Ultimate Solar Thread

I'm sure this is here somewhere but forgive me, and save me the trouble of keywords! What size / type of screw would be ideal for mounting my panel to the roof? I am using Z brackets which are only as thick as a washer, so length of screw will not be affected much. It's install time soon!

I'm interested in the answer to this question, too -- in fact, for the very same model of panel as GG has.
(mostly interested in non-secure, non-tamperproof attachment)

Anyone have input for someone like me who doesn't know (without research) how to pick the correct screw? I know there are lots of very-handy hardware guys on this site.
smile.gif


A bit worried about finding the roof frame but I'm sure all will become clear soon.
I assume the screws that hold down the roof-skin show us where the frame is.
 
My guess is #10 3/4-1" stainless self tapping screws, as recommended for the roof lifters as well. They should have plenty of bite into the roof frame, and I imagine a pilot hole would be a good idea.

Another thought as I was laying out my work station tonight. If i use 2 Z brackets on each end of the panel, leaving the long sides unsupported, will there be an issue with flex and/or strength? I think it should be fine based on the rigid frame but if anyone cares to give advice I'm all ears!
 
#8 or #10 x 3/4 self drilling screws would be just fine. They tend to give a tighter hold rather than pre-drilling, since the drill size is just right.

You MUST find the frame tube for mounting. To do that may require that a piece of angle or sq. tubing be added between the roof and the panel. (I know, not what you want to hear...) May help to see pics of others mounting.

Seal everything well with a good RTV product.

That is a large panel (2x5). I believe I would use 2 brackets on the short sides and two on long sides, 8 total.
At 27#'s, you will feel it when lifting the top.

~DR
 
#8 or #10 x 3/4 self drilling screws would be just fine. They tend to give a tighter hold rather than pre-drilling, since the drill size is just right.

Since I'm kinda ignorant in this area, I'll ask: The self-tapping/drilling screws are able to penetrate the aluminum frame without pre-drilling?
I've used them in wood but didn't know that they'd work in harder stuff without help.
Thanks. :)
 
Mark,

They are known as Tek screws.
They will drill thru steel and alum as the drill point is hardened. Note: These will not work in wood (there is also a self-tapping screw that has a pointy tip).

There are a variety of head types-but I prefer the Phillips. Easy to use with a power drill.

Since the drill point is matched for the threads, they fit nice and tight. Sometimes, I will drill a small pilot hole for precise location measurements.

Most hardware stores, Homer Depot and Lowes will have them.

Self drilling screw.jpg
 
Mark,
They are known as Tek screws.
They will drill thru steel and alum as the drill point is hardened. Note: These will not work in wood (there is also a self-tapping screw that has a pointy tip).
There are a variety of head types-but I prefer the Phillips. Easy to use with a power drill.
Since the drill point is matched for the threads, they fit nice and tight. Sometimes, I will drill a small pilot hole for precise location measurements.
Most hardware stores, Homer Depot and Lowes will have them.
View attachment 13947

Thank you very much!
I've bought quite a bit of home-improvement stuff at Home Depot and Lowes, but I recently discovered the well-stocked Ace Hardware store. Not as much total stuff as those big-box guys, but you can buy single screws, nuts, bolts from their bulk bins -- very handy! I was able to by 3 odd little sheet-metal screws to replace ones that fell out of my Wave 6 and went missing (and now using Loctite to keep the new ones in), rather than buying a life-time supply from the big guys.
biggrin.gif

Thanks, again, D.R.
 
I assume the screws that hold down the roof-skin show us where the frame is.


I have a fancy seamless / screwless roof. Not quite so simple.
 
Side note - I just installed my system over the last few weeks - I needed WAY more wire than I thought I would need. My camper was not pre-wired so I needed everything, and my battery is under the front couch seat. I used almost 40' of wire!! :(

I also came to the conclusion that there is no easy way to route the wires from the roof to the front couch! Yikes, what a mess.... There is just NO room to route a wire in the wall, under, behind, through anything in my camper.

But it does work awesome! I'm pretty sure I will not need to ever plug my camper in for regular usage again.
 
Great (almost overwhelming) information. So let me stir the pot a bit more...

I ordered a new Hawk yesterday from Chris in Denver. The solar question came up. Me being old school I am tempted to take the 1,000 bucks for the FWC solar installed option and put it toward a 2,000 watt Honda invertor generator that I can occasionally run if needed through the shore power connection to top off the batteries. (We are getting two auxiliary ones.) BTW, the genny can ride up front in the Crew Cab since it will normally just be Sioux and I. (It weighs 50# dry.)

However, to avoid the "dreaded-looking-for-the-wire-in-the-future" problem Chris suggested we order the 50.00 installed plug for solar. NOW for my question. It can be installed on the back camper wall for use with a portable solar panel or on top if I want to install a permanent unit. I chose the wall mount but am now racked by agonizing doubts. :) Your thoughts please?

Steve
 
This kind of wiring cannot be done after the build.

So if you are truly conflicted....have them do both.

Wire to the roof and terminate with a waterproof plug.....and wire to the shower panel and terminate with a plug. Make sure they label the wires where they terminate under the cabinets.

That way you are covered for both.

In the future you may wish to start out with a permanent panel on the roof and augment that with a small portable panel.
 
Anybody know how to easily locate the aluminum roof beams on the new seamless roof? If I knew how far they space them I could measure off the Yak tracks they installed, but not sure about the beams perpendicular.
 
Re: my prev post- -
Looks like I can easily find the roof beams on the seamless FWC roof by going inside the camper. The wood strips that are attached to the ceiling of the camper are apparently where the roof beams are. They aren't spaced necessarily evenly, but I can measure them inside and transfer the measurements to the roof.
 
Re: my prev post- -
Looks like I can easily find the roof beams on the seamless FWC roof by going inside the camper. The wood strips that are attached to the ceiling of the camper are apparently where the roof beams are. They aren't spaced necessarily evenly, but I can measure them inside and transfer the measurements to the roof.


Good thinking, thanks.
 
Mark,

They are known as Tek screws.
They will drill thru steel and alum as the drill point is hardened. Note: These will not work in wood (there is also a self-tapping screw that has a pointy tip).

There are a variety of head types-but I prefer the Phillips. Easy to use with a power drill.

Since the drill point is matched for the threads, they fit nice and tight. Sometimes, I will drill a small pilot hole for precise location measurements.

Most hardware stores, Homer Depot and Lowes will have them.

View attachment 13947


Having a hard time finding these in stainless! Home Depot is useless for quality hardware these days. My small town is limited as well.
 
BC has to have some sort of mcmaster/grainger type supplier.


Yep we do, just a matter of getting to one and trying to buy in non-bulk quantities. Promised my lady to have all the mods done by the 18th when we roll out and so I shall.
 
Where are folks mounting their charge controllers in the FWC? I want to get a MPPT controller, but it requires a good amount of air space around it, so I think mounting it down in the battery compartment somewhere is out, especially since there's not much room anyways with two batteries. I have a Hawk, and am thinking of mounting it on the wall behind the sofa. What are others doing? Sounds like keeping it near the battery bank is a must since the battery cable from the charge controller should be as short as possible.
 
Where are folks mounting their charge controllers in the FWC?

I have mine mounted as shown in the photo below, lower-right.
I've since switched to a different MPPT controller, but it's mounted in the same place as the one shown here.

gallery_2431_103_52034.jpg
 
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