BluesideUp Alaskan Project

[Manfred65]

I agree with you esp. with the steel between bumper and driver. There is another issue on european light trucks like the Sprinter.
There is very less rust protection because these trucks are sold for commercial use. The companies have the possibility of depreciation over 5 years of use to lower their taxes. Than the truck is worth 1 Euro in the books and is sold. Mercedes is not interested in the second user because they want to sell new trucks. Buying a used sprinter in Europe with lots of salty roads in winter is a gamble like russian roulette. You have to do lots of rust protection or repairs before using it as a camper for a longer time. This is not the quality i expect from Mercedes Benz ! I drove a 6,5 ton Coach MB Sprinter 616 Dually with 156 HP CommonRail Turbo Diesel for work. The CommonRail-Pump broke down at 130.000 km. It was a few thousand bucks to fix this. Earlier Sprinters ran 500.000 kms without these problems.
So i also prefer American Steel like an V8 between the bumper and us and I will do all for rust protection to use the truck for long years!

My wife and me we camp without too much gear. But we need the possibility of showering and toilette wherever we go.
There are remote areas also in the small crowded europe and also after a city sightseeing with all the dust its nice to have this comfort.
So i think i´ll order my Alaskan with an empty rear right corner to install the complete "bathroom" by myself for our needs.
Length depends on the truck we choose by the time. 8-8,5´on a shortbed and 10ft on a longbed.

 

[BluesideUp]

One truck I was very interested in was an Isuzu 4 x 4 diesel commercial with a flatbed and custom Alaskan non cab over but once more I had the fear, like that recent video of a Russian driver flying out of the front windshield in a head on.

I have my eye on a Ranch Hand front bumper

 

[Manfred65]

To use a Truck with the cab over the engine it must be a real big one like the Mercedes Benz Atego.( 7 tons and up ) To sit high enough that a car or a Pickuptruck can hit you head on and you and your feet are safe ! Every smaller truck like Fuso, Nissan, Toyotas are dangerous for life!

And the engines are not worth to think about on longer trips. Less Power, less efficiency and very noisy. I drove lots of different trucks the last months while transfering Trucks of all brands and sizes all over Europe. The Big Rigs from 400 HP and up are a pleasure to drive. You dont hear the engine inside the cabin. It´s like in an electric train: Only Power!! But the Trucks from 15 tons and below are real hard work for body, ears and soul!
Therefore i prefer an American Pickup as a base for my camper because an Mercedes Actros 1844 or Volvo FH is too heavy, too high and too expensive for me. ( btw: a Single Tractor Mercedes 1844 with all the emmission crap like urea and DPF without load gets real unbelievable 14 mpg says the lie-o-meter. )

 

[Rusty]

Alaskan used to have pretty reasonable deals with pickups and the camper in combination....it wasn't much over cost for the pickup. I don't know the taxes for import but it may be worth a look. Maybe if you came over and camped for a while it could offer a better return tax situation.

It used to be, if we wanted to take a trip to Europe, buy a car and ship it back from Europe...the taxes were less if we drove it around for a month or so before shipping. It became a used vehicle rather than a new one.

There are some nice diesels out there right now with all the quiet cabs, insulation, bells and whistles....might be tempting...i'm just saying

Dodge and Cummins diesel have a pretty good thing going right now. alot of iron between you and the oncoming is always a good feeling

 

[BluesideUp]

Thats a very good point Rusty. I found a sweet spot between the 2013 & 2014 models so I was able to save about $7,500 since they wanted to move 2013 models out. Also my truck, which had been driven to a trade show had 500 miles on it. You might want to see if a better deal for export can be found in Canada.
I went in to have the Firestone airbags installed but they had the wrong mounting brackets, which are being shipped overnight so I will head back into the shop on Wednesday.
It took 3 months for the Bilstein order to come in which I thought was crazy but all 4 are installed. The difference on the front end is visible and the steering is lighter, better ride as well.

.

 

[Rusty]

You won't believe the difference when the bags are on....taking corners at 70+ is much like driving a car rather than a truck with a lump on the back

 

[BluesideUp]

That's how I feel now and my hitch guard rail is 12" off the ground. The truck sort of squats down at the rear

 

[Rusty]

I'm considering installing a fill in spacer in between the standard springs and your overloads?....it engages the overloads almost immediately. A friend has installed a set......he has a one ton dually as well...and carry's a rather large bigfoot camper...without the camper he has 1/2" clearance to the standard set of springs rather than 2 1/2"

 

[Manfred65]

Sounds like the install of Tork-Lift Stable-Load ?

 

[BluesideUp]

I looked at a helper spring or spacer but there is a conflict with air bags. Mine are Firestone Ride Rite Air Helper Springs rated at 5,000 lbs. However we have run into a clearance problem between the air bag and tire sidewall.
Firestone calls for an 8" clearance and we have 7 1/4 and will have to insert a 1" spacer to move the Dually's outboard.
The 1st picture is pre-inflation before the air lines were added. The 2nd aired up.
Vertical measurements at the hitch pre install were 12" and 14.5 post install, expansion of the airbag is 4.5" and should be 5.5"minimum.
While Firestone state these bags are for a 3500 HD they are not so I am not sure how I am going to proceed
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[BluesideUp]

After discussion with truck/trailer equipment company that did install the air bags were removed and they no charged me for the Bilstein shocks and install plus an air horn to compensate for the inconvenience.
I re-weighed truck which came in 1400 lbs under max weight of 13,300 at 11,900 with 3,900 on front axle and 8,000 on rear. My son has a speed shop so I will see what alternatives I have.
I ended up checking in with Bryan who suggested Super Springs. I talked to their tech support.
It turns out that their SSA24 only fits commercial chassis cab trucks which mine is. It will take out the sag, add 4,000 lbs rear axle capability and lift the chassis 4". I ordered it on Amazon.
When one door closes another opens.

 

[BluesideUp]

1st Pic. Installed SuperSpring Kit but I need to dial it back to the first bolt hole.

2nd Pic. Adjusted both rear shackles to first bolt hole but left the front on the second and the ride softened up

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[BluesideUp]

Installed Super Truss 48" extension which has a 1,200 lbs max tongue weight. Rather than install their hitch which has a lower capacity than mine I added a second receiver to accommodate the extension.

The max combined truck / trailer weight with a 4.10 rear end is 20,500. So the capacity is there if I elect to get a toy or what to tow.

Installed 10K capacity hitch which provides a good safety margin for the 7,300 lb max trailer weight but have to remain conscious of a reduced departure angle

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[Rusty]

That should tow a Grady White nicely

that's quite the rig...now you need to go camping....seriously

 

[BluesideUp]

Camping ? What's that? Yeah I know I know. Personal issues keeping me close to home, hopefully they will be resolved soon. As far as rig just the solar panels remain and no more boats for me, had a 27' Tiara which was fun

 

[Rusty]

Whittle the length down to a 20-22' GW and you're in business ....

I'm dealing with family now as well....ugh

 

[BluesideUp]

LOL. Thats why I got a dog. always happy to see me, wants to play all the time never any sass.

Mine was eye surgery to get rid of a cataract in the right eye, 2 months from start to finish.

Put the winch ready Ranchhand guard on the front, exterior finished. Moving to mount the solar and install the house battery bank.

I found a blog from Handyman Bob on Solar thru WTW which has been the most informative stuff on what to do and what not to do. http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com

He was an electrical engineer who re-wired his 5th wheel solar three times before he got it right. He boondocked for 12 years without a generator

Will modify the Pex next week to heat from center out and convert the heater into a space heater with copper fins and a couple of small fans.

I will need it as I am planning a run to AK in July and letting the snow chase me south

The beat goes on.

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[Rusty]

you put that guard on with a crane I'm assuming....what a monster

that alone would have offset the rear end drag issue....LOL

Alaska is on my bucket list too...should make plans while the body is co-operating with the mind

 

[BluesideUp]

Yup. 300 Lbs but it will hold a 15,000 lb. Warn Winch and probably take out a cow as well

 

[BluesideUp]

Got a 4 battery capable tray fabricated since I could not find any solid metal battery for my house battery system.
Right now just the first house battery is on line and takes its charge from the alternator.
Once the solar system is installed the 2 house batteries will be paralleled and segregated from the truck system by a 30 amp breaker.
First picture was the pre-drilling of 6 holes for the rack through the flat bed, then it was painted and installed.
I intentionally mounted the battery terminals to the inboard and once paralleled and an electrical box for the solar charger and shunt for the TriMetric battery monitor is installed I will fabricate a safety cover
All batteries, truck main, aux & house are Odyssey 1220's.



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