was enjoying your progress when I got to the "Finger" post....Take care.
-Jim
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billharr
Senior Member
BACK TO IT
I started back on the camper today. Feel like a one hand paperhanger. This is going to be slow, still can't make a fist, but I can hold things sort of. So away I go. Today I installed the fridge and the extra cooling fan. Also mounted the counter top and built a shelf for storage under the counter top.
Report up on my Blog, need to resize photos to post here.
Cooling fan
Counter top up showing storage 7" deep
Counter down, note switch to right if i want to turn off the cooling fan. It is wired to run only when fridge is running. Just not sure if I will need all the time.
Fridge wired in. Put plugs on the power and on the wires to the fan.
R-13 wrapped around the fridge.
Fridge in place, still need to trim around door and add corner moulding.
Tomorrow going to start on the heater.
Bill
I started back on the camper today. Feel like a one hand paperhanger. This is going to be slow, still can't make a fist, but I can hold things sort of. So away I go. Today I installed the fridge and the extra cooling fan. Also mounted the counter top and built a shelf for storage under the counter top.
Report up on my Blog, need to resize photos to post here.
Cooling fan
Counter top up showing storage 7" deep
Counter down, note switch to right if i want to turn off the cooling fan. It is wired to run only when fridge is running. Just not sure if I will need all the time.
Fridge wired in. Put plugs on the power and on the wires to the fan.
R-13 wrapped around the fridge.
Fridge in place, still need to trim around door and add corner moulding.
Tomorrow going to start on the heater.
Bill
Timothy McGowen
Senior Member
Bill, glad to see your back at it!
OP
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billharr
Senior Member
Slow work day after a great valentines day. I got the hole cut for the heater exhaust. Measure twice and cut once, first picture shows the small holes drilled from the inside to mark the corners.
This picture show the hole and the new 1" sq alum tube to screw into.
Next project was measuring and making a decision on just how big and high we want the seats for the dinette. We were happy with the width on the FWC dinette seats and will use that size. The wife did not like the height of the FWC dinette too tall. We used it on the last dinette, the height matches the shelf my the window and makes the bed seem wider. We never used the lower single bed and may not on the new camper. Going to go with a lower seat height. This will cost us a small amount of storage space over the water tank and batteries, but will be nice to have our feet on the floor.
Took one of the cushions apart from the front dinette that came on our shell. I had expected a piece of plywood and foam like my 2002 Hawk. But no, 2" of foam over a box frame make of 1x2 welded alum tube. This is very strong construction I am sure was used to support the 31" wide roll over bed on the front dinette. Not sure it would be very good for sleeping with only 2 inches of foam. I know I tried on my 2002 Hawk and could not sleep on it. We are going to cut down the front dinette cushions and will have to buy 4" foam for the seat cushions. I will use the roll over back cushion but need to cut down to 19 inches wide.
Below is a picture of cushion cut part way back, you can see the 2" foam and the alum tube box with 1/8" plywood on each side. I had already removed the 1/2" foam used on the sides. I cut it back and used 3/16 dia pop rivets and alum angle to put it back together.
After I cut it down I rewrapped the sides with the 1/2" foam FWC used on the sides. Ready to go to a friend and have the cushion covered.
This picture show the hole and the new 1" sq alum tube to screw into.
Next project was measuring and making a decision on just how big and high we want the seats for the dinette. We were happy with the width on the FWC dinette seats and will use that size. The wife did not like the height of the FWC dinette too tall. We used it on the last dinette, the height matches the shelf my the window and makes the bed seem wider. We never used the lower single bed and may not on the new camper. Going to go with a lower seat height. This will cost us a small amount of storage space over the water tank and batteries, but will be nice to have our feet on the floor.
Took one of the cushions apart from the front dinette that came on our shell. I had expected a piece of plywood and foam like my 2002 Hawk. But no, 2" of foam over a box frame make of 1x2 welded alum tube. This is very strong construction I am sure was used to support the 31" wide roll over bed on the front dinette. Not sure it would be very good for sleeping with only 2 inches of foam. I know I tried on my 2002 Hawk and could not sleep on it. We are going to cut down the front dinette cushions and will have to buy 4" foam for the seat cushions. I will use the roll over back cushion but need to cut down to 19 inches wide.
Below is a picture of cushion cut part way back, you can see the 2" foam and the alum tube box with 1/8" plywood on each side. I had already removed the 1/2" foam used on the sides. I cut it back and used 3/16 dia pop rivets and alum angle to put it back together.
After I cut it down I rewrapped the sides with the 1/2" foam FWC used on the sides. Ready to go to a friend and have the cushion covered.
OP
OP
billharr
Senior Member
Still plugging away, got the plugs for the solar in the bag installed and the discharge for the sink drain installed. Only one more hole to cut in the outside, drain for the fresh water tank. Was able to use the copper line to the heater, just turned the fitting. Did have to make a new line for the stove. First time I have put a flare on a copper pine in over 30 years. Got foam and fabric off to my friends to have the cushions made, should have the inside done when the cushions are ready. I did plug in the 120w solar in a bag to the camper. Turned on the 12v fridge and all my led inside lights. Voltage climbed all day when the sun was out so looks like I will have enough to run and charge the batteries.
Made a full side mock up of the cabinet under the sink. I will have two drawers on the bottom like Ski'd build. Wife is still pondering what she wants for drawers and doors in the cabinet. As of now it looks like 2 drawers 12 wide by 18 deep. one on each end of the counter. Without a hot water heater we have a lot of room. I am thinking two doors opening from the center giving a large opening. We plan on using stacking plastic containers in the cabinet. With the water tank up front and the propane in the back we will have quite a bit more storage than the old hawk.
Tomorrow I am off to Valley Lumber to have the four drawers made. Wife won't let me near the table saw and I am not a cabinet maker. May cost a little extra but they drawers will be square and made right.
Will try to get pictures up in the next post.
Made a full side mock up of the cabinet under the sink. I will have two drawers on the bottom like Ski'd build. Wife is still pondering what she wants for drawers and doors in the cabinet. As of now it looks like 2 drawers 12 wide by 18 deep. one on each end of the counter. Without a hot water heater we have a lot of room. I am thinking two doors opening from the center giving a large opening. We plan on using stacking plastic containers in the cabinet. With the water tank up front and the propane in the back we will have quite a bit more storage than the old hawk.
Tomorrow I am off to Valley Lumber to have the four drawers made. Wife won't let me near the table saw and I am not a cabinet maker. May cost a little extra but they drawers will be square and made right.
Will try to get pictures up in the next post.
OP
OP
billharr
Senior Member
After more pondering on the cabinet layout I am having 5 drawers made, two on the top left and one on the top right. Plus the two below like Ski's. We are going for more storage on our build. Got the smaller fridge as it was bigger than the old one in our 2002 Hawk and allowed storage above. The 3 drawers will be 18" deep and have full extension sliders. The lower two drawers will be asymmetrical with one larger so our pots will fit. Going to do something difference with the two doors in the cabinet. Opening will be 11"x32". A 16" wide door is just too big to open and move around in the camper. I am going to put the hinges on the bottom and open down.
Got started on the cabinet over the water tank and got the pump and 110v breaker mounted. Moved the hinges on the access doors under the side cabinet. This was to give clearance under the door for the fresh water drain hose. One more hole to cut in the outside of the camper the hole for the drain valve.
Yes I took pictures this time.
Right side solar plug
Left side solar plug with sink drain below. Not I put the drain to the front of the camper to allow easy camper loading and hooking to my gray water tank. Not a lot of room in the 2005 Tundra.
Pump and 110v breaker.
Start of front cabinet over the water tank.
New hinge location on access doors.
Got started on the cabinet over the water tank and got the pump and 110v breaker mounted. Moved the hinges on the access doors under the side cabinet. This was to give clearance under the door for the fresh water drain hose. One more hole to cut in the outside of the camper the hole for the drain valve.
Yes I took pictures this time.
Right side solar plug
Left side solar plug with sink drain below. Not I put the drain to the front of the camper to allow easy camper loading and hooking to my gray water tank. Not a lot of room in the 2005 Tundra.
Pump and 110v breaker.
Start of front cabinet over the water tank.
New hinge location on access doors.
I've noticed the drawers on our new camper only go back about 8".
Can't get 18" out of them but plenty of room to make them longer and the slides go all the way back. Not sure why FWC does that??? Making new drawers is absolutely on my mod list but, like you, I am not a cabinet maker. Be interested to know what having it done costs.ntsqd
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There is some precedent for a downward opening door. It is hard to see in this pic, but the lowest door does open down. With my wife being 5'0" I've pondered making it more robust so that she can use it as an elevated standing platform.
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billharr
Senior Member
The drawers were $35 each at the cabinet shop. Not sure I could buy the material for that much less, and they done right. The slides are not included They were another $40.00 and the shop mounted them for me. Is FWC still using the slides that have the small plastic hanger in the back of the drawer or are they using full ball bearing slides as shown in the pictures below?Ted said:I've noticed the drawers on our new camper only go back about 8".
Pictures of the work the cabinet shop does. I had a garbage compactor and had them build a cabinet to replace it. They matched my cabinets from the 70's
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