I am starting to really dislike my camper solar

[hoyden]

Seeing as you've bought a meter you might want to wait and get some data re fridge energy consumption. Some readers here may then provide a comparison from their own experience. I think I have seen some posts about making the oem fridge more efficient - might save you from buying more solar, IDK.

Separator or charger (DC to DC)? think I've read on here some Toyota alternators may have difficulties charging house batteries in some instances.

Yep, that's the plan - now I have tools to really see where my energy is getting used.

Sorry - I wasn't clear - currently, my battery separator isn't working. Power is coming in from the truck, but not making it to the camper batteries. I do want my truck to charge camper batteries while I'm driving. I got a new separator today.

 

[Vic Harder]

which separator did you get?

 

[hoyden]

This one: https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-America-ACR-160-Automatic-Isolator/dp/B00HHRVMII

 

[craig333]

We keep our fridge on 2 in the winter and 3 in the summer. Any colder then 3 and salad stuff freezes. I have the FWC installed Dometic 2 way.

Dawn I'm kind of perplexed you have to keep your frig on 6. Is it a factory installed frig?

Spot on Craig, the separator is not required if you don't plan on using the vehicle to charge camper batteries. If you do use the truck for charging and do not install a separator, it is only a matter of time your truck will fail to start.

We've been using Blue Seas separators (both automatic and manual) in electrical rigging on fishing boats for many, many years. It's the only way to go separation electrical system IMO. Glad to see FWC now using Blue Seas rather than the previous brand.

Perhaps if you're using the alternator as your only charging source.

 

[hoyden]

Perhaps if you're using the alternator as your only charging source.

? Eh? I have solar and two batteries in camper.

I /haven't/ been using truck to power camper anything because the separator wasn't working (as we discovered last night)

 

[CougarCouple]

Hi There.
Sounds like y’all are making good progress on the mystery of the missing electrons.
Regarding your refrigerator, in my mind having to turn the controller up to keep the refrigerator at the temperature you need. The loads are different all things being the same. Sounds like now you can track power consumption. Comparing yours to others with the same model might identify the difference. Also tracking how long it takes to get your box down to temp vs others. Might be the low voltage does not allow the refrigerator controller to function properly.
Problem might not be electrical, bad gasket, poorly insulated box during manufacturing.
It will be interesting to find out what it is and I’d bet your new charge controller will help to identify.

Russ

 

[hoyden]

Gotta figure out where to mount the new charge controller! It's not small.

I've wondered if the fridge has something wrong with it considering others with same fridge don't seem to have to turn it up so high. This was also something I wondered about soon after I got my camper. Hm.
Tracking it all down...

 

[Vic Harder]

Gotta figure out where to mount the new charge controller! It's not small.

As close to the batteries as possible.
Why? Losses before the controller are "adjusted" for when it does the power conversion. It then outputs exactly what the batteries need for maximal charging. You don't want that to get changed by wires that are too long or too thin. I mounted mine IN the battery box. It looks like you have some space in box as well, over the batteries, to put in a piece of 3/8" plywood and mount the controller to that. I put mine on the side, but top is fine too.

 

[pvstoy]

Hoyden I have a 2015 hawk flatbed with dometic 130 liter D.C. Refrigerator. I run this one between 5 and 6 on the dial. It draws between 4 to 5 amps. I do want to check out the side and top insulation as inside the camper on either side I can see daylight to the outside. I'm fine with this model as it has a bigger freezer than the new ones FWC is installing, 3 half gallons of ice cream made a Tahoe Rim Trail work camp workers very happy at dinner.

 

[PaulT]

That Samlex battery separator has a significant advantage over the old one. Energized or not, it uses a smaller amount of current for its own operation.

The old one used almost 1 amp when energized for the relay coil. If the coil were energized without connecting to the truck alternator because it had failed, it could pull down the camper battery by consuming upwards of 24 amp-hrs per day.

Hang in there Dawn, progress is happening.

Paul

 

[CougarCouple]

This is the screen shot of what the Thornwave Bluetooth Smart Battery Monitor. Looks like. Unfortunately there wasn’t any load no clouds 150 watt panel 2 79ah batteries, truck not running.

 

[craig333]

Dawn, do you have a fan on your fridge? Inadequate ventilation will cause them to overheat and use more energy.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Does your camper have both an upper and lower exterior refrigerator vent ?

 

[hoyden]

Dawn, do you have a fan on your fridge? Inadequate ventilation will cause them to overheat and use more energy.

It should have one - came with my camper build.

Does your camper have both an upper and lower exterior refrigerator vent ?

It does.
If you mean the exterior of where fridge is, with two panels on the outside that are slatted.

 

[PaulT]

Dawn, do you have a fan on your fridge? Inadequate ventilation will cause them to overheat and use more energy.

Unlikely with a compressor fridge unless you specified one. On my 2014 Hawk, the fridge fan switch was missing in the row of 4 switches. I ordered a switch from FWC, removed the blank place holder & hooked up the two wires coiled up behind the switch panel. My wires were a blue pair. Behind the
Fridge was the other end iof the fan wires near the upper louvers which is how I knew the wire color to look for behind the switch panel.

I mounted a 2” 12v fan I bought at Fry’s that was rated at 50 cfm. That replaces all the air behind the fridge several times/min. I used wire ties to attach the fan to the louvers. With the fridge running, turning on the fan results in noticeably more warm air exiting from the louvers.
The fridge seems to run less frequently but I don’t have a good way to measure it.

Paul

 

[Advmoto18]

Dawn...

As Vic mentioned, you always want the controller close to the batteries as possible. Also, use the largest gauge wire gauge the controller can accept.

Great info Paul about the fan. Never thought about that being an issue. I wasn't even aware that the fan was an option. I have a '15 Hawk and must have missed it on the options list.

 

[billharr]

Have you done the DOLLAR TEST on your fridge door? Mine was running too much and I found the door was not sealing.

Put a dollar bill on the seal close the door and you should not be able to pull the dollar bill out without using some force. If it comes out easy you need to adjust the door.

Look for simple first.

 

[hoyden]

I'll check all those fridge-related things!

Also, plugged in to shore power yesterday and it was reading 14.2. This morning, its reading 13.7 . Is that normal for while plugged in?

 

[CougarCouple]

Hi Good Morning Dawn.
I can’t say it’s normal because I don’t ever plug into shore power. But sure does look good, based on the charging numbers others have posted. The folks here are awesome to say the least.
Have a great day!

Russ

 

[craig333]

Thats what the IOTA should be doing.